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My GT4 Trackday Journey - Setup, Pics, Vids & More

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Old 11-03-2015 | 04:17 PM
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I just was at the track on sat. F-.1. R-1.5 toe F 0 R 16". bars both middle full areo. I had push on steady throttle could rotate by letting off.

What do you think about leaving the front bar in the middle and going full stiff rear VS middle rear and full soft front? I really don't want more front lean because it chews up the outside edge of the front tires. thanks carl
Old 11-03-2015 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Quikag
Yep, that sound reasonable to me based on the overall performance envelope of the GT4 especially on Cup 2's. We should know soon with cooler air and a lot of track days coming up! My Vette is a lot faster than the GT4, but it should be with slicks and 250+ more horsepower.

Looking forward to pushing the GT4 more on track and meeting you sometime!
For sure. I will keep an eye out for your Vette and the GT4.

If you see either of these feel free to swing by.


Last edited by 9001rpm; 11-03-2015 at 04:52 PM.
Old 11-03-2015 | 04:48 PM
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Will do! I'm sure I'll be out there soon in the GT4. Thanks again.
Old 11-03-2015 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 9001rpm
For sure. I will keep an eye out for your Vette and the GT4.

If you see either these feels free to swing by.

Oh, oh, looks like that white thing had an accident. Jealous?
Old 11-03-2015 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 4carl
I just was at the track on sat. F-.1. R-1.5 toe F 0 R 16". bars both middle full areo. I had push on steady throttle could rotate by letting off.

What do you think about leaving the front bar in the middle and going full stiff rear VS middle rear and full soft front? I really don't want more front lean because it chews up the outside edge of the front tires. thanks carl
From what I recall your front was -1.9. I am assuming the above was an error (I forget words/numbers all the time too).

Someone with more knowledge than myself may be able to better answer your sway bar question.

Here is my personal approach to settings up cars...

I always focus on the front end first then work backwards. If you feel concerned about outside tire wear up front I would dial in more negative camber. I wouldn't try and mitigate it by adding roll resistance.

If you have steady state push you have 3 options in my opinion.

1.) Add more front grip via sway bar and/or camber

2.) Remove rear grip via the rear sway bar (would try this only after doing #1). You can try this first if you wish though... Again it is just different than my own personal approach.

3.) Back down mid corner speeds until the front end bites and then roll back on the gas (basically just manage the push). Granted this is probably going to have you eating front tires like candy.

Hope this helps and feel free to ignore my input. Unfortunately car setup is very driver depenant and sometimes just takes a lot of trial and error to see what works for each person.
Old 11-03-2015 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by smmmurf
What, specifically, are the "shims" that were required? Did you have plenty of rear adjustment or is the alignment maxed there on both sides?
Think of them as spacers that go on the lower control arm. They effectively push the bottom of the wheel outwards which results in more negative camber.

The rear is pretty much maxed out at -1.5 as you are limited by your toe adjustment. Basically you can't get the toe set properly without messing up the camber after exceeding -1.5 to -1.6.

I could potentially dial in slightly more front camber but I would want additional camber in the rear (which is not a option with the factory adjustments).

I may looks at aftermarket pieces for additional adjustment down the road. For now I will enjoy the car as is and see what I can do within the factory limits.
Old 11-03-2015 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ExMB
Oh, oh, looks like that white thing had an accident. Jealous?
Nah, she just drools a little when she is sleeping.
Old 11-03-2015 | 05:31 PM
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Great to see more and more people tracking the GT4! I have been to three track days so far and absoulty love the car. I am running stock alignment and both bars on the middle setting. I also have the aero mods done. I have found that low tire pressures produce more grip and have found 25-26 front and 29-30 rear set cold.

We have a track day tommorrow and myself as 2 other GT4 owners will be attending. I want to try and do one session with the setup above and was thinking to do the second session with the rear bar moved from middle to stiff.

Reading this post i see that the recomendation is to go soft on the front first. My question is what is the difference between going stiff back/middle front VS middle back/soft front?
Old 11-03-2015 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by BRNGT4
Great to see more and more people tracking the GT4! I have been to three track days so far and absoulty love the car. I am running stock alignment and both bars on the middle setting. I also have the aero mods done. I have found that low tire pressures produce more grip and have found 25-26 front and 29-30 rear set cold.

We have a track day tommorrow and myself as 2 other GT4 owners will be attending. I want to try and do one session with the setup above and was thinking to do the second session with the rear bar moved from middle to stiff.

