Removing the Macan Turbo engine
#1
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi all,
Following the saga with my engine (documented here: https://rennlist.com/forums/macan/1385680-broken-bolts-found-in-oil-pan.html), it now appears the engine may have developed rod knock within 200 miles of fixing it - possibly from the few seconds it was starved of oil.
I still have a few diagnostic steps (when my new borescope arrives today) to confirm it, but I want to start thinking about getting the engine out as fast as possible.
The factory service manual would have me use this giant purpose built contraption with many arms that goes in from underneath and drops the engine out downwards with the subframe. However I’ve always generally taken out engines from the top.
Does anyone know if I remove the entire front again, suspend the engine by its top engine lift points, disconnect the drive shafts, etc, can I maneuver the engine (with transmission) out the top/front - or will I run in to some unforeseen clearance issue? I have a 4 post lift, engine crane, etc, so access shouldn’t be hard.
Another reasons I’d rather do this is to maintain a “rolling” chassis so I can move it around without the engine/trans installed.
Let me know if anyone has any tips. I’m considering creating a video series of this procedure, rebuild, etc… Never done one before, but if there is interest I might be up for doing it. At least have some fun, and maybe help some folks, in the face of this catastrophe.
Thanks!
S.
Following the saga with my engine (documented here: https://rennlist.com/forums/macan/1385680-broken-bolts-found-in-oil-pan.html), it now appears the engine may have developed rod knock within 200 miles of fixing it - possibly from the few seconds it was starved of oil.
I still have a few diagnostic steps (when my new borescope arrives today) to confirm it, but I want to start thinking about getting the engine out as fast as possible.
The factory service manual would have me use this giant purpose built contraption with many arms that goes in from underneath and drops the engine out downwards with the subframe. However I’ve always generally taken out engines from the top.
Does anyone know if I remove the entire front again, suspend the engine by its top engine lift points, disconnect the drive shafts, etc, can I maneuver the engine (with transmission) out the top/front - or will I run in to some unforeseen clearance issue? I have a 4 post lift, engine crane, etc, so access shouldn’t be hard.
Another reasons I’d rather do this is to maintain a “rolling” chassis so I can move it around without the engine/trans installed.
Let me know if anyone has any tips. I’m considering creating a video series of this procedure, rebuild, etc… Never done one before, but if there is interest I might be up for doing it. At least have some fun, and maybe help some folks, in the face of this catastrophe.
Thanks!
S.
#2
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Man, I’m so sorry you’re going through this after that whole ordeal with the broken bolts. Porsche really should be offering folks like you some good will.
i don’t have any advice on removing the engine other than to say Porsche’s shop procedures assume what is most efficient in a Porsche shop with all proprietary tools. Doesn’t mean a more traditional way couldn’t be done safely as well, it’s just not the Porsche way.
Keep us posted, I really enjoyed following your other thread.
i don’t have any advice on removing the engine other than to say Porsche’s shop procedures assume what is most efficient in a Porsche shop with all proprietary tools. Doesn’t mean a more traditional way couldn’t be done safely as well, it’s just not the Porsche way.
Keep us posted, I really enjoyed following your other thread.
The following users liked this post:
romemmy (04-13-2024)
#3
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi all,
Following the saga with my engine (documented here: https://rennlist.com/forums/macan/13...n-oil-pan.html), it now appears the engine may have developed rod knock within 200 miles of fixing it - possibly from the few seconds it was starved of oil.
I still have a few diagnostic steps (when my new borescope arrives today) to confirm it, but I want to start thinking about getting the engine out as fast as possible.
The factory service manual would have me use this giant purpose built contraption with many arms that goes in from underneath and drops the engine out downwards with the subframe. However I’ve always generally taken out engines from the top.
Does anyone know if I remove the entire front again, suspend the engine by its top engine lift points, disconnect the drive shafts, etc, can I maneuver the engine (with transmission) out the top/front - or will I run in to some unforeseen clearance issue? I have a 4 post lift, engine crane, etc, so access shouldn’t be hard.
