Help! I let air in brake system by mistake
#1
Help! I let air in brake system by mistake
I feel so stupid! I messed up my brake bleed and let the air run into my brake lines with the Motive power bleeder as I was bleeding RR wheel. I've bled brakes before but this is the first time I mess it up like this. I just let it run for too long before adding fluid to the reservoir...
Has this happened to you on the GT4 or 981/718 platform? If you how did you come back from it? Any special procedure? Thanks!
Has this happened to you on the GT4 or 981/718 platform? If you how did you come back from it? Any special procedure? Thanks!
#2
I let this happen on the new BMW M Sport brakes. Took a lot of bleeding and pumping new brake fluid through system to get all the air out.
Just run fluid through all the corners again.
Chet
Just run fluid through all the corners again.
Chet
#3
I've also done it .. Use pressure from your bleeder and vacuum on the nipple with like a mighty vac at the same time . Takes a lot of fluid you'll probably need 2 to 3 L to get all the air out of the system.carl
#4
Thanks. Should I bleed both nipples per caliper or will the external one be enough snd save me the trouble of removing my wheels?
Also there's talk of cycling the ABS through Durametric. Is that a thing on the GT4?
Also there's talk of cycling the ABS through Durametric. Is that a thing on the GT4?
#5
Just happend to me replacing a line. Damaged the OE hard line creating a leak I couldn't stop. Major pain to replace the right rear hard line. Like others have said run fluid through till you clear the lines.
Post fixing your problem what I've done to avoid the air issue is to fill the reservoir to within an 1/8 inch of the top and use a turkey baster vacuum or whatever to remove about 2/3 of the fluid from the brake reservoir. Leave a safe level! I then put that fluid into my bleeder bottle. Set it on a level surface and use a paint marker to draw a line all the way around the fluid level in the bleeder bottle. You now have a visual on how far you can go before adding fluid. This assumes you are manually filling the reservoir with brake fluid and not adding fluid to the Motive. I don't like putting fluid into the Motive. It's worked for me for quite some time.
Post fixing your problem what I've done to avoid the air issue is to fill the reservoir to within an 1/8 inch of the top and use a turkey baster vacuum or whatever to remove about 2/3 of the fluid from the brake reservoir. Leave a safe level! I then put that fluid into my bleeder bottle. Set it on a level surface and use a paint marker to draw a line all the way around the fluid level in the bleeder bottle. You now have a visual on how far you can go before adding fluid. This assumes you are manually filling the reservoir with brake fluid and not adding fluid to the Motive. I don't like putting fluid into the Motive. It's worked for me for quite some time.
#6
I'm driving around in my car and the brakes feel pretty solid. What I notice is a small distance of pedal travel before brakes engage but somehow it feels more mechanical than hydraulic. Never noticed it before but the I was never hypervigilant to brake feel til I messed it up. My pads aren't new either.
#7
I never liked having fluid in the Motive. I only used it for air pressure. It was a pain having to contunily pump it up. So what I did was mount a fitting in the cap so I could connect an air hose. Just connect and set the pressure to 15 PSI and bleed. Make sure you release the pressure before you disconnect to refill the resavior . Much easer .. Carl
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#9
I never liked having fluid in the Motive. I only used it for air pressure. It was a pain having to contunily pump it up. So what I did was mount a fitting in the cap so I could connect an air hose. Just connect and set the pressure to 15 PSI and bleed. Make sure you release the pressure before you disconnect to refill the resavior . Much easer .. Carl
#12
I just went through this as noted in a previous post. I did not have to use PIWIS for the ABS. The car remained stationary and wasn't started. If the car had been driven and the brakes cycled that might have required using the PIWIS tool. No issues during my 2000 mi Smokies trip.
#13
I also use only air. You can get the cap with a air hose connection from Motive I believe. I only use 5-10 psi and that seems to work fine as well. Once you set that up and get the tires off, it is really fast to bleed all 8 connections.
I have a Lexus IS350 and rebuilt the calipers. After bleeding, the pedal goes down farther than it did initially. The tech manual does say I need to get a computer to exercise/bleed the ABS. Have not done that yet, but will take it in and hopefully it is a simple/cheap process.
I have a Lexus IS350 and rebuilt the calipers. After bleeding, the pedal goes down farther than it did initially. The tech manual does say I need to get a computer to exercise/bleed the ABS. Have not done that yet, but will take it in and hopefully it is a simple/cheap process.
Last edited by aryork; 05-07-2017 at 12:08 PM.
#14
I do the same. You can get the cap with a air hose connection from Motive I believe. I only use 5-10 psi and that seems to work fine as well. Once you set that up and get the tires off, it is really fast to bleed all 8 connections.
I have a Lexus IS350 and rebuilt the calipers. After bleeding, the pedal goes down farther than it did. The tech manual does say I need to get a computer to exercise/bleed the ABS. Have not done that yet, but will take it in and hopefully it is a simple/cheap process.
I have a Lexus IS350 and rebuilt the calipers. After bleeding, the pedal goes down farther than it did. The tech manual does say I need to get a computer to exercise/bleed the ABS. Have not done that yet, but will take it in and hopefully it is a simple/cheap process.
#15
On lotus sometimes the best way to get all the air out after changing the caliper was to remove the caliper from the hub and hold it up high with the bleeder nipple straight up. Make sure you put a pice of wood in between the pads so you don't blow out a piston. Carl