jeffpanamara

My wife loves her loaded 50,000 mile 2015 Panamera Turbo with yachting mahogany wood, full leather, sport exhaust etc. She says she does not get tired of the car and wants to keep it as long as possible but our independent mechanic warned us that we are at the age where expensive things start to go wrong. What are some of the big repairs and costs (using an independent) we might expect going forward? Is the dual clutch transmission an issue? Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated since she would love to keep it but doesn't want to be foolish.

E39Nutz

Assuming your car is paid off. New car payments vs. putting that money on maintenance (which will not be as much). It’s not easy to find a car that one enjoys these days. New ones are loaded with electronics that makes it so much harder to fix.

techrider1

It's a very reliable car with exceptional build quality. That said here are some maintenance items to be aware of.

Every 10 years or 120k miles you should:
- full PDK service (pan and fluid)
- front air struts (bags only)
- battery
- control arms
- PDCC reservoir (if equipped)

Duc Hunter

I would say keep it. They are know to be very reliable. I own a 2013 Turbo as well, 85k miles on it. A few things to remember, and look out for are:

• You should ALWAYS check factory parts prices at a place like Gaudin Porsche Parts, Suncoast Porsche Parts, Sunset, Porsche, etc. You will find you save big time over what Dealers will typically charge you. Most local dealers will price match these guys, as they are also Porsche clears. get your parts list from your Indy or dealer, build a shopping cart at one of the sites above and then have the cleared match. Sometimes prices are 50% off the dealers standard price.
• Rear hatch lifts tend to die. The hatch will start pausing on teh way up or down.
• Air springs will dies. When you drive the car after it sits over night it will be sagged down. The key here is don’t let it go for a long time. These systems work on nitrogen, which prevents moisture from getting in the system. When you get a leak the system will bring air in to help, but the moisture that also comes in will eat the seals over time. So also make sure your Indy Mech uses nitrogen the charge the system if/when it needs work. Lastly, a leaky air suspension system means the compressor works a lot harder, and will dies.
• CHANGE THE FUEL VAPOR VALVE EVERY 60K MILES!!!!! This is a must. Panamera turbos and Cayenne Turbos have this issue. If it dies the intake manifold can explode. This can just damage the intake, all the way to destroy the hood and ruin the engine. They tend to die in the 80k and up range, and are a cheap part, less than $40 I think. They are also on the top of the engine and easy to get to.
• Air/Oil separator can die and cause a boost leak. Common on a lot of cars. On these cars that is part of the PCV system. I would change the PCV valve and air/oil separator at the same time.
• There are a few coolant lines under the intake and around the back of the cylinder heads that start to leak. You will smell coolant, but not see a leak. The water can leak into the V of the engine. To fix them the intake has to come up. Not a huge job, but obviously if you’re taking the intake off best to change them all at once.
• The starter is very reliable, even the auto stop/start units in the Turbo’s. That said, if it dies the intake has to come out, as the starter is in the V of the engine. The auto stop/start starter motor is not that cheap, about $1,500 MSRP, and can be had from Gaudin etc for about $850. Depending on mileage, if the intake comes out you can choose to change the starter or not.
• Do your PDK oil changes as planned and the tranny should last a long time. Porsche says do it ever 60k, and to not change the pan. The filler is part of the pan though, so I ALWAYS change the pan with the oil every 60k.
• The front diff oil change is not easy to get to. Lots of labor to get to it. I would say change it ever 100k, just know its not small. Rear diff oil change it no bad, and again I would say every 100k do it.
• Coils can dies. they are easy to change though. Very common as lots of Audi’s, VW’s etc use these coils.
• Like a lot of Porsche’s, back to and including my 996 Turbo, have water pipes that were glued in. the glue dies over time and you can get a leak. Not something to stress over as it’s a bit rare. That said Porsche has updated the parts with pipes that are threaded in. For me, if the intake comes off, or work is being done in the right area, you might replace them on principle. Your Indy should be above to advise.

