bshirer

I'd just like to add myself to the list of people that this post has helped. I was having issues with my '14 Cayenne S... the jerky shifting into 3rd and 4th gear. I thought this was going to be a major issue since others with this issue have had their TC replaced by Porsche for thousands of dollars. I ordered 2 plugs from pelican parts, and a liter of Ravenol TC fluid. Literally less than a half hour of work and hardly any cash and my car is running like a top. I never would have expected new fluid to have such an effect. Thanks for this post.

ocmacman

I followed this method and didn't crack my case. I hand tighten about 13ft-lbs and no leaks or cracks. Also the gear shifting seems better. Will know later today as I plan to drive the car a bit. I still have the coolant smell I am trying to track down. Will put the airlift on it later this weekend.

dhc905

no kidding - I frankly don’t know what ‘roids you all cracking TCs are on! Easiest thing procedure and I believe a material improvement based on my 10 minute drive post op.

texski

Seems like there was some talk in the bazillion posts about our transfer cases, some were using an ounce or two of friction modifier in addition to the Ravenol. It that still recommenced with the new RAVENOL J1C1125 DTF-1?

Also, I purchased the TC fluid directly from Blauparts, instead of Amazon. It was $41.29 purchasing from Blauparts through Amazon, or $32-ish from Blauparts. I purchased 2 Liters and used a 15% coupon and got free shipping.

MountainStone

Is there evidence the Ravenol is superior to the Porsche fluid? My research indicates the part number for transfer case fluid is: 000-043-305-63
Searching that part number indicates the OEM fluid is SHELL TF-0870, which is priced in the $27 range ($70 if you want it in the Porsche bottle).
I ordered the SHELL OEM fluid for my upcoming change (20K miles since transfer case replacement); at 20K mile intervals, does the Ravenol provide any benefit over the OEM fluid?

deilenberger

Nothing that's been proven, but it also doesn't seem to be poorer in performance than the Porsche fluid. And it does come in the nice bottle with the fill spout (which is a plus over the plain bottle Shell/Porsche fluid comes in.)

3Series

For those of you reusing the drain plug, are you adding anything to the thread? Loctite? Same for the fill plug but not as concerned about that one.

Pancan

To everyone who contributed so far to this topic: THANKS!

I have 2013 Cayenne, 106,000 miles, had this issue for more than 1 year! Same story like all of you, Porsche recommended the change of the entire TC for $4,500. The only Transfer Case Fluid I could get was the Valvoline, followed the posts and changed the Fluid. Can see already a big difference. As I read that some user had to change the fluid multiple times until the “jerking” was gone entirely, I am planning to get a bottle of Ravenol in the next days and replace the fluid another time.

will keep you posted.

CAVU

First, Thanks to who ever at Ravenol decided to add that hand dandy filler top to their container specification. No mess, no fuss. When I am done with it, I will retain that bottle for future lube jobs.

Did my first Porsche transfer case fluid change. Was starting to feeling "snaps" and "pops" in my britches when cornering. 20k miles on this TC. 5/2017 date on the case label, most likely no GNC. With no fluid drips from the drain or fill plugs. Will make this a recurring maintenance probably with each oil change. It is easier than an oil change.

So I used my Clock and Count method removing and reinstalling the drain and fill plugs and captured some info.

1. Fill plug (recommend always opening the fill plug first). Noted the number of exposed threads, two. I marked (black line) the upper plug at 6 o'clock and counted the CCW turns before the threads were no longer mated. I got 3 1/4 turns. Did not take much pressure to get the plug started. At 1.5 turns i took the ratchet off and did it by hand to make it easier to feel the threads un-mate.
2. Drain plug. Two exposed threads. Scribed a line at 6 o'clock. Top plug is a black mark and bottom plug is a scribe. Got 3 1/2 turns before un-mating.
3. Drain. Not ugly, but a fair amount of darker color from the clutch plates, I suspect.
4. Both plugs each have about 6-7 threads. The red sealant was not on the first two threads that enter the hole first. I took a brass brush and wire brushed off loose material. Then applied Loctite 518 to the middle two threads.
5. Drain plug. Place drain plug (the scribed one) on your allen drive. Place the plug against the hole and rotate CCW. When you feel a click, start rotating CW and start counting. I got to 2.5 turns and then used my OTC 3833-25 micro torque wrench. I found that the scribe mark hit its designated position with about 60 in-lbs or about 6.8 Nm.
6. Fill the TC with your favorite lube, I chose the Ravenol and no friction modifier added.
7. Fill plug. same as step 5 except i simply counted the clock rotations.
8. Test drove gives me hope. Will look for leaks at the TC plugs. these next few days.

Notes:
- I would not recommend using Porsche's 15 flt-lbs (yes, it says ft-lbs) or 20 Nm of torque on those plugs.
- The case did not crack. Happy about that and did not expect it to with my method.
- There is no separate seal like we have with the oil drain plug. This is a friction fit plug and needs a little "something" on the threads for a complete leak free seal.. I think any pliable flange or gasketless sealant should work. Just remove the old stuff with a wire brush a reapply new stuff to those two middle threads. If too much trouble, buy two new plugs. No idea if they come with the sealant already on the threads.