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I have searched the forums and google. I just got a 2016 Macan S and paid for a PPI all came back clear. Macan was delivered and immediately I have an engine control fault. Reader states it’s likely a coolant temperature sensor. I need to locate it if anyone is willing to help.
I'm not sure where exactly the coolant temp sensor is, and I'm sure someone who does will chime in, but have you determined if the temp gauge on the dash display (right side gauge) is functioning? I would think if the sensor is shot, there would be erratic readings on the coolant temperature gauge. Under normal operation, your coolant temp should be 200°F (+/- appx. 10°F) if functioning correctly.
If you have out of range temp readings, a failed thermostat might also be the culprit.
Looks like behind the passenger/right cylinder head. Similar to other German makes. It's the cute thingie at the bottom with the black plastic harness connector and gold/brass hex fitting.
Curious as to what abnormalities your coolant temp gauge is showing if any?
Not seeing any high temperatures. I think I may have the wrong information from the code which is a P0411 "Secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected." The Macan idles roughly and does seems to lack power. It might also be a sensor in the exhaust system.
Not seeing any high temperatures. I think I may have the wrong information from the code which is a P0411 "Secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected." The Macan idles roughly and does seems to lack power. It might also be a sensor in the exhaust system.
Rough running diagnosis:
Look through the induction system for leaks - cracked or loose hoses and tubes. Include the PCV system in your search.
Also thoroughly inspect the ignition system - plugs, coils and coil harness. Replace plugs if over 30k miles usage and replace coils if over 60k miles usage. Coil replacement makes a big difference and is not a specified maintenance item from any car manufacturer. Coils degrade over time.
Other electrical issues as you mentioned can be sensors with loose or broken wiring or connectors, or failed sensors. These should flag an OBD code.
Secondary Air Injection problems won't cause a rough idle or loss of power.
This system consists of an electric air pump that pumps fresh air upstream of the catalysts, for maybe 30 seconds during a cold-start of the engine. The fresh air allows residual unburned fuel mixture (from the cold-start enrichment) to burn in the exhaust manifold, into the cats, to heat them up quicker. Heating up the cats quicker allows a reduction in cold-start emissions. (The cats don't do the chemical reaction/conversion unless they are above a certain temperature).
Check if the Secondary Air pump works (it is typically located low in the engine compartment, behind one of the side mounted intercoolers. With a cold start (cold engine, not warm...), you can often hear the pump run for 30 seconds when the engine is started.
There is a 30A or 40A fuse, and the relay, for the pump, located inside the DME "weather-box", at the base of the windshield, under the black plastic cowl cover.
Or it is a broken or disconnect air hose, or check valve, or control valve ("Combi Valve") between the pump and where the air enters each cylinder head. Sometimes the air passage in the cylinder head gets clogged with carbon and then restricts the airflow...another cause of insufficent flow codes.
I found the code problem! One of the hoses was not locked onto the mount, causing a air leak. The hose was to the left of the secondary air pump and was one that you pinch to pull off and on. On to find our why it idles rough.
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Coolant temperature sensor location
