Turbo Left front drive axle stub loose- Service parts available?
#16
Hey Jeremy
I have same problem with my panamera. I have really loud huuming noise on front . I found Front Right axle has play behind flange. Trying to replace it myself but just making sure if i read your post right.
After i remove the axle how does flange come off..is there a bolt that holds it or i have to beat it out with slide hammer or something?
Also when removing the bearing, post says to remove clip, reinstall the flange and use air hammer behind the flange to push it out? - this i dont understand. How is flange going to push the bearing out?
Thanks for the help
I have same problem with my panamera. I have really loud huuming noise on front . I found Front Right axle has play behind flange. Trying to replace it myself but just making sure if i read your post right.
After i remove the axle how does flange come off..is there a bolt that holds it or i have to beat it out with slide hammer or something?
Also when removing the bearing, post says to remove clip, reinstall the flange and use air hammer behind the flange to push it out? - this i dont understand. How is flange going to push the bearing out?
Thanks for the help
#17
Hey Jeremy
I have same problem with my panamera. I have really loud huuming noise on front . I found Front Right axle has play behind flange. Trying to replace it myself but just making sure if i read your post right.
After i remove the axle how does flange come off..is there a bolt that holds it or i have to beat it out with slide hammer or something?
Also when removing the bearing, post says to remove clip, reinstall the flange and use air hammer behind the flange to push it out? - this i dont understand. How is flange going to push the bearing out?
Thanks for the help
I have same problem with my panamera. I have really loud huuming noise on front . I found Front Right axle has play behind flange. Trying to replace it myself but just making sure if i read your post right.
After i remove the axle how does flange come off..is there a bolt that holds it or i have to beat it out with slide hammer or something?
Also when removing the bearing, post says to remove clip, reinstall the flange and use air hammer behind the flange to push it out? - this i dont understand. How is flange going to push the bearing out?
Thanks for the help
This is not an easy job. If you don't understand my explanation, I wouldn't try to handle this yourself, especially in your driveway!
Jeremy
#19
It does make it easier to access everything if you pull the steering rack out of the way. No need to remove the tie rod ends or power steering lines, just unbolt the column, take out the two rack mounting bolts and pull it all backwards and down out of the way. Watch the pressure sensor on the rack. There's a heat shield in the way too. Also I removed the left side downpipe to gain access. I was preparing to remove the whole carrier assembly as a heads-up...
Jeremy
Jeremy
The following users liked this post:
sac02 (09-03-2024)
#20
Thank you again this will help alot.
Hopefully this is my problem because the noise is really loud on front and we checked everything and that play behind the flange is only thing that looks off. We checked front diff ..no shavings or sparkling in fluid on light and we flushed it.
wheel bearings seem to be ok but will replace those too if needed.
Hopefully this is my problem because the noise is really loud on front and we checked everything and that play behind the flange is only thing that looks off. We checked front diff ..no shavings or sparkling in fluid on light and we flushed it.
wheel bearings seem to be ok but will replace those too if needed.
#21
Bump for visibility and public thanks to Jeremy for all the useful info in this thread.
I had this happen to mine seemingly overnight this weekend. It drove fine Saturday, then Sunday after a 20-minute drive I pulled into a parking lot and it was awful metal-on-metal noises coming from the front left. At low speed (under 10mph) it sounded horrible. Interestingly, above 30mph there was no noticeable sound or vibration. I drove it straight home.
I pulled it apart and this was the issue. I'm going to get the bearing on the way home from work today. I will update as I go through the repair.
Searching a bit yields lots (well, a handful) of results on Youtube - this unfortunately seems semi-common.
For reference mine is a 2012 TurboS with 138k miles at the time of failure.
I had this happen to mine seemingly overnight this weekend. It drove fine Saturday, then Sunday after a 20-minute drive I pulled into a parking lot and it was awful metal-on-metal noises coming from the front left. At low speed (under 10mph) it sounded horrible. Interestingly, above 30mph there was no noticeable sound or vibration. I drove it straight home.
I pulled it apart and this was the issue. I'm going to get the bearing on the way home from work today. I will update as I go through the repair.
Searching a bit yields lots (well, a handful) of results on Youtube - this unfortunately seems semi-common.
For reference mine is a 2012 TurboS with 138k miles at the time of failure.
The following users liked this post:
jhine5588 (09-08-2024)
#23
My repair completed successfully. Pretty straightforward IMO. I did have issues getting the axle out of the hub, but just need some patience, penetrating oil, and bigger hammer. I did not have issues getting the bearing re-seated as Jeremy mentioned above - axle sockets sized to match the races and patiently tapped into place pretty easily for me.
My personal philosophy is that I like to remove a component that's in my way rather than struggle working around it. I'd probably earn less this way as a book-rate tech, but I'm not a book-rate tech so I don't care lol. It makes my life easier.
I removed the strut entirely and had plenty of room to work.
I pulled the bearing using a deep groove ball bearing puller and a slide hammer.
One thing I want to point out - the "6006" bearing spec'd above is not correct. The correct bearing is a double sealed bearing: 6006-2RS. I think this was a reasonable mistake because the bearing race itself is only marked "6006". A manufacturer will make a 6006 size bearing and then use it for various models but the bearing race will only say the size (6006) not the sealing (ZZ, RS, 2RS,etc).
The way these have failed results in lots of shrapnel and the seals on both front and rear of mine were detached and might not be immediately obvious as part of the bearing.
My personal philosophy is that I like to remove a component that's in my way rather than struggle working around it. I'd probably earn less this way as a book-rate tech, but I'm not a book-rate tech so I don't care lol. It makes my life easier.
I removed the strut entirely and had plenty of room to work.
I pulled the bearing using a deep groove ball bearing puller and a slide hammer.
One thing I want to point out - the "6006" bearing spec'd above is not correct. The correct bearing is a double sealed bearing: 6006-2RS. I think this was a reasonable mistake because the bearing race itself is only marked "6006". A manufacturer will make a 6006 size bearing and then use it for various models but the bearing race will only say the size (6006) not the sealing (ZZ, RS, 2RS,etc).
The way these have failed results in lots of shrapnel and the seals on both front and rear of mine were detached and might not be immediately obvious as part of the bearing.
Last edited by sac02; 09-09-2024 at 04:16 PM.
The following users liked this post:
jhine5588 (09-09-2024)
#24
One thing I want to point out - the "6006" bearing spec'd above is not correct. The correct bearing is a double sealed bearing: 6006-2RS. I think this was a reasonable mistake because the bearing race itself is only marked "6006". A manufacturer will make a 6006 size bearing and then use it for various models but the bearing race will only say the size (6006) not the sealing (ZZ, RS, 2RS,etc).
I'm glad the repair was successful for you and thank you for sharing the bearing sealing nomenclature.
Jeremy
#26
Jeremy
#27
i read what you wrote.
i just want to full understand so i wont make any damage.
after taking out the spring, put back the flange with its small spring and then use hammer on the flange back...... the flange will be attached to the axel, and not to bearing. right?
so i just wanted to be sure.
if i hit with hamer then the bearing shoud go out with the axel? do i need to release and scew or just hit it and it will go out?
thanks