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Chasing down suspension noises is draining my wallet. 13k deep. The last mechanic wrecked me and I still have the noise over speed bumps when cold. I have to start turning my own wrench.
My biggest fear is jacking up the car with a typical jack and jack stands, doing it alone for the first time. Anyone have any tips on how to do this and know exactly where the spots are? Do I need some sort of adapter?
Also, where do I find "torque to spec" info?
Going to be changing the drivers side air strut, and I suppose sway bar bushings. Just did upper and lower control arms as well as engine mounts. Got anything else for me to hit?
There are rectangle poly jacking blocks under the rocker covers . I have found that using two jacks on the two front blocks gets the front up . Then you can place stands in various places to your liking . There are round metal holding points just inside the jacking block area . I believe these are the factory pin holding spots when joining the body to the chassis , I often think about fabing up some pin style stands for these ? Once the front is up I move to the back and jack on the aluminum central housing block in the area of the differential , lifts the whole back right up . I place stands under the poly blocks back there . There are also the pin post points there as well . Two jacks raised together really makes it easy . I do put a spacer block in the cup on the floor jack to avoid bitching up the rocker cover .
This may not help with your immediate need, but if they're in your budget, QuickJacks are the way to go. They're currently running a sale. I've had my set for 4-5 years and they're far better than jack stands.
This may not help with your immediate need, but if they're in your budget, QuickJacks are the way to go. They're currently running a sale. I've had my set for 4-5 years and they're far better than jack stands.
I went with 4ea Powerbuilt 3-ton jacking jackstands and an Arcan 2-ton low profile (A20016)(AK.A X2LT). Aside from being cheaper than a quick jack, I find them to be more versatile, and easier to store when not in use. The quickjack is much more convenient though. I too had a hard time determining if adapters were needed for the jacking points. It seems like a very overlooked detail that there isn't really great info out there on.
I went with 4ea Powerbuilt 3-ton jacking jackstands
Googled the Powerbuilt Jacking Jack Stand. This is what I found. Neat idea as lifting with a floor jack and then putting in a jack stand is challenging given the limited real estate. Confirming this is the one? In the reviews people complain about difficulty in letting the jack down. Is this an issue or is there a trick?
reverse roll when done ! You need the same tandem floor jacks , drop the back with one . Then move one to each side up front . Not sure I would benefit from the adjustable stand for holding up the car ? I would like one for trans holding or suspension work I see a use .
Googled the Powerbuilt Jacking Jack Stand. This is what I found. Neat idea as lifting with a floor jack and then putting in a jack stand is challenging given the limited real estate. Confirming this is the one? In the reviews people complain about difficulty in letting the jack down. Is this an issue or is there a trick?
I have used these almost since their inception and haven't had any issues lowering them. The only "trick" I would say is that the way they work, the silver latch (with the red and green arrows) rises up as you jack the handle. As it reaches the top, it falls back down into each toothed notch to lock into the "jackstand phase". If you just jack it up a bit out of the locked notch, you can manually flip the latch up to allow the bottle jack to lower all the way down.
Aside from that, it also helps to go in with a sharpie marker and draw a line around the grey top post portion of where the highest position is so you don't accidentally jack past a point where the locks can engage (because it would kind of defeat the purpose)
They even work great as in impromptu loading dock
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Jacking up 970
