Brake failure at VIR - lesson learned
About 25 minutes into the first session today I had a catastrophic brake failure coming into turn 4. Had it happened on the back straight, I'd probably be in the hospital or morgue right now. The front driver's side caliper bolt dislodged from the upright which caused my caliper to come undone, which in turn tore up my wheel and tire. The caliper bolt still has all its threads, so the issue wasn't with the bolt or caliper. As many have noted, changing brakes frequently can be an issue when you have to take your calipers off and they are secured to an aluminum upright. In the incident today, it all happened relatively quickly, and it left a gaping hole in my tire and meant I was reduced to driving on 3 tires. BTW - the car pushes a bit in this situation - not recommended. A perfect weather weekend at VIR is shot; next weekend at Road Atlanta is shot; but hey, at least I'm alive.
My Cayman S has the GT4 bodywork, DSC controller, tractive coilovers, tarret suspension bits (drop links, toe links, solid bushings), R7 tires (235/295), race headers, plenum, TB, Cobb tune (engine and PDK). Compared to my GT3, I'm faster through most corners and only lose time on the straights. BTW - the recent Cobb PDK tune is awesome; my upshifts and downships are dramatically crisper than the stock setting and much more like my GT3.
Which brings me to the main lesson learned I want to share. If you are tracking your car a lot (in my case, today was track day 61 with the Cayman), I'd suggest you do two things: 1) put in caliper studs so you avoid the specific issue I had, and 2) look at the Clubsport maintenance schedule and decide what items are considered "consumables" if you are driving the car really hard. This may seem obvious to many of you, but it wasn't for me. The car had run great and never had an issue so I got complacent. The light bulbs should have gone off when I snapped an axle in my GT3 and some folks on RL said this just doesn't happen. Well, it does, and axles are considered consumables on cup cars. The uprights, where the caliper bolts attach, are also considered a consumable in cup cars, but not in street cars. I'm now refactoring all my expense costs based on my incident today, and have come to the realization that I should have just bought a real race car if I planned to drive at this frequency and at this level. The costs would have been a bit higher, but I'd least I'd be a lot safer with a full cage.
I spec'd my .2 GT3 as more of a street car, with lots of leather and PCCBs since I was already considering a move to a dedicated track car. Today probably sealed the deal - I'm headed in the direction of a real race car and a real race car maintenance schedule. I got really lucky today and I hope this post causes a few others to rethink their trajectory and move to a safer game plan.
Last edited by Sven76; Oct 23, 2017 at 06:29 PM.
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About 25 minutes into the first session today I had a catastrophic brake failure coming into turn 4. Had it happened on the back straight, I'd probably be in the hospital or morgue right now. The front driver's side caliper bolt dislodged from the upright which caused my caliper to come undone, which in turn tore up my wheel and tire. The caliper bolt still has all its threads, so the issue wasn't with the bolt or caliper. As many have noted, changing brakes frequently can be an issue when you have to take your calipers off and they are secured to an aluminum upright. In the incident today, it all happened relatively quickly, and it left a gaping hole in my tire and meant I was reduced to driving on 3 tires. BTW - the car pushes a bit in this situation - not recommended. A perfect weather weekend at VIR is shot; next weekend at Road Atlanta is shot; but hey, at least I'm alive.
My Cayman S has the GT4 bodywork, DSC controller, tractive coilovers, tarret suspension bits (drop links, toe links, solid bushings), R7 tires (235/295), race headers, plenum, TB, Cobb tune (engine and PDK). Compared to my GT3, I'm faster through most corners and only lose time on the straights. BTW - the recent Cobb PDK tune is awesome; my upshifts and downships are dramatically crisper than the stock setting and much more like my GT3.
Which brings me to the main lesson learned I want to share. If you are tracking your car a lot (in my case, today was track day 61 with the Cayman), I'd suggest you do two things: 1) put in caliper studs so you avoid the specific issue I had, and 2) look at the Clubsport maintenance schedule and decide what items are considered "consumables" if you are driving the car really hard. This may seem obvious to many of you, but it wasn't for me. The car had run great and never had an issue so I got complacent. The light bulbs should have gone off when I snapped an axle in my GT3 and some folks on RL said this just doesn't happen. Well, it does, and axles are considered consumables on cup cars. The uprights, where the caliper bolts attach, are also considered a consumable in cup cars, but not in street cars. I'm now refactoring all my expense costs based on my incident today, and have come to the realization that I should have just bought a real race car if I planned to drive at this frequency and at this level. The costs would have been a bit higher, but I'd least I'd be a lot safer with a full cage.
I spec'd my .2 GT3 as more of a street car, with lots of leather and PCCBs since I was already considering a move to a dedicated track car. Today probably sealed the deal - I'm headed in the direction of a real race car and a real race car maintenance schedule. I got really lucky today and I hope this post causes a few others to rethink their trajectory and move to a safer game plan.
For this reason I don't track my street cars any longer, and happier (as well as safer) for it!




