Has anybody dropped the roof console? Looking for power for a radar detector. Thx.
#1
Has anybody dropped the roof console? Looking for power for a radar detector. Thx.
Hey gang, looking for input on how to drop down the roof console. This is on a fully-loaded 2018 Macan sport edition, with all the buttons on both the center and roof consoles, but I imagine all are the same size, so same thing as far as installation and removal. After removing the mirror trim (3 pieces total), there's only ONE connector that could be used, but unfortunately, it has no power with ignition on. It must be for the lane departure, rain sensor, etc (can't follow the wires). The only other connector is the passenger airbag status, but I never touch those. So need to drop down the freaking roof console. On 911s and Cayman/Boxsters, a credit card at the front on each side does the trick, but these are different. Don't want to mess with it blindly, and potentially break something. Hope somebody already did this . Thank you in advance for your help.
JC
JC
#4
I have done it to change the dome and map lights to LED on my '16 Macan S which didn't have the comfort light option or keyless entry (this wasn't standard back then and unless this option box was ticked you got only non-LED lighting inside). It was very easy to remove, only know that you have to start from prying off the rearward facing part which will then tilt downwards with the part towards the front remaining 'hinged' to the roof.
That said, as suggested by KM1959, I have run power from the passenger side fusebox up the A-pillar and the roof liner to power my radar. Very easy and DIY and cable hidden.
That said, as suggested by KM1959, I have run power from the passenger side fusebox up the A-pillar and the roof liner to power my radar. Very easy and DIY and cable hidden.
#6
Should you decide to go this route I found the pictures when I went into the upper console to change the lights, FYI.
Dropping the overhead console.
Console removed from the hinged part.
Frame surround that comes off first.
Dropping the overhead console.
Console removed from the hinged part.
Frame surround that comes off first.
#7
Thanks a million for that brother... BUT can't remove the f***ing thing, even knowing where the tabs are. Maybe I pushed them into the ceiling. How the heck did you remove yours? The outside black trim is out, but can't swing the damn thing down. If I pull down any harder, I'd break something. And can't see inside. I just inserted 2 plastic trim tools at both sides, where the tabs are supposed to be. I can hear metal snapping back, so I must be catching them, but can't break it loose. Or do you have to press on the side tabs too? Maybe that's the trick. Hopefully you have an answer ... and can reply soon. Need to put the thing back together today. Thanks. By the way, on the sport editions, everything is LED, so no need to replace any bulbs.
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#8
Thanks a million for that brother... BUT can't remove the f***ing thing, even knowing where the tabs are. Maybe I pushed them into the ceiling. How the heck did you remove yours? The outside black trim is out, but can't swing the damn thing down. If I pull down any harder, I'd break something. And can't see inside. I just inserted 2 plastic trim tools at both sides, where the tabs are supposed to be. I can hear metal snapping back, so I must be catching them, but can't break it loose. Or do you have to press on the side tabs too? Maybe that's the trick. Hopefully you have an answer ... and can reply soon. Need to put the thing back together today. Thanks. By the way, on the sport editions, everything is LED, so no need to replace any bulbs.
https://www.macanforum.com/forum/ele...ghts-leds.html
https://www.macanforum.com/forum/ele...ts-leds-4.html
#9
You know, I don't like messing at all with the A-pillars with airbags in there. Maybe my concern is not warranted, but prefer not to. If the airbags deploy, they might catch the cable and whip it in your face. Will try with the MirrorTap, and if it can't reach or something, then resort to that. By the way, need to look where the fusebox is. On my Cayman and Boxster, it was on the side of the dash.
Here is a very resent thread on the subject: https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...dwired-v1.html
#10
I think your concern is not warranted. That top console looks like a nightmare to me. The fuse panel is the easiest method. There is one on both sides of the dash but I think the passenger side is easier and has a convenient grounding location. To hide the wire along the A-pillar, simply use a plastic trim tool to tuck it on the top of the windshield and under the weatherstripping on the A-pillar. You do not need to remove the trim at all. At the seam where the A-pillar trim meets the headliner, you can just push the wire in between. Super easy!
