I am buying a Trailex CT-8045 and trying to decide what length ratchet straps and axle straps to buy. Anyone who has this trailer and loaded a GT4 on it? What lengths do you recommend? I am planning to buy MACs straps. They make a Pro Pack that includes both the ratchet straps and the axles straps, but they offer in custom sizing at no up charge. I did search, but did not locate anything relevant, even though I do feel like I remember reading that someone else has posted on this topic before.

 

This may be only partly useful- I have a new CT8045 and have loaded a Cayman R on it but not the GT4 yet. I also bought MAC's tie downs- 6ft ratchet straps and 40in axle straps. The 6ft ratchets were fine for the R and should be for the GT4 as well. I crossed the straps in the back. I ran the axle straps through the wheels with the Velcro on pads to protect the wheels. On 275/40/18s the straps were ok but not a lot of slack- partly due to the pads. My GT4 is in the shop now getting tires so can't check on the larger rear wheels/tire. I can check tomorrow. That said if you can get custom length at no cost getting a few inches more on the straps for the rear wheels might be a good idea. Assuming you plan to strap through the wheels. Anyway hope that helps.

Got the GT4 back and checked- the 40in axle straps work fine on a 295 20in tire/wheel.

 

Thank you for this info. A few follow up questions: (1) if you could get custom axle straps to fit the GT4 would you still go with the 40" straps or would you go longer? (2) how much extra strap material do you have leftover with the 6 foot ratchet straps? Trying to decide between 6 foot and 8 foot, or I could split the difference and have them make some 7 foot straps (3) did you buy the direct hook ratchet straps or the traditional and the later do they work well on your setup?

 

1) Get a staggered set of axle straps. That way when you take'em off you know which straps go where and don't have to play with a bunch of adjustment.
2) You can always convert to direct hook later if you find that the extra length interferes with your tightening.
3) Get the straps as long as you can. You'll never know when you'll upgrade to enclosed and need the extra length.

 

40in straps for the wheels are fine for the GT4. I wonder though for a GT3 or RS. Using the 6ft straps in the front going direct from the D rings to the wheel strap there is a good 2ft excess. In the back where I crossed the straps there is about 10in. In the photos I laid out the straps as they were from tying down the Cayman R. Should have taken some photos while I had it loaded. Certainly no harm in adding a foot for those in the back. I went with direct hook mainly based on the MACs web site recommendation to get the rachet out from under the car and they worked fine.

 

^Very helpful thank you. Zedcat is that photo of the blue car the GT4 rear wheel or the Cayman R? Also what size axle straps would you use on the front wheels ideally? Macs will make different sizes for front and rear upon request.

 

Photo of the wheel strap is on the GT4 with 295/30/20 RE-71. For the front 245s the 40in strap looks ok. My Cayman R also has 245 front and the 40in. straps worked fine. If I had time I'd do a test load of the GT4 but won't be able to until this weekend. For the R I did need some 2in boards to clear the front on the Trailex ramps, may need same for the GT4.

 

Perfect timing for this thread. I just purchased a new-to-me Trailex 8045 for my GT4. I was in the process of researching straps...

I'm looking forward to picts and updated info on straps, strap-length, race-ramps (if required), and GT4 loading position on the 8045 to achieve a 12-15% tongue weight.


Thanks for sharing this info! I'll share whatever findings I have as well.

 

Why not use the tie down points/holes for T-hooks on the bottom of the car, where the lift pads are? They are made to tie the car down.

 

I spoke to Carl at Trailex about this idea and he strongly discouraged attaching straps to the bottom of the car, as he said it would make the trailer bounce more. When you strap the wheels instead of connecting to the body of the car you are allowing the car's suspension to absorb and control the up and down movements, which works a lot better. I would follow Carl's advice on this, as it not only makes sense to me but also is coming from a guy with many years of experience towing with Trailex trailers.

 

Hmm, okay. Maybe that is something particular to Trailex. I read a ton of information and threads on this before I tied mine down and never came across the comment about bouncing. I believe my Featherlite is a bit heavier than the Trailex, but have not had a problem bouncing. Securing from the bottom may compress the car's suspension just a bit, but there is not a lot of downforce due to the angles of connection. I'm surprised it would make much of a difference, really.

I read a lot about people complaining connecting through the tires messes up their alignment. I do not really understand how that can be true given the trailer loading conditions should be less severe than driving conditions. There were an equal number of people saying it never bothered with alignment as well. But I opted to avoid the possibility of alignment issues altogether and use the bottom approach.

 

I do not claim to be a expert. Just passing on the info that was provided to me and giving my opinion that what Carl said makes sense to me. I do understand the pros and cons you mentioned in favor of the approach you advocate and cannot prove or disprove that either approach is better. In the end, everyone must choose the approach that they feel most confident about.

 

^ Agree. Some people are highly enthusiastic about their approach and less so about others. On things like this when you have several camps supporting different ideas, the ground truth is probably that any of them is fine.

 

There are also 2 camps that when going through the wheels or just the spokes of the wheels that strap straight or that strap crossed. Crossed most likely will have more of an adverse effect on the alignment when tightening the straps. But then again the straight/crossed camps also debate the loss of 1 strap and the movement of the car on the deck when bouncing around.

In the end a lot of it depends on the trailer design where they locate the d-rings, the length of the trailer and its load, as well as the access you have to tighten things down which can determine how to strap it.

 

I got this setup a few years ago. Used it with an RS and with the GT4 on an open trailex, and now in an enclosed. Both cars had rennline jack point tie downs for the front, and loop through the wheel on the rear. The extra running ends were for converting to rennline tie downs in the rear, which I now use instead of the through-wheel setup on my enclosed because it's much easier to work with in confined space. 40" Axle straps worked on the 335 section rear tires on the RS.

On the trailex with a tire rack, you pretty much have to use tie points in the front, securing the chassis vertically to guard against the hood of the car striking the tires on the rack.