Any way to improve brake feel?
09-05-2021, 10:48 PM
#16
Wonder what it would take to upgrade to the Cayenne Tungsten Carbide coated rotors...
09-05-2021, 10:50 PM
#17
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
09-07-2021, 04:11 AM
#18
Intermediate
So far I installed the front drivers side rotor and ceramic pad with copper. Looks promising. Several 60 to 0 test where super smooth and and not grabby when lining up on the red. After 6 miles, no dust on the caliper. Give me 14 days to finish and test more.
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MrMarco (10-07-2021)
09-07-2021, 08:00 AM
#19
Rennlist Member
Sorry, exactly what brand of rotor and pad are you trying?
09-07-2021, 01:48 PM
#20
Intermediate
I bought a set of 4 rotors from R1 Concepts, and their Ceramic Pads that have copper infused in them. They are the other brand they sell called DFS. I had them CNC cut mini slots on the front side of the rotors. So basically I got 4 rotors with Porsche mini slots on the front and rear rotor faces, and they were re coated with the same coating as OEM. The iron has carbon and moly in the mix.
The pads are sort of an Akebono copy, but less copper to comply with California's copper law that mandates less copper on brake pads.
I know who the brothers are that started R1 Concepts, don't know them personally but have mutual friends and I got a hookup on these. This will be my 3rd set of this metal and pad combination, that I really like. These are experimental and a test to see how well they work. They don't sell these as a SKU that you can order. custom made for me. Been buying rotors from them for over a decade now.
The pads are sort of an Akebono copy, but less copper to comply with California's copper law that mandates less copper on brake pads.
I know who the brothers are that started R1 Concepts, don't know them personally but have mutual friends and I got a hookup on these. This will be my 3rd set of this metal and pad combination, that I really like. These are experimental and a test to see how well they work. They don't sell these as a SKU that you can order. custom made for me. Been buying rotors from them for over a decade now.
09-07-2021, 07:49 PM
#21
^ Wow, I just talk $#!+ on-line, ^ this guy is the real Marine! Thanks for the post jkirkerx!
10-03-2021, 03:04 PM
#23
Understood that brake wear experiences are highly subjective but here goes...
I purchased a lease returned 18' GTS with 10k on the clock last April and thought the brakes felt extremely sluggish from the get-go. I chalked it up to not being used to driving a heavier vehicle than my previous BMX X1, but when I took it in for an unrelated issue, the tech mentioned all four pads had 1mm left and pointed out that all four rotors had considerable edge lip forming on the outside edges. Assuming the previous driver was terrible, 10k still felt a little early for these components to be THAT worn out, especially the wear being even between the front and rear. I do live in the desert so perhaps the 110 degree heat will be partially to blame going forward but it wouldn't have been a factor where it was driven previously.
I had the dealer replace all components/fluid flush at 15k, and had the 20k services done early. Brakes feel much better but I cant help but notice that the dust buildup is quickly back with a vengeance so I can't help but wonder if I will be doing these brakes again after another 15k miles. Previous posts indicate most on here are seeing this at 30-40k miles. I suppose by then I will be out of warranty and can focus on aftermarket components with better cooling.
Curious if anyone has had a similar experience with the OEM pads/rotors? It didn't really phase me until I got the bill...
As an aside, because of this forum, I did ask for a timing cover inspection and sure enough, one had seepage. Dye was added to the oil and the dealer will be doing the engine out in a few weeks. THANK YOU for that heads up!
I purchased a lease returned 18' GTS with 10k on the clock last April and thought the brakes felt extremely sluggish from the get-go. I chalked it up to not being used to driving a heavier vehicle than my previous BMX X1, but when I took it in for an unrelated issue, the tech mentioned all four pads had 1mm left and pointed out that all four rotors had considerable edge lip forming on the outside edges. Assuming the previous driver was terrible, 10k still felt a little early for these components to be THAT worn out, especially the wear being even between the front and rear. I do live in the desert so perhaps the 110 degree heat will be partially to blame going forward but it wouldn't have been a factor where it was driven previously.
I had the dealer replace all components/fluid flush at 15k, and had the 20k services done early. Brakes feel much better but I cant help but notice that the dust buildup is quickly back with a vengeance so I can't help but wonder if I will be doing these brakes again after another 15k miles. Previous posts indicate most on here are seeing this at 30-40k miles. I suppose by then I will be out of warranty and can focus on aftermarket components with better cooling.
