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Dealership (TRULY a stealership in this instance) want $1080 to replace my rear inner door deal. They are at $225 hour for labor, so how they are calculating this to be a 4 hour job is beyond me, I cannot fathom it.
I intend to do it myself, has anyone done it before? Is THIS the part I need? Its the rubber seal that attaches to the body that the door shuts against. Apparently not covered by warranty.
Any tips, or corrections on part number would be greatly appreciated
There's actually quite a few panels that need to be removed to complete... you 'may' be able to get bu without removing them all , but then risk breakage.
here's another solution - buy a used seal off ebay and simply 'splice' or 'graft' in the piece you need. a little silicon on each end will seal... suggest making any incisions above the 90 degree turn to avoid leaks
Last edited by huskeric; May 11, 2024 at 10:35 PM.
Do you have a second dealership in town to look at the car? I took my car into the dealer this past week because I noticed a similar problem: points of tear along the rubber seal. The part and the replacement labor were both covered by warranty.
Do you have a second dealership in town to look at the car? I took my car into the dealer this past week because I noticed a similar problem: points of tear along the rubber seal. The part and the replacement labor were both covered by warranty.
Are you still in the new warranty or CPO? One of my seals is doing the same thing and its going to the dealer tomorrow for the roof creaking issue.
I'm 1 year into the CPO. Everything I have brought the car in for has been covered on warranty.
Also, I got the creaking frame fixed---it needed some lube.
Thanks. The creaking roof is a known issue with a TSB, but the SA told me they wouldn't CPO it since nothing is actually broken. It requires dropping the headliner so it's a ton of labor to lube those areas. However, after talking to the service manager, he said it was not best practice to deny warranty without actually seeing the vehicle, so he offered to take it in to look at it. They are picking it up this afternoon. He insinuated that if it was indeed the TSBed issue he could have wiggle room since I just purchased the car there so we will see. I will have them look at this seal as well. If nothing else, his soft rubber can usually be fused together pretty well with super glue if you are very careful. We make our own o-rings at work, and super glue solvent welds a lot of plastic and rubber products. Mine is maybe half as bad as your torn seal.
The service manual excerpt that was previously posted is for a 970. I would have to look at my car closer to see if the headliner needs to be dropped in that area on a 971. I've never seen a door seal that needed that much disassembly to remove but then again this is my first European car... Most seals are either held by clips or interference fitted over the pinch welded panel edge. If you find any FSM pages to do this for a 971 please share. If the warranty is denied I will likely just do it myself.
Do you have a second dealership in town to look at the car? I took my car into the dealer this past week because I noticed a similar problem: points of tear along the rubber seal. The part and the replacement labor were both covered by warranty.
Same here - MY '22 - the driver side had a deep serration like the part of the doctor bill that you tear off to mail the check - and it worked just like that and started to tear exactly the way yours is pictured. The dealer at first balked, saying I must have kicked it getting in and out of the car (reasonable considering where it is). I had them compare it to the passenger side where the serration is much less deep and therefore stronger. I think it is a factory defect and the dealer eventually relented and replaced under warranty.
Same here - MY '22 - the driver side had a deep serration like the part of the doctor bill that you tear off to mail the check - and it worked just like that and started to tear exactly the way yours is pictured. The dealer at first balked, saying I must have kicked it getting in and out of the car (reasonable considering where it is). I had them compare it to the passenger side where the serration is much less deep and therefore stronger. I think it is a factory defect and the dealer eventually relented and replaced under warranty.
yes. the serration is an excellent description and is exactly what I was seeing.
I asked my dealer to look at this while it was there for the roof creaking issue. They had to facetime me to see what I was talking about. Later on I was told they found two more torn seals and would be replacing them too.
My car is under warranty, and there is another dealer I can take it to - it would be my first time going there for service, and this is my 2nd Porsche that I've had serviced at my dealer - they replaced my fault ashtray as a courtesy, but I think it was too much labor to comp me on the seal. I'm still out $3800 from replacing the coolant pipe in my Cayenne Turbo, and waiting for the class action on that one to get settled - so I don't think I have much goodwill at the dealership level.
100% my seal is torn because I have two kids getting out that side of the car at drop off, I'm going to try and lay a thin strip of flex seal tape over the tear and just live with it.
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Replacing the inner real door seal
