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You need more rear toe in. I used to have the same problem with my 987.2 spyder. While I'm sure a better lsd will help, rear toe in is the solution. I run 3mm toe in each side or 6mm total. Also make sure you aren't mixing front/rear brake compounds
I agree with @orthojoe..I fixed my braking problem with increasing toe on my 981 GTS. I had extreme wagging under hard braking coming into turn 2 at MRLS,
Increasing toe, cured it! I thought I was going to have the back end come around at one point before increasing toe!
I agree with @orthojoe..I fixed my braking problem with increasing toe on my 981 GTS. I had extreme wagging under hard braking coming into turn 2 at MRLS,
Increasing toe, cured it! I thought I was going to have the back end come around at one point before increasing toe!
Yeah. It's really unnerving. I felt the same way at t1 at thill until rear toe was added. Zero wag after the alignment change.
I ran 3mm toe in each side in the spyder and the GT3. GT4 is having the same setup done right now. It helps stabilize the car on corner exit too so you can power down earlier as well
Yeah. It's really unnerving. I felt the same way at t1 at thill until rear toe was added. Zero wag after the alignment change.
I ran 3mm toe in each side in the spyder and the GT3. GT4 is having the same setup done right now. It helps stabilize the car on corner exit too so you can power down earlier as well
Wow, that's ~1/8" or on these tires ~15' per wheel. I just got an alignment after getting toe links and thrust arm bushings installed and had the tech set the rear to the stock 10' per wheel, but I guess if I experience wag I'll see how this recommendation works if it's proven on track despite being out of spec. I'm thinking that much toe might create excessive tire wear on the road since mine is a dual-purpose car, though -- is that warranted? Thanks for the data point though!
Wow, that's ~1/8" or on these tires ~15' per wheel. I just got an alignment after getting toe links and thrust arm bushings installed and had the tech set the rear to the stock 10' per wheel, but I guess if I experience wag I'll see how this recommendation works if it's proven on track despite being out of spec. I'm thinking that much toe might create excessive tire wear on the road since mine is a dual-purpose car, though -- is that warranted? Thanks for the data point though!
Clubsport spec is ~17' per rear wheel ! It's the first thing I noticed from just plain sight when I saw this pic. This chassis must simply like/need a lot of rear toe. I never paid attention to anything about the 981, but remember hearing some whispers/complaints of the new rear geometry, compared to the 987.
Wow, that's ~1/8" or on these tires ~15' per wheel. I just got an alignment after getting toe links and thrust arm bushings installed and had the tech set the rear to the stock 10' per wheel, but I guess if I experience wag I'll see how this recommendation works if it's proven on track despite being out of spec. I'm thinking that much toe might create excessive tire wear on the road since mine is a dual-purpose car, though -- is that warranted? Thanks for the data point though!
Depends on how much street use I guess. No issues for me, but most street miles on my P cars are from traveling to/from the track.
Here is an interesting one. I took mine out for it's first real track session yesterday at our local track (Phillip Island - Australia). Basically the car is still as delivered from the dealer. Another mate also had his GT4 there.
T3 for us is a fast left that has a big stop into a hairpin right after it. My car I could not take the fast left flat out and get the car stopped (around 190km.hr - sorry for the metric thing) - I had to have a small lift and brake as soon as the car was straight in order to make the corner. I could not brake at 100% effort or else the car would do the whole kill-deathy rear swap thing.
My mates car he could easily take the corner flat and brake around 20m later than I was and his car shows no sign of this death wobble.
The only real difference between the 2 was his car has Michelins and I have Dunlops - but neither of us have yet seen what the alignment is on our cars. But certainly his is far more stable under brakes than mine is currently, but I expect we'll see a good alignment will make a big difference on these things.
Here is an interesting one. I took mine out for it's first real track session yesterday at our local track (Phillip Island - Australia). Basically the car is still as delivered from the dealer. Another mate also had his GT4 there.
T3 for us is a fast left that has a big stop into a hairpin right after it. My car I could not take the fast left flat out and get the car stopped (around 190km.hr - sorry for the metric thing) - I had to have a small lift and brake as soon as the car was straight in order to make the corner. I could not brake at 100% effort or else the car would do the whole kill-deathy rear swap thing.
My mates car he could easily take the corner flat and brake around 20m later than I was and his car shows no sign of this death wobble.
The only real difference between the 2 was his car has Michelins and I have Dunlops - but neither of us have yet seen what the alignment is on our cars. But certainly his is far more stable under brakes than mine is currently, but I expect we'll see a good alignment will make a big difference on these things.
Yeah, there seems to be a huge range in the "as delivered" alignment even after the suspension has settled on GT4s, so that could account for the differences in your cars. But if you'll be going to the track often, save yourself the cost of 2 alignments and just order the Tarett caster-adjustable thrust arm bushings and rear toe links (plus an RSS shim kit if the shop you'll be using doesn't keep them on hand) so you can get a proper alignment right from the start.
Clubsport was also designed and set up around Michelin slicks. No relevance to street GT4
Agree to a point. The toe info could be a useful reference point, for when you start adding more balance or front grip. I think it also infers toward the balance of the car, not just that it's on slicks.
The street car is running smaller front wheels, track, and tires than clubsport. It's also got larger rear wheels, and about as much (or more) tire than the clubsport.
I'm sure the Clubsport is way more neutral out of the box, hence more rear toe. Maybe I'm wrong.
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