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Yes I ordered the 6 gal can with Dry Break Kit - (2.25" quick fill kit) +$389.00
you should be good to go then. Depending on the length of the races you do, you want 2-4. dump cans so you can rapidly fill to the level you need. Even with 4 cans, you can fill each to 6.5 gallons and fill the whole 100l cell.
you should be good to go then. Depending on the length of the races you do, you want 2-4. dump cans so you can rapidly fill to the level you need. Even with 4 cans, you can fill each to 6.5 gallons and fill the whole 100l cell.
For the MR system, do you need an external vent for the second flange slot or no? From the video you shared it doesn’t look like it but was curious.
For the MR system, do you need an external vent for the second flange slot or no? From the video you shared it doesn’t look like it but was curious.
yes and no. If you want to completely fill the tank to the very top then you need either the special Staubli doubled headed fill can (like 5k) or install one of the MR rollover valve vent kits. But you can get~22 gals in without any vent, it just goes slower than that video.
yes and no. If you want to completely fill the tank to the very top then you need either the special Staubli doubled headed fill can (like 5k) or install one of the MR rollover valve vent kits. But you can get~22 gals in without any vent, it just goes slower than that video.
I see. I am installing the entire MR kit which I believe has the rollover vent valve. The goal is to fill fast for enduros. I am assuming you have the MR kit with rollover ?
I see. I am installing the entire MR kit which I believe has the rollover vent valve. The goal is to fill fast for enduros. I am assuming you have the MR kit with rollover ?
one car has the MR double vent kit (car in video), the other has no MR vent kit (its on order PMNA). You only need the double vent kit for very hot environments, apparently.
If you’re just looking for a easy way to refuel, this works really well and adapts to most jugs. I have a large tank on my trailer but often get squeezed in the paddock so I can’t pull alongside. In those situations I fill up a jug, put this device on top, set it in the frunk and start. It has auto stop feature as well.
TERA PUMP TRFA01 4 AA Battery Powered Fuel Transfer Pump w/ Flexible Intake hose and No-spill Auto-Stop Nozzle attachable to gas cans and more
+1 for the Tera Pump, that's what I use. I prop open one (of two) of the Premier fuel caps using a small, angled PVC pipe so that it won't fall in the tank. Since I'm not racing I don't need the dump cans nor the back ache.
I'm running my new to me GT4 CS MR this weekend and do not have a dry break can. Just to be clear so I don't F it up: i can push down either of these seals, insert a piece of PVC that is long enough to not fall in, and use a pump to fill from a gas can?
Just to be clear so I don't F it up: i can push down either of these seals, insert a piece of PVC that is long enough to not fall in, and use a pump to fill from a gas can?
yes, though you don’t even need the pvc. You can just push the circle down and put the pump nozzle in and start pumping. The only downside is it’s harder to get the cell completely full this way but otherwise works fine.
So GLAD this post came back up. I just purchased an MR with the same dry break system and was sweating getting a dry break dump can ahead of Mid Ohio DE in a week and a half. Looks like, albeit a pain in the ***, just putting a regular fueling hose down will do the trick. Full fill-up shouldn't be a problem as I'll only put in about 5 gallons per session. Thanks, GT4 CS crew!
04-18-2021, 08:47 PM
