Have a 981 Sypder. Convertible top has a "rib" about over passenger head, not quite as stout as other support elements, that's encased in fabric and glued (as near as I can tell) to the main roof fabric. About a third of the glued fabric has separated from the main roof fabric--about 18" or so. Would like to reattach.

When the roof is released (first step in retracting roof), the tension on the main roof fabric and rib is released and I can bring the fabric together. Was thinking of using a viscous/gel-like cyanoacrylate (SuperGlue) and working an inch or so at a time to reattach. Need something that sets quickly, as I'd imagine my ability to maintain steady, adequate pressure on the weld would be a few minutes at most. Gel-like SG would probably make less of a mess than thin liquid variety.

Have tried searching RL and not found this but will admit my lack of search expertise. If there are threads dealing with this, please provide the link.

If you've run into this, how did you fix? Does my incremental SuperGlue method seem plausible?

Anyone know if the "rib" actually is glued to main roof fabric? If so, is SuperGlue appropriate or is there another, preferred adhesive?

 

Can you take a pic or two to show this? I bet several of us would like to check ours to see if there is a similar problem lurking...

 

Looking forward from passenger seat. Sun visor at bottom of pic. Gap about 12-18". Still attached over driver's side and extreme right side.

Index finger through gap. Similar picture orientation as first pic.

Pic from driver's seat, looking over to passenger side. Index finger through gap pointing forward. "Rib" wrapped in cloth and glued to main roof fabric extends from upper left of photo to index finger in gap.

 

Exact same thing has happened to mine and a few others which I have read about on this forum. Mine is a ‘16. I brought it to my local Porsche dealer and at first they ordered a repair kit - I guess under the impression it would come with the necessary adhesive. Unfortunately it did not. They ended up ordering an entirely new top and it’s still currently being installed. Anxious to see how it’s going to turn out. I’ll post another update when I get her back. Hoping this week.

 

Extended warranty, or paying yourself? If i guessed at cost of new top + labor, I'd probably still be low, LOL. Even with warranty replacement, I'd worry about same issue down the road.

No warranty for me so I'll give it a try soon.

What is it with Porsche and adhesives? I have a 958.1 Cayenne and that series has an issue with glued in coolant pipes failing. Repair involves replacing with a unit that has screwed in pipes.

 

I just bought it back in Feb and despite it being almost 7 years old - it’s a CPO, so the new/replacement parts and labor is on Porsche - thankfully!

 

Just checked and luckily no separation. 16K miles, original owner. I never leave the top either up or down for extended periods and it luckily is rarely outside in direct sunlight unless I'm driving it. Have a couple friends with both 981 and 718 spyders- will have them check as well.

 

Well, now that I've seen a number of threads I'm a little worried about my top. It's in good shape right now but should it come undone it seems like a costly fix. I currently have a Fidelity Platinum warranty but it doesn't cover convertible tops. I remember a little while back seeing a post by someone saying they had a third party warranty that does cover convertible tops. Does anyone have that info?

 

Did the repair yesterday. Pretty easy and I've written down some thoughts on the process.

Tools/supplies: Really the only thing needed is adhesive but the other things I've listed make the job easier.

1. Adhesive: Cyanoacrylate (e.g. "SuperGlue", "Krazy Glue", etc.). I'm not an adhesive nor auto interior expert but seemed like requirements for this repair were: strong, flexible and quick curing/drying. I used Krazy Glue that comes with a small brush (like nail polish brush) which worked well. Viscous, gel-like formulations would probably also work well. Standard, thin viscosity formulations probably not so much. One issue is control of application as you're applying this overhead. Another is that the fabric will absorb a lot of the adhesive, probably more of an issue with low viscosity formulations. If you know more about adhesives and convertible top repair than I do, please share.
2. Drop cloth(s): Not really needed but if you're like me, the time you omit to use them is the time there's a drip.
3. Black nitrile gloves: Again, not strictly needed but welding your fingers together is, at best, a PITA. I chose black so that if any of the glove bonded to the fabric, it would be less noticeable than any other color.
4. Head lamp: Helps to see what you're doing. If you have a work light with a magnetic base, the supports for the convertible top are steel and are usable.
5. 2"x4" blocks: Used a couple to prop the top open enough to release tension. This makes pressing the fabric together much easier.

