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They also widened the rear track by 8mm (5/16") which I didn't know at the time of adding shims.
On the 4RS, the 8mm increase in rear track was accomplished by something other than LCA shims? If so, sounds like whereas on the std GT4 you can just shim out the rears to gain more camber, on the RS you need to do camber plates to avoid this rubbing issue.
On the 4RS, the 8mm increase in rear track was accomplished by something other than LCA shims? If so, sounds like whereas on the std GT4 you can just shim out the rears to gain more camber, on the RS you need to do camber plates to avoid this rubbing issue.
It's only more shims. GT4 came with 7mm front and 3mm rear shims and the RS came with 10mm front & 7mm rear shims. So that's an extra 3mm front & 4mm rear for the RS which would explain the wider track of 7mm front & 8mm rear. Guess geometry-wise it's probably not 1:1 but close enough, plus they surely round of to whole millimeters.
The Manthey kit I bought for the GT4 came with two 2mm and two 10mm shims. I ended up running 10+2=12 front & 7+3=10 rear. Then when I took it off I couldn't remember whether 2 or 3 was original and ended up putting on 7 and 2, thus leaving me with 10 & 3 for the RS.
For the RS I then moved the rear 7 to the front running 10+7= 17 and dropping in the 10+3= 13 in the rear. This means 5 more front & 3 more rear. Rule of thumb (and I measured and it is very close) is that 10 mm shim equals -1° camber. So it seems very logic that I went from -2.2° to -2.5° rear camber. Excentric bolts almost fully used. Still some adjustability to deal with minor deviations left/right.
It still boggles me that this setup rubs with stock tyres since I'm only running 3mm wider stance each side compared to my old setup and this mathematically should leave me with 2 mm more clearance. (305-295)/2 - 3 = 2 . But I know the AR-1s have very straight and sturdy side walls and the Dunlop has a rounder and softer side wall and tyre manufacturers probably do not measure their sections exactly the same way either.
Picked up a set before the end of the season from Mathieu at Immocars who was a pleasure to deal with. Super fast shipping and very reasonable price for the quality. I was getting some significant fender rub with Apex SM10's 19x11 in the rear and needed more camber to fix. The rear camber plates did the trick and allow us to dial in significantly more camber than stock while maintaining geometry in the rear. Changes helped shave a full second on our home track and no more rubbing ... so HIGHLY recommended and a definite MUST even with stock wheels as I was getting some slight rub with OEM setup as well.
It's only more shims. GT4 came with 7mm front and 3mm rear shims and the RS came with 10mm front & 7mm rear shims. So that's an extra 3mm front & 4mm rear for the RS which would explain the wider track of 7mm front & 8mm rear. Guess geometry-wise it's probably not 1:1 but close enough, plus they surely round of to whole millimeters.
The Manthey kit I bought for the GT4 came with two 2mm and two 10mm shims. I ended up running 10+2=12 front & 7+3=10 rear. Then when I took it off I couldn't remember whether 2 or 3 was original and ended up putting on 7 and 2, thus leaving me with 10 & 3 for the RS.
For the RS I then moved the rear 7 to the front running 10+7= 17 and dropping in the 10+3= 13 in the rear. This means 5 more front & 3 more rear. Rule of thumb (and I measured and it is very close) is that 10 mm shim equals -1° camber. So it seems very logic that I went from -2.2° to -2.5° rear camber. Excentric bolts almost fully used. Still some adjustability to deal with minor deviations left/right.
It still boggles me that this setup rubs with stock tyres since I'm only running 3mm wider stance each side compared to my old setup and this mathematically should leave me with 2 mm more clearance. (305-295)/2 - 3 = 2 . But I know the AR-1s have very straight and sturdy side walls and the Dunlop has a rounder and softer side wall and tyre manufacturers probably do not measure their sections exactly the same way either.
Do you have any updates on the Immocars rear camber plates? My GT4RS is also showing a slight rubbing on the rear once we went to -2.4 with 3mm toe on the rear.
It only happens under heavy full compression but still annoys me. Had the same problem on my previous GT4s.
Do you have any updates on the Immocars rear camber plates? My GT4RS is also showing a slight rubbing on the rear once we went to -2.4 with 3mm toe on the rear.
It only happens under heavy full compression but still annoys me. Had the same problem on my previous GT4s.
Not yet unfortunately. The camber plates are still on the bench. We have a pretty long winter where I live and I have the car stored away during off-season. I do plan mounting them during spring and do my first trackday with them late April / early May. I will come back with my findings after that
Not yet unfortunately. The camber plates are still on the bench. We have a pretty long winter where I live and I have the car stored away during off-season. I do plan mounting them during spring and do my first trackday with them late April / early May. I will come back with my findings after that
Ok...Ordered mine last week. Should have them sometime in the next week or two.
Next Track Day is April 30th
I can reassure you guys that on our GT4 with -2.5 camber in the back there is absolutely no rubbing even with the Dunlop Sport Maxx Race 2 N1 which are known to rub in standard configuration.
Those with the Immocars camber plates what tire are you using out back?
I have used Pirelli DH in 305s on 19" wheels but their price just went through the roof.
Hankook offers are pretty decent slick and a lower price but the rear is a 300/60 with a section width of 12.6"....around 0.3" more than what I have heard people use on a GT4.
Wonder if by adding the Immocar plates I can run this tire....don't need much to make it work
Package with plate should be here tomorrow but wont be able to test fit tires/wheels till April......
After mounting the Immocars top mounts I had to remove 7mm shim each side to maintain my camber at previous setting around -2.5°. I also had to change LCA back to standard since the Manthey ones now seemed too long even at their shortest setting. This was just eyeballed in my garage since I didn´t want to arrive at the alignment shop just to be told to go home and swap LCA´s..
After the swap I run OZ Superleggera in 11.5x20 et48 shod with Nankang AR-1 in 305/30-20. Good clearance all around.
After mounting the Immocars top mounts I had to remove 7mm shim each side to maintain my camber at previous setting around -2.5°. I also had to change LCA back to standard since the Manthey ones now seemed too long even at their shortest setting. This was just eyeballed in my garage since I didn´t want to arrive at the alignment shop just to be told to go home and swap LCA´s..
After the swap I run OZ Superleggera in 11.5x20 et48 shod with Nankang AR-1 in 305/30-20. Good clearance all around.
I have the Tarett Motorsports Toe Links and was able to use them at -2.5 camber and 2 mm toe...they will work
09-05-2022 | 12:02 PM