Here is a very resent thread on the subject: https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...dwired-v1.html
Here is a very resent thread on the subject: https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...dwired-v1.html
#11
Hey guys, an update, for others who would also like to tap the roof console. As I said, I've always use the roof console to power radar detectors (very little draw) on over a dozen new cars, and never an issue. I was able to drop the console, but had to damage the clips, as expected; it's a lousy system, designed NOT to be removed. It was a nightmare to be able to reinstall it tight enough not to be loose (I have high standards. Ha ha). Therefore, I DO NOT recommend using this method. Again, on 911s and Boxsters/Caymans, it's super easy. Anyway, I was able to find switched power from the closest connector (3 wires), but ran into a worse problem: Even with the longest MirrorTap cable (15"), it wasn't long enough by millimeters. I obviously found out when everything was put back together; pulled a little too hard, and disconnected the cable from the connectors (several lead sizes available) I had secured with electrical tape. So I'm back to square one. Ha ha. Will just cut the cable and WILL NOT go back in there... unless I could order the 4 replacement clips I messed up. Does anybody know if they're available, and part number info? I'd be greatly appreciated.
So will use the fuse method. So to be clear, you guys bury the cable behind the rubber door seal and A-pillar trim, correct? Then jump from the A-pillar to the front top of the windshield following the A-pillar, where it meets the roof headliner, correct? Guess the headliner has enough give to allow burying the cable in there. Just hope neither the headliner nor A-pillar trim ends up with a bulge due to the cable. It wouldn't be acceptable to me. Please somebody let me know those details. Need to order a hardwire kit and an add-a-fuse. The link above only has one picture of the right side fuse box, which is excellent help. Thank you again gang.
So will use the fuse method. So to be clear, you guys bury the cable behind the rubber door seal and A-pillar trim, correct? Then jump from the A-pillar to the front top of the windshield following the A-pillar, where it meets the roof headliner, correct? Guess the headliner has enough give to allow burying the cable in there. Just hope neither the headliner nor A-pillar trim ends up with a bulge due to the cable. It wouldn't be acceptable to me. Please somebody let me know those details. Need to order a hardwire kit and an add-a-fuse. The link above only has one picture of the right side fuse box, which is excellent help. Thank you again gang.
#12
So will use the fuse method. So to be clear, you guys bury the cable behind the rubber door seal and A-pillar trim, correct? Then jump from the A-pillar to the front top of the windshield following the A-pillar, where it meets the roof headliner, correct? Guess the headliner has enough give to allow burying the cable in there. Just hope neither the headliner nor A-pillar trim ends up with a bulge due to the cable. It wouldn't be acceptable to me. Please somebody let me know those details. Need to order a hardwire kit and an add-a-fuse. The link above only has one picture of the right side fuse box, which is excellent help. Thank you again gang.
#13
On a side note, just started the car, and the freaking airbag warning light is lit. Geez. I turned the ignition on several times when looking for switched power, and didn't reconnect the passenger status connector. Could remove radar and take it to dealer, but prefer not to do that. It's just a matter of erasing the codes. Do any of you have the 'iCarsoft' thingy or some other alternative to erase codes?
Finally, called the local Porsche dealer and they sell the freaking clips for the roof console. I could swear the rear ones were different, but they 'suspect' all are the same. Can somebody confirm if they are or not? And now I might just buy a 20" MirrorTap cable that's newly available at Blendmount. That way I can install the clips and the console would fit back like factory. But the clips would cost like $36, and the 2 split mirror end caps $4, so about $40, Plus $45 for the 20" cable. Might go that route to reinstall the console properly. But now have to deal with the stupid airbag fault. Will try to erase it with my OBDII tool with ABS and airbags. And yes, should have done it with the freaking fuse on this car from the get go. Ha ha. Will keep you posted.
#14
Hey, one last question on the installation. Just went to pop the fuse lid, and the hardest area where to tuck the cable behind would be the 1" area from the fusebox to the A-pillar. Can't see how to tuck the cable there. Do you happen to have a picture of your car? If there's a bulge there, guess it's not a big deal, but want to know how you tackle that area. Thanks.
#15
Hey Rasetsu, I could live with that. Ha ha. Better than leaving a bulge, so well thought out. The airbag light is because I disconnected the passenger sensor module by the mirror. There's nothing wrong with the car; just need to erase the code. That iCarsoft POR II has terrible reviews, but at least one person said it worked to erase an airbag light. Will ask a local Porsche indy and see how much he charges. Otherwise might have to roll the dice and buy that thing. The good news is it's good to reset maintenance warnings too, and many other things, like electronic parking brake activation, battery changes, etc. Was thinking that maybe disconnecting the battery might reset it, but that's usually the case with soft codes, not hard ones (illuminated on the dash).
Last edited by JCtx; 02-08-2019 at 02:23 AM.