Another reasons I’d rather do this is to maintain a “rolling” chassis so I can move it around without the engine/trans installed.
Let me know if anyone has any tips. I’m considering creating a video series of this procedure, rebuild, etc… Never done one before, but if there is interest I might be up for doing it. At least have some fun, and maybe help some folks, in the face of this catastrophe.
Thanks!
S.
Following the saga with my engine (documented here: https://rennlist.com/forums/macan/13...n-oil-pan.html), it now appears the engine may have developed rod knock within 200 miles of fixing it - possibly from the few seconds it was starved of oil.
I still have a few diagnostic steps (when my new borescope arrives today) to confirm it, but I want to start thinking about getting the engine out as fast as possible.
The factory service manual would have me use this giant purpose built contraption with many arms that goes in from underneath and drops the engine out downwards with the subframe. However I’ve always generally taken out engines from the top.
Does anyone know if I remove the entire front again, suspend the engine by its top engine lift points, disconnect the drive shafts, etc, can I maneuver the engine (with transmission) out the top/front - or will I run in to some unforeseen clearance issue? I have a 4 post lift, engine crane, etc, so access shouldn’t be hard.
Another reasons I’d rather do this is to maintain a “rolling” chassis so I can move it around without the engine/trans installed.
Let me know if anyone has any tips. I’m considering creating a video series of this procedure, rebuild, etc… Never done one before, but if there is interest I might be up for doing it. At least have some fun, and maybe help some folks, in the face of this catastrophe.
Thanks!
S.
Is the front upper radiator support removable? If yes you have a better chance at pulling it from the front/above.
If pulling from the front/above the the hood should come off for more comfortable working.
#4
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I will be pulling off the entire front again to make it easy. Yes, the upper and lower radiator supports come out - it’s completely clear in the front if everything is removed like I did before. Done it once already so should be very fast this time. Hopefully I can do it like my M3 V8 motor - pull it straight forward, through the front.
My main concern is if they have some kind of bolt/mount attaching it to the subframe that is inaccessible without doing it their way.
If there are no other references for this I guess I’ll just have to try it!
Thanks!
S.
#5
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Removing all of the front stuff (crossbars, radiator package, hoses, etc.), it should come out. Detach the engine mounts after attaching the lifting tackle.
Also have a close look at the cowl/base of windshield area to see what needs to/can be removed. Depending on clearance in front, the cowl/tunnel area will likely be a pinch point.
Dealer procedures are not the only way to get a job done. They remove from below because they are equipped with vehicle lifts and supporting tables to do it that way.
Also have a close look at the cowl/base of windshield area to see what needs to/can be removed. Depending on clearance in front, the cowl/tunnel area will likely be a pinch point.
Dealer procedures are not the only way to get a job done. They remove from below because they are equipped with vehicle lifts and supporting tables to do it that way.
Last edited by chassis; 04-14-2024 at 03:49 PM.
The following users liked this post:
romemmy (04-14-2024)
#7
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I assume you don't have a lift? Or even quickjacks? Dropping out the bottom would be easier, that engine/trans/transfer case together is a big lot of stuff that even with an engine hoist I'd be hesitant to try to pull it all at once. You don't need to drop it onto their fancy table, even a simple structure out of wood could do it if you can lift the vehicle up off of it.
#9
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I assume you don't have a lift? Or even quickjacks? Dropping out the bottom would be easier, that engine/trans/transfer case together is a big lot of stuff that even with an engine hoist I'd be hesitant to try to pull it all at once. You don't need to drop it onto their fancy table, even a simple structure out of wood could do it if you can lift the vehicle up off of it.
#10
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
But you're right, won't be enough clearance to drop the subframe through the middle of a 4 post. I've pulled a few sub frames and transmissions on my scissor lift (never a full engine/trans/subframe together though) it's tight to pull a subframe but doable since the lift ends where the fender/door meet.
#12
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks!
S.