When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Where does the thought about aluminum fastener in this application come from? Did you order new screws from the dealer? What does a magnet test say about the existing broken screws?
they only hold some lightweight, low stress, components, the service manual states many of the bolts are aluminum, they are holding aluminum components (so galvanic corrosion could be an issue with steel), and they look aluminum.
However, I will test them before replacement to confirm the material.
they only hold some lightweight, low stress, components, the service manual states many of the bolts are aluminum, they are holding aluminum components (so galvanic corrosion could be an issue with steel), and they look aluminum.
However, I will test them before replacement to confirm the material.
Thanks!
S.
I would use Titanium or steel instead of aluminum. If those bolts were aluminum they could have failed because they are too soft. Clean up the new surfaces and use a good thread locker on the replacements. Galvanic corrosion will be unlikely inside the motor where there is a lot of oil splashed around. If you are really worried about that Titanium will be better than steel.
Got the front off the car. Still need to move the AC, intercooler and radiator, but all the trim and securing panels are off and the remaining functional items are loose. Porsche used an insane number of bolts just to hold the trim/bumper/bumper cover on - must be at nearly 100 bolts I think…. Or it feels like anyway.
Hopefully have the rest off tomorrow if I have time!
Happy New Year to all and great job! I know the pain having changed the A/C condenser on the V8 Touareg... I'm sure they could have saved a ton of money by only putting in 500 of the 1,000 bolts
Stone damaged the condenser. Tranny cooler in front with radiator in back all mounted together with clips
One complication I see is that IF you want to replace the oil-pump drive chain, you will need to first remove the cam timing chain, with the associated cam timing alignment procedure.
Take a look at the 2nd photo on this post (click the 1st photo to open the image gallery)
If you look close there are 2 bolts that looks exactly like the two in your photo. One is bent and one is sheared. Plastic parts look like they might be part of the oil pump chain guide.
I see the mods of that other forum shut that thread down from further posts so it can't be updated to provide the reporting of another nearly identical failure.
So I have everything off the front, all the serpentine belt pulleys that were in the way are out, and the last major item I have to remove is the crankshaft pulley/balancer. The bolt is of course on there with considerable torque. Does anyone know if this is a regular thread (not reverse thread)? Want to make sure I'm not tightening it!
Also, any tips on how to hold the pulley on this engine without the Porsche special tool? I can rig something up, but I'd rather not re-invent the wheel if someone has a good tip on how to secure this particular pulley.
How about a BIG impact wrench? Not 100% sure, but I doubt the crankshaft bolt is CCW threaded. The way to be 100% sure is to buy a new crank bolt from Porsche and look at the threads.
Also, change all your serpentine belt pulleys/idlers, and the hydraulic belt tensioner while you're "in-there".
And your waterpump too....and your thermostat.....and maybe see how your motormounts are....and change your diverter valves....(make me stop playing armchair mechanic...!!)
Thanks VAGfan! Looks like blacksheepSpyder just took a pic of it - he mentions that a "tech" took 24 shop hours to do it, so I doubt he took the pulley off himself. joe_ali definitely did it himself, but that was 3 years ago so not sure he's still getting messages, but I'll ping him just in case!
As for big impact, I've tried up to about 300ft/lbs, but I probably need a 1000+ ft/lbs rated one for it. However, I'll still need to holding tool to torque it back up.. Speaking of which, the repair manuals don't show the torque values! They just say you have to do it in 3 steps, but then no values listed. It's like they want to keep that information secret... If anyone happens to know, would be appreciated...
12-30-2023, 03:29 PM