Procedure:

1. Release convertible top and fold all the way back (down). Not needed if you're not using drop cloth(s). Not even needed if you are, but I found it easier to lay them out with top down.
2. Arrange drop cloths. I covered seat, dash, and center console. Sit in the seat you'll be using as the cloth's will move and easier to adjust with top down.
3. Bring top back up, as if you were going to close it all the way.
4. Use 2"x4" blocks to prop open the top about 4". I used two blocks between the top and upper edge of the windshield.
5. Get in seat closest to repair site. I found it easier to leave door open when I did repair. After glue application (see below), I found it easiest to put the glue bottle on the floor outside of the car.
6. Arrange lighting. I used an LED strip headlamp and a LED worklight with magnetic base.
7. Examine the area to be repaired. On mine, there was some glue/adhesive residue which marked where I needed to apply the repair glue. Would probably have been best to remove this but I was leery of using solvents on the roof and the amount there didn't seem excessive.
8. I started at the detached edge closest to the center worked outward as I felt that starting at the outward edge and working inward ran the risk of extra fabric bunching up at the end of the repair.
9. Apply glue to a 2-3" segment of both the roof and the detached fabric, then use your fingers to push up hold the detached fabric up against the roof for at least a minute. You'll need to work in small segments because the CA glue will cure quickly and will also absorb into the fabric. Holding the repair up for a minute doesn't sound like much but you will tire fairly quickly.
10. Sometimes the repair didn't bond adequately. Reapplication of adhesive worked for me in such situations.
11. When done, leave the roof propped slightly open for at least a few hours (I left mine overnight) without tension on the repair. When I checked this morning, there was a short segment of about an inch that hadn't bonded so I reapplied glue. Let sit for an hour and it held.
12. Remove blocks propping roof partially open, close top completely and check for integrity. Repair as needed.

Overall, this seems to be working and was easy but tedious. Obviously much easier to do if a smaller segment involved so I plan on checking my top frequently.

 

Wow, what a tremendous writeup! i just so happened to pickup my spyder from the local porsche dealership this past saturday. my top had the same issue. they originally thought a porsche repair kit would do the trick, but once they received it - it was not going to solve the prob. they ultimately ordered a brand new top. they had my vehicle since april. first they had to order the failed repair kit. then a replacement top, then had several subsequent orders (and additional wait times) for 'rivets'. not sure exactly what for, but it sounded VERY tedious. not just a matter of removing one top and replacing it with the new one. there are parts which are destroyed or must be replaced in addition to the top. my salesman is friends with the tech who performed the replacement, and he said the tech was borderline ready to tender his resignation over it - LOL. i take that to mean it's not a DIY job. i asked my service exec out of curiosity how much labor was involved. she said there were over 27 hours of labor clocked against it. obviously not all in one window. it was a job which took about 2 weeks from start to finish, once all parts were acquired. by my math of their labor (which i think their rate is about $230/hr) - the installation and top including parts and labor must exceed $10k.

i say all that... because it may cause many to follow your process above and attempt a repair in the interest of the time/expense associated with a new one.

a note on my new installation (which may also apply to your repair)... it will take about a month for the new top to stretch to shape. it's tighter than a piano wire right now! they instructed me not to open it for several days and if possible to let it bake in the sun. i questioned that logic, so i went to my friend google.com. i found that the normal stretch-in duration for a new porsche top is about a month... so i will wait til next month to open her up. i must say though... it looks like it just rolled out of the factory! it's absolutely perfect. the fit is amazing, not a single or subtle wrinkle in the entire thing. makes the car which already looked fantastic - brand new!

 

Appreciate the write up!

 

Thanks to DrBillyD I took his writeup, some magnetic tape and took to the task. My wife and I sure had some fun with this one - as you'll see. All kidding aside, I do think a glue up is a viable way to go if you're out of warranty and want to prevent/stop the droop here. All the best, D

 

That strap detached on my car a couple years ago. It’s never really bothered me so I’ve left it be. There is a local upholstery shop that will do a repair for me if I ever want to take the time to get it over there. I am the original owner and have put 33k miles on my car.

 

Just get some black duck tape...

 

So, turns out that this glue didn't do that well over time at not 'expanding and spreading'. Not sure what the right glue is, but it's not what we used here. Has a bit of a 'candle wax' look to it. Thankfully, it's October in AZ and that top won't be up for 6 months! All the best.