Tachometer Gauge Face Replacement DIY

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01-22-2023, 04:25 PM

stjoh

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Tachometer Gauge Face Replacement DIY

Replacement of Tachometer Gauge Face Porsche 992
While most steps are pretty straightforward there are quite a few of them and some require a careful hand. Therefore, proceed with caution unless you are familiar with working on electronics, interiors etc. While I could probably do it in half that, I’d plan on spending about a half day to do the job.

Tools:

T-25 socket
T-10 screwdriver
T-6 screwdriver
10mm socket
¼ in ratchet
¼ in extension
Magnet
Microfiber Rag
Towel
Interior removal plastic tool
Various Picks, prying tools etc.

Parts:

Replacement Gauge face in desired color. These are readily available from AliExpress or ebay. I bought the ones listed below but there are many options (probably all from the same manufacturer).

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32568...andl_shipto=US

Preparation.

Move the steering wheel to the lowest position.
Disconnect the ground cable from the battery using a 10mm socket. Secure it away from the battery pole.

Open the glove compartment.

Removing the Gauge Pod.

Remove the side dashboard cover on the driver’s side. Start by prying at the bottom corner and work your way up until up pops out. There are 5 clips holding it, make sure they all stay in place. There are also two white caps on the guide pegs on the panel.
Remove the screw holding the ledge in place (Torx T-25). The ledge can then be removed by pulling straight aft.
Remove the side cover on the passenger side using the same technique as the driver’s side.
Remove the three screws holding the passenger side ledge in place. The first one is the same as the driver’s side, the other two are accessed from the glove compartment.
Remove the plastic trim piece next to the cup holder by pulling it out.

Remove the ledge by pulling straight aft starting from the right side working your way towards the steering wheel. There are three metal clips on the right side, make sure they all stay in place. Also, make sure all the plastic covers on the tabs remain in place.

Pull the small plastic cover under the gauge pod aft. It will remain connected to the fabric cover but can be moved out of the way sufficiently to access the screws for the gauge pod.
Using a T-25 Torx on ¼ drive with an extension remove the two screws holding the gauge pod in place. I recommend placing a rag under it to protect the interior and catch the screws if they are dropped. I also used a magnet to make sure I didn’t lose the screws.

Pull towards you on the bottom portion to release the gauge pod. It can then be rotated out of its position.
Remove the two connectors on the back. The large one on the left is released by moving the orange lever down (push the release tab down to allow the lever to move). The smaller one has traditional tabs on the side that need to be pushed in.

The gauge pod can now be removed.

Disassembling the Gauge Pod

Remove the clip attached to the top of the pod by releasing the tabs and pulling out.
The back cover can now be removed by releasing the tabs, starting at the bottom working your way to the top.

Remove the metal screen by pulling straight up.
Remove the six screws (T-10) holding the circuit board in place.
Disconnect the three ribbon cables by rotating the black latch up and inboard then pull the ribbon cable out.
Disconnect the white speaker connector.
Before the circuit board can be removed, the three metal clips holding the speaker assembly in place have to be removed. Using a pick push the bottom of the metal plate away from the pin. When released the plate can be pulled straight up.

Remove the circuit board.
The tachometer can now be released by removing the eight T-10 screws.

Remove the trim ring and glass. Start by releasing the two tabs on the side which can be accessed from the back. Insert a flat tool in the gap and working your way around the perimeter releasing the remaining tabs.

Remove the needle by pulling straight up. It’s on pretty good so it requires a strong pull. Alternatively, put some masking tape on the clear plastic cover and use a tool (spoons) to pry it out.

DIsconnect the ribbon cable then remove the four T-10 screws holding the circuit board in place and then remove it.

Remove the front face from the gauge by releasing the clips.

- Remove the center trim ring by releasing the three clips from the rear.

Remove the screw (T-6) holding the small circuit board in place and then remove the circuit board.

The center plastic cover can now be removed by releasing each of the plastic clips.
Lift the gauge face assembly out of the white holder.
Almost there. Last thing before the gauge face can be accessed is to remove the white and red tick marks. Using a flat metal or plastic toll gently pry it up from each of the small white plastic tabs holding it in place. I believe these were fused in place so expect a small piece of the tab to come loose while doing this. Note that the white and the red are two separate parts.

The old gauge face can now be removed and the new one inserted in its place.

Re-assembly of Gauge Pod

Place the two strips with the tick marks back in place behind the gauge face making sure they are properly seated. You may have to carefully sand the pins to allow this. You can probably use a hot needle to slightly melt the top of the pins but I used a small dab of super glue gel to secure the strips against the gauge face.
Place the gauge face assembly into the plastic holder using the guide pins.
Push the center ring and clear plastic in place.
Push the center ring in place.
Reinstall the small circuit board and fasten the T-6 screw.
Install the larger circuit board using the six T-10 screws.
Attach the ribbon cable by inserting it into the connector and then rotating the black latch to clamp it in place. Make sure the cable is fully and evenly inserted into the connector.
If the needle drive shaft has not been displaced the needle can now be installed by pushing it onto the shaft. I left the needle, glass and trim ring off until the gauge was connected to the car to ensure proper alignment.
Since it is clocked I suggest marking the trim ring with a piece of tape to show the top to ease installation later.

Attach the tachometer assembly to the gauge pod using the eight T10 screws.
Place the large circuit board onto the gauge pod assembly carefully wrapping each of the ribbon cables around the edge. Fasten it using the six (silver colored) T-10 screws. Push the three metal clips back in place to secure the speaker assembly. They require a firm push and will seat with a noticeable “click”.

Re-attach the connector for the fan.
Re-attach the three ribbon cables by inserting them into the connector and rotating the black latch to clamp them in place. Ensure they are fully and evenly inserted.

Press the metal shield into the clips on the circuit board.
Push the back cover in place then attach the upper strip.

Re-installation of Gauge Pod

Attach the two electrical connectors. The small one is just pushed in, the larger one is secured by rotating the latch to the locked position.
Position the pod by placing the two pins in the top in place and then rotating the button into place. It will snap into place with a noticeable click. Make sure the cables are placed in the cavities so they do not get pinched.
Secure the pod by attaching the two screws.
Push the small cover under the pod back in place.
Push the two ledges back in place and secure using the screws.
Push the side covers back in place.
Install the ground cable to the battery.
Enjoy!