This is a comprehensive list as I know it. Things that are coming on other cars, like water pumps, seem to be very reliable on these cars. They are metal, not plastic. It may seem like a big list at first. It’s really not. Those things are all of the big ones, that MIGHT be ann issue. Over the course of 100k you might see some of them. I cannot think of anything else. Others can add to it. Again, CHANGE THE FUEL VAPOR VALVE. It’s up on the top of the engine on the passenger side, and it prob a 15 min change if you’re remotely mechanically inclined.

TheStrategist

My Panamera has this issue sometimes but the dealer says they can’t duplicate it. Is there any condition that will make it fail consistently?

TheStrategist

what part is this? When I google this I only get fuel tank valves. Thanks

huskeric

agreed - I think this is the part, but need confirmation as well... this appears to be the part the runs under the pass side valve cover up to the throttle body. this also appears to the offending part causing other intakes to explode

https://www.porscheatlantaperimeterp...811002074.html

Duc Hunter

I don't normally say this but.....search is a wonderful thing. I knew I had seen the part several times. Did a search on google for "Porsche Panamera Turbo intake explosion" and this thread poops up., Shows the fuel vapor valve etc.

Rennlist Thread on Intake Explosion

Here's another thread on one that blew up.

Another Rennlister's blown up Panamera Turbo Intake
Here is the part. Looks like the line has the valve on the end of it. Cheap too, esp considering the alternative if it fails.

Gaudin Porsche Parts Fuel Vapor Valve

As for the rear lifts, it's hard to get it to duplicate frequently as it starts to fail. That said the ECU saved the errors so the dealer should be able to see them. I believe it also says which side has it (could be wrong) as can see a voltage spike. I think.

huskeric

Yes, search is, in fact, a wonderful thing - that is when the information in other threads is accurate. I did read the threads regarding the exploding intake manifolds, but if you read closely, one of the first responses directs you to the wrong part, which also appears to be the same part you have posted. The line you two are referring to comes off the rear of the motor and winds down the driver's side valve cover, while the actual line that is failing runs under the pass side valve cover and then up to the tbody.
This pic clearly shows the failed line, which is different than the one you listed from the other article...

Duc Hunter

@huskeric maybe. The diagnosis I have seen though is that post explosion lots of lines are broken, including the one you note. "Explosive disassembly" will do that, and it makes diagnosing which line or part caused the issue tough. What I understand is happening is that the valve in my line fails. As a result it lets fuel vapor into the intake manifold from the fuel tank. Upon start up the PCV heater kicks on and ignites the fuel vapor in the intake, blowing it up. The force of this explosion can destroy the intake, destroy a hood, blow a lot of lines apart in the vacuum system.....and in bad cases cause the heads to be damaged so the valves leak (failed leak down tests), and even blow the rings out (failed compression test), needing a new bottom end. The key is how does the fuel vapor settle in the intake. My understanding is that it is the purge valve, or vapor valve, in then line I noted is suppose to be closed unless vacuum is applied. When its diaphragm tears fuel vapor is not prevented from settling in the intake. A lot of these happen after fueling up, which makes sense as that pushes a ton of fuel vapor. Another time the intake exploded is after the car sits for a while. This makes sense again as there is time and temperature changes (and just evaporation of fuel) causes vapor to flow into the intake.

huskeric

Agreed - and I think we are both saying/suggesting more or less the same thing - something is causing an issue and it could be one or more of the hoses we are speaking about... I think I may replace both lines now after further thought, as well as closely checking the other PCV/emission lines too.

jeffpanamara

Thanks for all the great comments and special thanks to duchunter for a long, detailed write-up! I ssems my wife will be keeping her prize car for a good while.

Duc Hunter

You're very welcome. One of the many things I love about Porsche's, is the amazing community we have. Glad to pass along what little I have learned over the years.

Arione

only thing to go wrong with my 14 TS so far was the charcoal canister.