Curious if anyone has had a similar experience with the OEM pads/rotors? It didn't really phase me until I got the bill...
As an aside, because of this forum, I did ask for a timing cover inspection and sure enough, one had seepage. Dye was added to the oil and the dealer will be doing the engine out in a few weeks. THANK YOU for that heads up!
10-03-2021, 05:04 PM
#24
^10K to replace rotors is quick, but like you said, everything automotive is "highly subjective" from tire wear to seat comfort. I routinely get 23 MPG driving little kids around, but putting the hammer down a couple of times per tank will bring me down to an average 17-18 MPG. IMHO you should be getting 60K out of a rotor no matter what vehicle, but looks like imma buy new rotors and pads in less than 5 at 40K... I am also not pleased about spending over $2,000 on snow wheels, but whomever put a crack in my OEM wheel is to blame for that expense.
Last edited by MrMarco; 10-03-2021 at 05:05 PM.
10-03-2021, 08:01 PM
#25
Intermediate
Understood that brake wear experiences are highly subjective but here goes...
I purchased a lease returned 18' GTS with 10k on the clock last April and thought the brakes felt extremely sluggish from the get-go. I chalked it up to not being used to driving a heavier vehicle than my previous BMX X1, but when I took it in for an unrelated issue, the tech mentioned all four pads had 1mm left and pointed out that all four rotors had considerable edge lip forming on the outside edges. Assuming the previous driver was terrible, 10k still felt a little early for these components to be THAT worn out, especially the wear being even between the front and rear. I do live in the desert so perhaps the 110 degree heat will be partially to blame going forward but it wouldn't have been a factor where it was driven previously.
I had the dealer replace all components/fluid flush at 15k, and had the 20k services done early. Brakes feel much better but I cant help but notice that the dust buildup is quickly back with a vengeance so I can't help but wonder if I will be doing these brakes again after another 15k miles. Previous posts indicate most on here are seeing this at 30-40k miles. I suppose by then I will be out of warranty and can focus on aftermarket components with better cooling.
Curious if anyone has had a similar experience with the OEM pads/rotors? It didn't really phase me until I got the bill...
As an aside, because of this forum, I did ask for a timing cover inspection and sure enough, one had seepage. Dye was added to the oil and the dealer will be doing the engine out in a few weeks. THANK YOU for that heads up!
I purchased a lease returned 18' GTS with 10k on the clock last April and thought the brakes felt extremely sluggish from the get-go. I chalked it up to not being used to driving a heavier vehicle than my previous BMX X1, but when I took it in for an unrelated issue, the tech mentioned all four pads had 1mm left and pointed out that all four rotors had considerable edge lip forming on the outside edges. Assuming the previous driver was terrible, 10k still felt a little early for these components to be THAT worn out, especially the wear being even between the front and rear. I do live in the desert so perhaps the 110 degree heat will be partially to blame going forward but it wouldn't have been a factor where it was driven previously.
I had the dealer replace all components/fluid flush at 15k, and had the 20k services done early. Brakes feel much better but I cant help but notice that the dust buildup is quickly back with a vengeance so I can't help but wonder if I will be doing these brakes again after another 15k miles. Previous posts indicate most on here are seeing this at 30-40k miles. I suppose by then I will be out of warranty and can focus on aftermarket components with better cooling.
Curious if anyone has had a similar experience with the OEM pads/rotors? It didn't really phase me until I got the bill...
As an aside, because of this forum, I did ask for a timing cover inspection and sure enough, one had seepage. Dye was added to the oil and the dealer will be doing the engine out in a few weeks. THANK YOU for that heads up!
10K on first set brakes, well I’ve done it on previous new cars, and another set of fronts at 20K, 30K. But it was mostly fast and furious city driving,
i don’t know what the Porsche front brake pad is composed of on the GTS. I know who makes it. And they are perhaps soft yet aggressive with metallic content. Makes this sticky dark residue, the dust is what’s doesn’t stick to the calipers
the rears are TRW, seems like a different composition. Harder pad with heavy metallic content. But the rears do actually work well and carry the load.
brake life is all about your driving style and how you use the car, or where you go. You would have to experiment with different rotor irons and pad compositions if you think the Porsche OEM setup is too radical or short life span.
i can’t imagine voiding the warranty from running a different rotor or pad combination. It’s a wear and tear system.
Last edited by jkirkerx; 10-03-2021 at 08:06 PM.