Reading this post i see that the recomendation is to go soft on the front first. My question is what is the difference between going stiff back/middle front VS middle back/soft front?
What pressures were you running hot? i was 34&36 hot on MPSC2's. carl
Old 11-03-2015 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by BRNGT4
We have a track day tommorrow and myself as 2 other GT4 owners will be attending. I want to try and do one session with the setup above and was thinking to do the second session with the rear bar moved from middle to stiff.

Reading this post i see that the recomendation is to go soft on the front first. My question is what is the difference between going stiff back/middle front VS middle back/soft front?
Good question and as I admitted above it is outside my realm of expertise. I am just passing on what works for me based on past experience. It would be nice if we had idea how the roll resistance increases based on the different settings (for example a table supplied via Porsche with actual values).

Again, I just prefer the concept of focusing on the front in first.

Option 1: you are taking away grip from the rear

Option 2: you are adding grip to the front

My personal experience has been the front sway bar adjustment has a larger impact on handling dynamics versus the rear... Therefore I start there first .
Old 11-03-2015 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 9001rpm
Think of them as spacers that go on the lower control arm. They effectively push the bottom of the wheel outwards which results in more negative camber.

The rear is pretty much maxed out at -1.5 as you are limited by your toe adjustment. Basically you can't get the toe set properly without messing up the camber after exceeding -1.5 to -1.6.

I could potentially dial in slightly more front camber but I would want additional camber in the rear (which is not a option with the factory adjustments).

I may looks at aftermarket pieces for additional adjustment down the road. For now I will enjoy the car as is and see what I can do within the factory limits.
Thank you for the detail. I utilized a method that sounded quite similar on my E36 M3. It's easy, quick, and reliable. Glad to hear a similar way works on the GT4. I will want something close to your settings when my car arrives.

http://m3pink.blogspot.com/2011/12/e...ic-camber.html

As an aside, I have an '04 S2000 as well. It's an amazing platform!
Old 11-03-2015 | 07:45 PM
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I'll be interested to hear your report in the dry at MSR. I ran MSR 1.7 at the PCA event a few weeks ago with the factory alignment. Started with the back sway at full hard and the front in the middle: fairly neutral in most corners except for Wagon wheel and Horseshoe (uphill off camber). Changed the front sway to full hard and that seemed to improve, but not completely get rid of the push. My frustration was that being used to a 911 it was much harder to achieve a consistent lift throttle rotation in the GT4 to counteract the push. My track app did not work so I was not able to get any times.

I have since gone to Park Place for an alignment. Steven installed RSS rear toe links, shims, and did an alignment: -2 degrees in the front, -1.7 in the back. What is interesting is that he widened the track as part of the alignment. By about 14mm in the back and 7mm in the front. I am back at the track in a couple of weeks and will get a chance to see how this setup works.
Old 11-03-2015 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by rickdm
I have since gone to Park Place for an alignment. Steven installed RSS rear toe links, shims, and did an alignment: -2 degrees in the front, -1.7 in the back. What is interesting is that he widened the track as part of the alignment. By about 14mm in the back and 7mm in the front.
Widened it by adding spacer? Or how did you come up with those #s?
Old 11-03-2015 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by rickdm
I'll be interested to hear your report in the dry at MSR. I ran MSR 1.7 at the PCA event a few weeks ago with the factory alignment. Started with the back sway at full hard and the front in the middle: fairly neutral in most corners except for Wagon wheel and Horseshoe (uphill off camber). Changed the front sway to full hard and that seemed to improve, but not completely get rid of the push. My frustration was that being used to a 911 it was much harder to achieve a consistent lift throttle rotation in the GT4 to counteract the push. My track app did not work so I was not able to get any times.

I have since gone to Park Place for an alignment. Steven installed RSS rear toe links, shims, and did an alignment: -2 degrees in the front, -1.7 in the back. What is interesting is that he widened the track as part of the alignment. By about 14mm in the back and 7mm in the front. I am back at the track in a couple of weeks and will get a chance to see how this setup works.
I am assuming you mean the PCA event at MSR on the 14th and 15th. I have never ran with them and was debating on seeing if the need additional volunteers.

I am however slightly confused as you mentioned changing your front swaybar to "full hard" to help dial out push.
Old 11-03-2015 | 08:07 PM
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Sorry, meat to say full soft in the front.

The way he got the wider track was by taking the top mount for the strut, pushing it out, and then adding more spacers and the adjustable toe link to get the correct camber.


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