Mark this thread as Unsold
For Sale: 1999 996 Track / Race - New Motor
10-09-2012, 10:47 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
1999 996 Track / Race - New Motor
The car is a '99 Carrera with 120,000 miles on the body. Silver. It's still street legal but is essentially a track-only car, and is ready for a full race build. No pictures currently available as I post this, but those are coming.
I'm putting this together as a complete package, but it is certainly possible to sell the motor and chassis separately, with the chassis needing nothing other than a drivetrain.
Motor is a brand new rebuild by Dan Aspesi (the Speed Gallery in CA). L&N bearing, knife-edged crank, all new bearings, pistons and rods balanced, baffled oil pan and skid plate, SAI pump is off, AC is removed (all lines and condenser still in car), under drive pulley, new AOS and water pump, LW flywheel, and new Sachs clutch. All coolant system parts are new. There's more to the rebuild, but those are the majors.
Stock air box. Exhaust is basically stock except for 3.6 headers--I have the 3.4 headers--and After Hours mufflers. Not claiming any power increase with the mufflers, but they're lighter than stock and sound great! Factory cats are still there.
Tranny is stock. Never opened, fluid regularly changed. Factory LSD--bit of a rarity on these Carreras. Shifts clean and crisp. 997 GT3 shifter; stock cables.
WEVO semi-solid engine mounts; tranny mounts stock.
2.5 year old Bilstein PSS10s with brand new Eibach 500 lb front / 650 lb rear (revalving required at 700 lbs or higher). Brand new custom perches and torsion bearings. Brand new Tarret rear camber plates; GMG front camber plates with new spherical bearings. I have the original Bilstein/Eibach PSS10 springs if desired.
Porsche RoW M030 sways installed; Cup car diameter GMG adjustable sways will go with the purchase. I may even have the stock sways. GT3 lower control arms front. Drop links for the sways and Tarret rear dog bones/trailing arms.
Full Safety Devices bolt in cage. Mounts for 6-point harnesses. No fire system or electrical cut-off installed. All air bags are out. I left the driver's seat belt in for easy street work as desired/necessary. Double locking slider on driver's seat, passenger is hard mounted to the floor. Cheapo Corbeau currently in the driver's side, and a knock-off GT3 wanna-be seat in the passenger.
Momo wheel with a Snap Off quick release hub.
It's been partially stripped down, with a lot more possible. Trunk bay is now bare and the front of the cockpit is pretty much stripped, including the doors. Radio and speakers are out, carpet is out, rear parcel lid, seats and insulation, etc.
I'll be conservative and say the car is somewhere between 2800-2900 lbs--the last corner weight and balancing was before the stripping-in-earnest.
All body parts are factory, except for a GT3 style front splitter that is a polyurethane piece bought from Vertex and painted to match. It's screwed on, but should be riveted on. All factory exterior lighting is still installed--Litronic headlights.
So now the disclosure: I have had two "offs"; both at NJMSP. Both accidents caused body damage, but no frame or suspension mount damage. The first incident damage was to the left rear fender, bumper and deck lid. All parts professionally repaired or replaced and painted. The second incident was on the passenger side door, fenders and the decklid--again--Arrghh!! . . . Repairs done by Bodymotion in NJ, including fitting a factory MK1 aero "taco" wing. The first incident pushed-in sheet metal in the engine bay which I did not fix. The result is that the deck lid does not line up perfectly with the fender, but all other panels and gaps are good. Overall, the paint is good, even those parts that have not been repainted.
I have two, and possibly three sets of wheels. One is the factory 18" turbo twists with Dunlop Direzzas installed (awesome street tire and wet track tire) with lots of life left. Second set are black OZ Alleggeritas (9s and 10s x 18). These are the primary track wheels. I run BFG R1s, and have 14 ranging from a brand new never mounted set to 10 others with various numbers of heat cycles--all are still very serviceable for DE level work. Third set are anthracite Alleggeritas 9 & 11 x 18 with Conti DWS installed, and lots of life left.
Current brakes are factory stock calipers with slotted fronts and OEM cross-drilled rears. I regularly flush and bleed with Motul RBF 600 and currently run PFC pads. The set on the car now are PFC 06 F&R with some life left, and I have a brand new set of 06 front and 01 rear. GT3 brake duct plates are installed, but no other cooling.
Other than spending time to tune the suspension, ride height, alignment and other dialing-in to a driver's preferences, I would go through all the bushings to determine what if anything needs replacing. Other than the parts I've identified already, everything else is factory. I don't think anything needs replacing but they'll be some good preventative maintenance I'm sure. Or, just go solid / semi-solid. Wheel hubs/bearings are good. Calipers work as they should, but a preventative rebuild if you're going racing wouldn't hurt.
SO, those are the big ticket items and some of the small details I can think of at this point.
Asking $32,500 / OBO --for everything. It's scary to tally up how much more than that is in the car, but that's the way this hobby goes. Car is currently at my mechanic's shop in Delaware waiting for the motor install, and can be inspected anytime.
Let me know if there are any questions. PM or email me.
Thanks,
Aaron
amxshapiro@gmail.com
I'm putting this together as a complete package, but it is certainly possible to sell the motor and chassis separately, with the chassis needing nothing other than a drivetrain.
