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Good diagnostic process! Agree that German cars are borderline "worth it", mainly because of engine grenade potential. The current production BMW engines seem OK. MB engines are pretty bad and Porsche engines are meh for the long haul well beyond 100k+ miles.
See post # 440, I think you can fix the chain guide without pulling the engine out. Remove the front bumper cover, bumper bar, radiators, and you have full access to the front of the engine (for this repair or to fix the timing chain oil leak). But, I am not sure the red circle below is the oilpump chain guide that came loose on your car. Cautionary Tale of Oil Leak (timing cover) - Page 30 - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums
See post # 440, I think you can fix the chain guide without pulling the engine out. Remove the front bumper cover, bumper bar, radiators, and you have full access to the front of the engine (for this repair or to fix the timing chain oil leak). But, I am not sure the red circle below is the oilpump chain guide that came loose on your car. Cautionary Tale of Oil Leak (timing cover) - Page 30 - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums
Thanks! That would be awesome if this works - don’t know why the manual literally says step one “remove engine” for this. That’s a 23 hour billable item… if removing the front bumper, etc, works, then that sounds like a bit of a money maker…
Never mind, I think I will need to take the engine out. That guide I think was part of a larger piece. On one side it looks like it’s snapped.
Dagnamit. Thanks Porsche! The only saving grace is being able to thoroughly inspect and clean out the engine, and fix the timing cover oil minor leak that’s been there for a while (common issue, weeps out). Except it’s going to burn a huge hole in my wallet and take several weeks to complete. 🤦
Out of all my cars, I’ve only ever had major issues with Audi, Porsche and BMW - my only German cars. My E90 M3 V8 engine grenaded itself due to a known defect in the rod bearings at 40K miles, my F82 M4 had both the valve cover leak and chargecooler leak (known issues), Boxster with M96 engine of course had the dreaded IMS leak (known issue), my Audi TT needs a complete rebuild (stock - but high mileage at least) and now this car - which is the family car, no modifications, the most “normal” used car I have to take the entire engine out and strip it down at only 70K miles, and it had the timing cover leak too. I expected this one to last forever-ish.
I might be on my last German cars - I’m developing a complex. My British cars, no issues. Japanese, no issues. Korean, no issues. French, no issues.
* deep breath *
S.
I have learned you cannot own a Porsche that is not covered by an extended warranty. Financial risk is too high. Learned that with my 2017 991.2 Carrera S. Water pump failed under last year of factory warranty and was replaced. A few years later out of warranty but with under 25K mi my thermostat failed. I have had better luck with my BMWs, but two M635s (one with over 250K and three motors) were mid 80's and an E39 M5 2002 gave me no issues. Love the way Porsche's drive but my 2022 Macan GTS is covered for 7 years in extended warranties and I will probably trade it after that if ICE version are still available.
That being said I think you have a good case to have Porsche cover the damages because this appears to be a manufacturing defect unless the car was over revved.
Got the new tensioner/chain guide thing today. Gonna give it a shot tomorrow. Hopefully I don’t find more damage.
For the record the parts department confirmed the bolts are M6-1.0 x 20mm. They didn’t have any in stock though, of course. I think it’s important to use an aluminum bolt here as I think that’s what saved the engine from much more severe damage - they are so soft they get chewed up before the more important bits - gears, chains, etc. Definitely needs a dab of threadlocker blue this time though.
Interestingly parts guy said he’s seen it happen before, but they don’t see it often. I think it’s because it happens usually outside of warranty and only an insane person would pay the dealer to fix it - I’m assuming indy’s will see it far more often. These bolts should never back out - the fact one is intact but bent all but proves it unwound itself.
I swear mass production companies live and die on planned obsolescence.
Where does the thought about aluminum fastener in this application come from? Did you order new screws from the dealer? What does a magnet test say about the existing broken screws?
Got the new tensioner/chain guide thing today. Gonna give it a shot tomorrow. Hopefully I don’t find more damage.
For the record the parts department confirmed the bolts are M6-1.0 x 20mm. They didn’t have any in stock though, of course. I think it’s important to use an aluminum bolt here as I think that’s what saved the engine from much more severe damage - they are so soft they get chewed up before the more important bits - gears, chains, etc. Definitely needs a dab of threadlocker blue this time though.
Interestingly parts guy said he’s seen it happen before, but they don’t see it often. I think it’s because it happens usually outside of warranty and only an insane person would pay the dealer to fix it - I’m assuming indy’s will see it far more often. These bolts should never back out - the fact one is intact but bent all but proves it unwound itself.
I swear mass production companies live and die on planned obsolescence.
Thanks!
S.
Have you been able to look up there and confirm that the chain has not broken?
12-28-2023 | 11:07 AM
