Anyone know what 'Error code 143 - Damping Adjustment Valve' might be?
#1
AutoX
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Norcal
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anyone know what 'Error code 143 - Damping Adjustment Valve' might be?
Got the 'Air Suspension Faulty Workshop' display coming on for the last couple weeks. The screen clears with every restart, but error comes up within a couple seconds of driving.
Pulled the error code with a Durametric and it reads code 143 'damping adjustment valve', location right front.
I pulled the front passenger wheel off and disconnected/cleaned/reconnected all the electrical connectors in the wheel well and struts location. The error still comes up.
Any ideas on where else to look and to resolve this error?
tia
Will
2004 CTT
South Bay Area, CA
Pulled the error code with a Durametric and it reads code 143 'damping adjustment valve', location right front.
I pulled the front passenger wheel off and disconnected/cleaned/reconnected all the electrical connectors in the wheel well and struts location. The error still comes up.
Any ideas on where else to look and to resolve this error?
tia
Will
2004 CTT
South Bay Area, CA
#2
AutoX
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Norcal
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also forgot to note - don't know if this is related since this just started tonight and the Air Suspension fault has been occurring for the last couple/few weeks...
Electrical gremlins abound today. While driving home the radio and HVAC cut out. Then discovered windows, door, turn signals, interior lights, alarm, HVAC, door locks, side mirror controls, height level controls, park assist, and seat convenience controls stopped working. Strangely the radio could be turned back on...but nothing else. Car still drives fine, but with so much of the electrical system in whack can't do much safely or even lock/unlock the doors/windows.
Checked by pulling every fuse in all 3 fuse boxes. All fine. Measured voltages at fuse locations for some of the affected systems like the door locking and window circuits...all fine with 12v readings at the fuses. So there's power, but wondering what might be a common harness/system that might account for this across the board anomaly? Even have tested the battery load + alternator load...all fine. Have the car hooked up to a charger for the evening to see if that makes a difference in the morning (tried after a quick 10min charge...no change).
Guess will call the stealer at Stevens Creek Porsche in the morning to possibly schedule a cash extraction appointment :-(
Electrical gremlins abound today. While driving home the radio and HVAC cut out. Then discovered windows, door, turn signals, interior lights, alarm, HVAC, door locks, side mirror controls, height level controls, park assist, and seat convenience controls stopped working. Strangely the radio could be turned back on...but nothing else. Car still drives fine, but with so much of the electrical system in whack can't do much safely or even lock/unlock the doors/windows.
Checked by pulling every fuse in all 3 fuse boxes. All fine. Measured voltages at fuse locations for some of the affected systems like the door locking and window circuits...all fine with 12v readings at the fuses. So there's power, but wondering what might be a common harness/system that might account for this across the board anomaly? Even have tested the battery load + alternator load...all fine. Have the car hooked up to a charger for the evening to see if that makes a difference in the morning (tried after a quick 10min charge...no change).
Guess will call the stealer at Stevens Creek Porsche in the morning to possibly schedule a cash extraction appointment :-(
#4
Three Wheelin'
$400-ish for a battery? Is that what you are saying Scott? Interstate has the correct battery for the Cayenne for about $160 (actually a little more reserve capacity than OEM) and I have tried Costco yet. Consumer reports rated Costco #1 and Interstate #3 out of about 10 battery suppliers. I think the Sears Diehard was #2.
#6
The OP mentioned taking to the dealer for diagnostics so I was basing my estimate on the battery $250 and about 1 - 1.25 hours of labor to change it.
I forgot tax so it will probably be higher.
I forgot tax so it will probably be higher.
#7
AutoX
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Norcal
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I took the battery load readings from under the hood at the jump points. So maybe it read the auxillary battery from the trunk. I did change out the driver seat battery about 8 months ago with a unit from Kragen's auto parts (same ampere ratings etc)...i guess I'll pop the seat later today to get a direct reading from the seat battery which understand as supplying power for 'accessories'.
thx all!
thx all!
Trending Topics
#9
AutoX
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Norcal
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well got the front/rear batteries both swapped out for a set of Interstate's. The front one Interstate was a couple inches shorter than original, but the specs lined up and just shimmed with some spacers. Electrical gremlins are all gone and all the accessories work again...except for the Air Suspension Workshop Faulty error.
Still get the suspension error still...so back to square one on that fault.
Still get the suspension error still...so back to square one on that fault.
#10
Advanced
Posted in another similar thread but posting here as well to see if you had success sorting the issue. I have the same issue but fault code for right rear (145). Here's the the diagnostic note from my mechanic:
#11
Is this the bleed valves on the air suspension? They get corroded, and blocked. Cost about $100, and normally are the cause of Suspension faults. Is the car level, or slightly off on one corner? Is it slow to go up or down?
#12
Advanced
The car has been off at one corner (right rear) but now the whole back end is off compared to the front.
#14
Advanced
I would bet money you need to replace one (or both) of these, on the back : https://aerosus.com/porsche/cayenne-...alve-rear.html
#15
It was not something I tackled.. Mainly because I think safe / convenient access to the valve needs you to suspend the car. But tbh I did not look into it that much.
My indie did it (coincidentally on my 2004 CTT) during a normal service, and it didn't add that much over the parts. I bought two valves. He replaced one, but about 6 months later the one I had not replaced needed doing too.
I think these older suspension systems are more prone to corrosion build up if moisture gets into the system.
Prior to all this I had tried most of the things you did. People kept saying it was the battery. I even serviced the compressor. Which is a fun DIY job. For me the fault was intermittent, gradually getting more frequent.
Occasionally the car would level ok... and sometimes it would warn me after driving for a few minutes. Other times it was just broken and the car would be trying to self level when stopped at traffic lights and all kinds of things.
My indie did it (coincidentally on my 2004 CTT) during a normal service, and it didn't add that much over the parts. I bought two valves. He replaced one, but about 6 months later the one I had not replaced needed doing too.
I think these older suspension systems are more prone to corrosion build up if moisture gets into the system.
Prior to all this I had tried most of the things you did. People kept saying it was the battery. I even serviced the compressor. Which is a fun DIY job. For me the fault was intermittent, gradually getting more frequent.
Occasionally the car would level ok... and sometimes it would warn me after driving for a few minutes. Other times it was just broken and the car would be trying to self level when stopped at traffic lights and all kinds of things.