strandolph

I don't have the wheels for 265 front, but I just installed a set of 245/35ZR-19 295/35ZR-19 FALKEN AZENIS RT660 XL after waiting three months for SC3R's. Headed to VIR this weekend. I'll report back...

jwr9152

I've run RE71 and Supercar 3's back to back and honestly don't think there is a big difference in performance between the two.

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/ar...ear-tire-test/

Phokaioglaukos

Time to order. Any late breaking info?

strandolph

The fresh, deep-treaded Falkens were comparable around VIR to the Supercar 3R's. Best with 3R's was 2:10:50, with RT660 was 2:11:10.

m3bs

That was my experience at CMP as well. I was actually slightly faster on the Falkens but I attribute that to me learning the car better. They were also good to go after half a lap, instead of half a session like the Goodyears.

Phokaioglaukos

Thanks for the help, but I guess I lost track of time and now all that seems available are the Cup2s in advance of a mid-June event.

Five12Free

you might be able to get the RE-71RS by then. They are scheduled to ship early June.

9eight7

The very 1st post did a great job laying out alignment recommendations. I spoke with a race shop this morning and lots of the info here matches what they said.

ZG911

After running Bridgestone RE71R's for years at trackdays, I was wondering if I can change sizes of the rubber since they no longer make the front tire in my size.
There are also no EAGLE F1 SUPERCAR 3 in stock in the USA, which would be my next choice to try.
I am running Forgeline 19x9, 19x10.5, GS1R wheels.
I have previously been running 265/35/19 (Front), 285/35/19 (rear).
Bridgestone no longer make the RE71RS in a 265/35/19, but the make a 255/35/19 and I wanted to know what people think of running a slightly smaller size?

My only option that I can find in the 265/35/19 & 285/35/19 is the Proxie R888R which some people have been mentioning on this site as "not a good choice"

Does anyone have any recommendations for tires in my size for track days?

jreifler

I've had both those sizes before on the same size GA1Rs with no issues. You won't notice a difference that small. What can cause problems is substantial differences in overall diameter / aspect ratio from stock. If you get too far out of range (no idea exactly what that range is), it will confuse the ECU parameters for TC / SC.

electron mike

I bought a few sets of new Goodyear Supercar 3 in 265/35/19 and 285/35/19 if you are interested in a set I will sell you one as they are lasting quite a bit longer on track than I expected.

Fredman6

Hello, have a ‘22 718 GT4. Getting corner balance and track alignment done next week. After reading above recommendations, I’m shooting for:-2.7 to -3 Front Camber with 0 Toe

-2.3 to -2.6 Rear Camber with 3mm Toe In

Appears best to keep rear camber 0.5 less than front.

Car will be used 90% on track and AX. I have the front thrust bearing for correcting caster and the rear toe links with lockouts.

What ride height and take is recommended? I want aggressive for track, want to reduce stock understeer but I do not want any tire rubbing.

Thanks, Fred.

AngeloGTS

I have a set of OZ 245/40/19 and 285/35/19 that I purchased from the seller of my GT4 when I got it back in November.

But now Im wondering whether to sell those and pick up Apex SM10s in 265/35/19 and 285/35/19 instead.

In both cases I will likely run re71r. Just wondering if the additional width is going to justify the investment.

Feralc

Question for the experts
I own a 981 GT4 that I occasionally track, my main use is weekends canyon driving (a very aggressive one on very empty roads here in SoCal, so please don’t give me a lecture about safety)
A friend recommended me to align the car, the shop installed 10mm shims and said the rear toe links were not necessary as I use it for canyons more often than track.

So now the difference between F and R camber is twice as much now (-2.6 vs -1.3), I didn’t like the stock understeer but now I feel the car is tail happy. On a wide track having the rear more loose might suit some drivers because of rotation, on narrower canyons not so much.

Yes I can pull 1.5 lat G on canyons now (before I never passed the ocasional 1.4) but it is so close to the limit than the rear breaks loose without any warning, and that basically reduced my confidence (on and off track)
I’d prefer a more balanced but aggressive approach.
Can I achieve this by installing the rear toe links to increase the R camber to a (maybe) -2 degrees, just to reduce the gap to the -2.6 in the front? And without going through a expense rabbit hole and having to replace more parts to achieve this (adjustable thrust arms, etc)

Here’s my current setup, as you can see the difference between F and R is a LOT.
(Note the “before” numbers were with the shims already installed but the steering wheel was tilted to one side, that’s why the camber is so aggressive on the “before” but my real before camber was a very stock -1.

If somebody says to play with the tire pressures to compensate, usually what I do on the track to keep it simple and consistent is begin with the recommended 29/33 and then start bleeding to keep the same tire pressure but when hot. An instructor told me that was the perfect balance to improve handling while keeping tire life
thanks in advance

milrad

Camber is not likely to be your issue.

What settings are you running on your anti-roll bars? Move the rear bar one setting softer and it will likely solve your problem.