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No issues with installation and no programming. I try to keep power to the car via a charger to preserve electronic settings.
The new battery still should be "initialized/coded".
I also bought a Schumacher OBD2 Memory Saver ($27.99) from my local Autozone to save the memories of my components and accessories.
Plugged it into a portable battery pack/jumper/compressor and the OBD2 while I was swapping out batteries.
My indy Porsche mechanic charged 0.75 hour of labor or $142.50 to "code" the new battery.
My local Porsche dealership wanted $230.
Last edited by Diablo Dude; 06-23-2021 at 12:35 PM.
I've had a Braille lithium battery in my car for 5 years now, no issues, and I made no changes to the charging profile. I did nothing fancy to change it. Just unplugged the old one, and plugged in the new one. The car did not seem to care much.
I replaced stock battery with this Continental. AGM Plus. 800cca. Bigger than stock, but still fit the tray when extended. Total plug and play. Car identified the battery on its own. No extra action or expenditure required.
Will any H6 battery work? For example, this one looks good to me. 760 CCA. Bigger than factory H5, but smaller than H8, which is often recommended. I worry about H5 CCA numbers in the mid-atlantic winter.
Just swapped with same path. VW/Audi battery was same as Porsche for what I could find.
Stock Battery: Exide 5K0-915-105-D
VW Same Battery PN: 000-915-105-DE
Will have computer re-code when get the chance.
Yup.
The stealership wants $370 for a new battery and $230 to code it.
I paid $155 for my battery (which is only 37 lbs.) minus 10% off with my AAA card at my local VW dealership.
I swapped the batteries myself and my indy mechanic charged me 45 minutes of labor ($142) to code the battery.
I saved myself $298.
Will any H6 battery work? For example, this one looks good to me. 760 CCA. Bigger than factory H5, but smaller than H8, which is often recommended. I worry about H5 CCA numbers in the mid-atlantic winter.
I think you'll be fine back in New Jersey with an H6.
Looks like it will weigh in at 44.75 lbs.
In my opinion, the H8's are total overkill for our cars and they come in at a whopping 59 lbs.
As I mentioned earlier, my lead-acid H5 battery lasted 5 years (was still working when I replaced it this month) and the car is only being used on Weekends.
And while our car will run with a new battery without being coded, do yourself a favor and spend the money to get it coded. By coding your battery, your engine control module will know that a new one is installed and as a result, your GT4 will reset the old battery statistics and wont try to overcharge the new battery, thinking that the previous (old) one is still installed. Our engine management systems are pretty sophisticated. Our electronics must be updated with the new batteries specs and info.
Last edited by Diablo Dude; 07-05-2021 at 06:41 PM.
I think you'll be fine back in New Jersey with an H6.
Looks like it will weigh in at 45.6 lbs.
The H8's are total overkill for our cars and they come in at a whopping 59 lbs.
As I mentioned earlier, my H5 battery lasted 5 years (was still working when I replaced it this month) and the car is only being used on Weekends.
Thanks for the reply, Diablo. I ended up going with an Interstate H6 AGM battery obtained from a local shop. Installed it myself in about 20 minutes. Done and done.
Thanks for the reply, Diablo. I ended up going with an Interstate H6 AGM battery obtained from a local shop. Installed it myself in about 20 minutes. Done and done.
No prob Gordon!
Interestingly enough, all batteries are pretty much made by the same company, CLARIOS, headquartered in Milwaukee, WI.
Batteries used to be made by Johnson Controls, but they sold their battery division for $13 Billion in December of 2019 so they could focus on their "core" businesses.
Interstate, Die Hard, Optima, Varta, etc all made by CLARIOS.
Just make sure that you get your battery "coded" by your indy mechanic.
Last edited by Diablo Dude; 07-05-2021 at 09:32 PM.
Thought I would post back price ranges found from dealers for just the computer coding. Low was $165 and high was $300.
Out of convenience and ability to complete quickly on a flexible day I ended with $200. Dealer automatically added on shop supplies line but since spoke with their manager the coding price was adjusted down to account for what it seems their system is set to automatically add in. Could have shaved some more cost out but it is done now.
VW/Audi battery in now as same part from P. Checked and coded by P dealer.