Motor is a brand new rebuild by Dan Aspesi (the Speed Gallery in CA). L&N bearing, knife-edged crank, all new bearings, pistons and rods balanced, baffled oil pan and skid plate, SAI pump is off, AC is removed (all lines and condenser still in car), under drive pulley, new AOS and water pump, LW flywheel, and new Sachs clutch. All coolant system parts are new. There's more to the rebuild, but those are the majors.
Stock air box. Exhaust is basically stock except for 3.6 headers--I have the 3.4 headers--and After Hours mufflers. Not claiming any power increase with the mufflers, but they're lighter than stock and sound great! Factory cats are still there.
Tranny is stock. Never opened, fluid regularly changed. Factory LSD--bit of a rarity on these Carreras. Shifts clean and crisp. 997 GT3 shifter; stock cables.
WEVO semi-solid engine mounts; tranny mounts stock.
2.5 year old Bilstein PSS10s with brand new Eibach 500 lb front / 650 lb rear (revalving required at 700 lbs or higher). Brand new custom perches and torsion bearings. Brand new Tarret rear camber plates; GMG front camber plates with new spherical bearings. I have the original Bilstein/Eibach PSS10 springs if desired.
Porsche RoW M030 sways installed; Cup car diameter GMG adjustable sways will go with the purchase. I may even have the stock sways. GT3 lower control arms front. Drop links for the sways and Tarret rear dog bones/trailing arms.
Full Safety Devices bolt in cage. Mounts for 6-point harnesses. No fire system or electrical cut-off installed. All air bags are out. I left the driver's seat belt in for easy street work as desired/necessary. Double locking slider on driver's seat, passenger is hard mounted to the floor. Cheapo Corbeau currently in the driver's side, and a knock-off GT3 wanna-be seat in the passenger.
Momo wheel with a Snap Off quick release hub.
It's been partially stripped down, with a lot more possible. Trunk bay is now bare and the front of the cockpit is pretty much stripped, including the doors. Radio and speakers are out, carpet is out, rear parcel lid, seats and insulation, etc.
I'll be conservative and say the car is somewhere between 2800-2900 lbs--the last corner weight and balancing was before the stripping-in-earnest.
All body parts are factory, except for a GT3 style front splitter that is a polyurethane piece bought from Vertex and painted to match. It's screwed on, but should be riveted on. All factory exterior lighting is still installed--Litronic headlights.
So now the disclosure: I have had two "offs"; both at NJMSP. Both accidents caused body damage, but no frame or suspension mount damage. The first incident damage was to the left rear fender, bumper and deck lid. All parts professionally repaired or replaced and painted. The second incident was on the passenger side door, fenders and the decklid--again--Arrghh!! . . . Repairs done by Bodymotion in NJ, including fitting a factory MK1 aero "taco" wing. The first incident pushed-in sheet metal in the engine bay which I did not fix. The result is that the deck lid does not line up perfectly with the fender, but all other panels and gaps are good. Overall, the paint is good, even those parts that have not been repainted.
I have two, and possibly three sets of wheels. One is the factory 18" turbo twists with Dunlop Direzzas installed (awesome street tire and wet track tire) with lots of life left. Second set are black OZ Alleggeritas (9s and 10s x 18). These are the primary track wheels. I run BFG R1s, and have 14 ranging from a brand new never mounted set to 10 others with various numbers of heat cycles--all are still very serviceable for DE level work. Third set are anthracite Alleggeritas 9 & 11 x 18 with Conti DWS installed, and lots of life left.
Current brakes are factory stock calipers with slotted fronts and OEM cross-drilled rears. I regularly flush and bleed with Motul RBF 600 and currently run PFC pads. The set on the car now are PFC 06 F&R with some life left, and I have a brand new set of 06 front and 01 rear. GT3 brake duct plates are installed, but no other cooling.
Other than spending time to tune the suspension, ride height, alignment and other dialing-in to a driver's preferences, I would go through all the bushings to determine what if anything needs replacing. Other than the parts I've identified already, everything else is factory. I don't think anything needs replacing but they'll be some good preventative maintenance I'm sure. Or, just go solid / semi-solid. Wheel hubs/bearings are good. Calipers work as they should, but a preventative rebuild if you're going racing wouldn't hurt.
SO, those are the big ticket items and some of the small details I can think of at this point.
Asking $32,500 / OBO --for everything. It's scary to tally up how much more than that is in the car, but that's the way this hobby goes. Car is currently at my mechanic's shop in Delaware waiting for the motor install, and can be inspected anytime.
Let me know if there are any questions. PM or email me.
Thanks,
Aaron
amxshapiro@gmail.com
Last edited by sprintamx; 12-12-2012 at 11:59 AM. Reason: Clarify price
10-22-2012, 02:57 PM
#2
Instructor
Thread Starter
I finally managed to take a few pics of the car--been busy and traveling. Motor is in and runs beautifully; sounds great too.
Drop me a PM or email if you'd like any more information. I also have more pictures.
amxshapiro@gmail.com
Drop me a PM or email if you'd like any more information. I also have more pictures.
amxshapiro@gmail.com