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MrMarco (10-03-2021)
10-05-2021, 10:53 PM
#26
I understand what you are saying, and I've replaced brakes and rotors on my previous Porsches myself and I'm familiar with everything you are talking about, but I don't think this is the issue. The shuddering I'm referring to feels as if there is a switch that is actuated at the initial pedal tip in to let the PDK know 'car is braking' and to disengage. Nothing happens for the first inch or so of travel and then it grabs hard and creates the shudder.
Brake feel issues are a common complaint for the Macan. Porsche cheaped out on the braking system for the Macan and admitted as much when it was launched when they were criticized about the undersized floating rear calipers.
I hope I can eventually find a resolution because the car is great in all respects except for the braking.
Brake feel issues are a common complaint for the Macan. Porsche cheaped out on the braking system for the Macan and admitted as much when it was launched when they were criticized about the undersized floating rear calipers.
I hope I can eventually find a resolution because the car is great in all respects except for the braking.
10-06-2021, 06:12 PM
#27
mike, there's something wrong. It gives the impression of air in the line(s) or moisture in the brake fluid. The cheapest solution might be to have a brake fluid flush. If that doesn't stop the issue, then based on how long this has been going on, this issue may have caused irregular wearing/excessive brake material/warping issues and will force you to swap out everything. But...with no guarantees. Still, I'd go with the fluid drain/fill first.
10-07-2021, 03:07 AM
#28
Intermediate
Thinking about what the original op says, and how the conversation has got to this point. As far as fluid, brake sensor tin how the PDK knows to react, grabbiness parking in the garage,
I think the OP needs to post some pictures of the rotor surface so we can see the rotor surface wear. That will tell story and give us a clue.
as for my own experience. I realize now that the GTS calipers and 360mm rotors are overkill for regular driving. I don’t think it matters what pads you use, the car will stop on a dime. My new brakes were so fine on installation, but after breaking in with full contact on the rotor surface, I’m back to grabbiness.
ive had the pads shift bad out of proper position for a knaely squeel. I’ve noticed that the drivers side front caliper applies more pressure than the other calipers resulting in more rotor wear by 2X. The rotors get hot but cool quickly.
I 3x the amount of moly lube on the caliper pins and hardware, reset the pads that shifted. I put lube in between the rear hardware and caliper, amd inside the channel that the rear brake pad tab travels in.
one mistake I made; was I should of drove the car normal for 200 miles before I did my 50 to 0 break in or pad set. And another 100 miles before the 90 to 0 pad set.
I’m going to take a giant leap here, and suspect it may be lower pin guide holes in the pads being too large. Or the front drivers side pad is shifting, and sort of being out of true position. Not returning back home to trueness. I noticed on my rotors when the pads shifted that they were not truly vertical. Brake hardware related.
just my 2 cents in my own experience. I may dump my pads and try again.
I think the OP needs to post some pictures of the rotor surface so we can see the rotor surface wear. That will tell story and give us a clue.
as for my own experience. I realize now that the GTS calipers and 360mm rotors are overkill for regular driving. I don’t think it matters what pads you use, the car will stop on a dime. My new brakes were so fine on installation, but after breaking in with full contact on the rotor surface, I’m back to grabbiness.
ive had the pads shift bad out of proper position for a knaely squeel. I’ve noticed that the drivers side front caliper applies more pressure than the other calipers resulting in more rotor wear by 2X. The rotors get hot but cool quickly.
I 3x the amount of moly lube on the caliper pins and hardware, reset the pads that shifted. I put lube in between the rear hardware and caliper, amd inside the channel that the rear brake pad tab travels in.
one mistake I made; was I should of drove the car normal for 200 miles before I did my 50 to 0 break in or pad set. And another 100 miles before the 90 to 0 pad set.
I’m going to take a giant leap here, and suspect it may be lower pin guide holes in the pads being too large. Or the front drivers side pad is shifting, and sort of being out of true position. Not returning back home to trueness. I noticed on my rotors when the pads shifted that they were not truly vertical. Brake hardware related.
just my 2 cents in my own experience. I may dump my pads and try again.
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MrMarco (10-07-2021)
10-07-2021, 06:41 PM
#30
Intermediate
Darn iPhone and it's auto correct. Or perhaps because I just bought a Storm Phaze 2 bowling ball and was just talking about it. 
LOL!
https://www.stormbowling.com/phazeii
LOL!https://www.stormbowling.com/phazeii
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MrMarco (10-07-2021)