Front Camber setup
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 603
Likes: 247
From: Sydney
Front Camber setup
I posted this in the track setup sticky thread but have had no responses so thinking it maybe gets lost up there.
I am running a track-focussed setup with 3.5 neg F and R and 19" wheels. The rear was simple with just RSS toe links required. The front has involved changing a bunch of parts to get a) the camber right and b) to then get the wheels back centred after holing out a set of guard liners.
Then at the track yesterday my track support mechanic said they now fit cup car adjustable strut tops and it allows the required camber with a a whole lot less bottom shims and they only cost about A$600 a pair plus fitting. Has any one else done that and got the result they want? If so I am not so happy having spent quite a lot on the advice of another garage to get where I am now. The setup is good and does what I want (plus I guess it's all rose joint mounted now) but if the alternative is just as good, cheaper and uses genuine Porsche parts then I think I would have done that.
I am running a track-focussed setup with 3.5 neg F and R and 19" wheels. The rear was simple with just RSS toe links required. The front has involved changing a bunch of parts to get a) the camber right and b) to then get the wheels back centred after holing out a set of guard liners.
Then at the track yesterday my track support mechanic said they now fit cup car adjustable strut tops and it allows the required camber with a a whole lot less bottom shims and they only cost about A$600 a pair plus fitting. Has any one else done that and got the result they want? If so I am not so happy having spent quite a lot on the advice of another garage to get where I am now. The setup is good and does what I want (plus I guess it's all rose joint mounted now) but if the alternative is just as good, cheaper and uses genuine Porsche parts then I think I would have done that.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2015
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Likes: 1,501
I don't know about the Porsche motorsports parts but I recently added the Tarett camber plates. I was using just shims to get up to 2.4-2.5 negative up front but the caster was getting out of spec too much and getting closer to the liner.
I was happy with the -2.5 as I use my car for the street and track results were pretty good...maybe a bit more camber would be optimal.
Recently I upgraded to 19" Forgelines and Pirelli DH Slicks so those do require a lot more camber. As you mentioned the problem is I can't keep on adding shims so added the Tarett camber plates.
Without any change to the alignment/lower LCA shims/car...adding these added a full (1) degree of negative camber and correct a little bit the caster. So my cars now can go from -2.5 to -3.5 by moving the top of the struts.
It also brings the wheel a bit more to the inside on the top which is good for my new wheels. For the street I just add a spacer.
I still need the RSR tension rods and solid bushings to correct the caster if going over -3 degrees up front.
I was happy with the -2.5 as I use my car for the street and track results were pretty good...maybe a bit more camber would be optimal.
Recently I upgraded to 19" Forgelines and Pirelli DH Slicks so those do require a lot more camber. As you mentioned the problem is I can't keep on adding shims so added the Tarett camber plates.
Without any change to the alignment/lower LCA shims/car...adding these added a full (1) degree of negative camber and correct a little bit the caster. So my cars now can go from -2.5 to -3.5 by moving the top of the struts.
It also brings the wheel a bit more to the inside on the top which is good for my new wheels. For the street I just add a spacer.
I still need the RSR tension rods and solid bushings to correct the caster if going over -3 degrees up front.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,933
Likes: 235
Currently running -3.0 F and -2.5 R on a street/track car. Rear only required toe links, Front is a combo of shims and camber plates. Originally F was only shimmed, had caster issues and slight rubbing after I dropped F ride height 10 mm.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 4,762
Likes: 1,501
If I can get decent caster without changing the tension rods and bushing I would prefer that.....but looks like -3.0 might be the limit.
Not sure how the Pirelli's will behave at -3.0, our tracks are not high speed so they might just survive and last at -3 degrees...haven't used them yet because UPS lost one of my front Forgelines almost 2 months ago......hopefully will settle the claim this month and have on order another front wheel.
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 322
From: Tennessee
Interesting. I thought stock was 8 or so on average with the GT4. I'm at 9.5 with no rubbing on a 981S (obviously not the same suspension or ride height). Were the caster problems just rubbing, or something else?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 603
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From: Sydney
Thanks guys. So to get where I am today I have fitted;
RSS rear toe links
CMS sway bars F and R
RSS F and R monoballs
RSS F Adj toe/bump steer kit
Extended tie rod kit (to accommodate more spacers and thus more camber)
BBI Thrust Arm Bushings
BBI Thrust Arms
and various ancillary bit and pieces
Still no further on the CUP car parts though.
Does anyone know what camber the Clubsport car can achieve? Surely a better way to go is to just install Porsche Motorsport OEM parts if they work.
RSS rear toe links
CMS sway bars F and R
RSS F and R monoballs
RSS F Adj toe/bump steer kit
Extended tie rod kit (to accommodate more spacers and thus more camber)
BBI Thrust Arm Bushings
BBI Thrust Arms
and various ancillary bit and pieces
Still no further on the CUP car parts though.
Does anyone know what camber the Clubsport car can achieve? Surely a better way to go is to just install Porsche Motorsport OEM parts if they work.
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Three Wheelin'
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,933
Likes: 235
I'm sure this is a combination of shims plus camber plates. With shims alone last year I was -2.8, I'm now running Rennline camber plates which add 1 degree, I believe Tarett are the same. If I retained all my shims, I could be at -3.8 but removed some shims to get to -3.0. and get caster closer to stock.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 124
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, NY
I'm sure this is a combination of shims plus camber plates. With shims alone last year I was -2.8, I'm now running Rennline camber plates which add 1 degree, I believe Tarett are the same. If I retained all my shims, I could be at -3.8 but removed some shims to get to -3.0. and get caster closer to stock.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,502
Likes: 2
From: TURN 1
My caster is like 10.5 in the front. Using shims. No rubbing. But I think using 265/19 in the front will introduce some rubbing in the future. Perhaps I need to consider camber plates and use less shims. Would I need thrust pucks/arm to lower the caster value?
Rennlist Member
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 320
Likes: 40
From: Portland, OR
I am using plates, shims and tarrets bits and was able to achieve 3.7 front (3.0 rear) ... I was running 3.2 before the GT3 shims. Tires were still wearing a bit on the outside before so I am excited to give this new alignment a try tomorrow.