When you are ready to flush,
1. Use needle nose pliers to remove the strainer basket in the brake fluid reservoir
2. Use a new turkey baster to suck out all the old and damp brake fluid in the reservoir
3. Refill with new brake fluid from a can that was not opened at an earlier date.

There is no use in flushing with old and damp brake fluid in the reservoir. Start this way and you will be pushing new dry fluid into the lines as you flush/bleed.
"🎶 That's the way, uh huh, I like it! 🎶"

 

No more pumping than using the wet method with a very simple mod. Something I came up with back in 2011.

Motive Products Power Bleeder - Modified for Dry Method Use

 

Brake fluid bleeding/flushing is much quicker and more effective this way.

 

I love these measurements. But, did we ever figure out the inside vs outside ml? I see on the thread “10-15 seconds” to bleed the inside nipple… but is 250ml for both inside and outside?

 

IMO - the numbers include both inside and outside, so per caliper. When I buy SRF, which is in a 1L bottle, I always have plenty left over and I've more than drained all the old fluid.

 

Drain until color of fluid changes.

 

I did this a few times on my Cayman. Same procedure on the 911. Worked well and have done a few of them before each track day.

 

I am using the wet method to flush my brakes and I was able to successfully flush the passenger rear. On the driver's rear when I slightly open the bleeder no fluid is coming out but the pressure on the Motiv is holding at 15psi. If I open the bleeder a little too much I can see some brake fluid slowing coming out of where the bleeder threads into the caliper. Any suggestions on what I should try to get it to come out of the bleeder?

 

My guess is the bleeder screw/valve is plugged or blocked. Inspect/probe or, at worst, replace the bleeder screw.

 

Ok, that is what I was thinking. Is there any possibility of air getting in to brake system if I replace the bleeder? Is it more involved that simply taking it out and replacing with a new one?

 

Your first step is to determine/diagnose the cause of the blockage before you do anything else. I would probe the channel in the screw to see if it is packed with dirt. You might be able to gently clear the blockage with a small nail. You can unbolt the caliper if it makes it easier.

But, Yes. Replacing the bleeder screw will most likely allow air into the system and it could be very messy unless you drain the system first. That has additional issues. Release pressure from your system and cap the reservoir and close vent should reduce the flow. Or, plug the system upstream and remove the effected caliper to do it on your bench. No matter what you do, you should follow it with a complete fluid change/flush to make sure your brake system is fully functioning correctly. Or, if you do not track the car and the fluid is relatively fresh, do the best you can with the rest of the system and move on. How you respond is highly situational. If it were my car, I would consider upgrading to steel brake lines if I was replacing bleeder screws anyway if you track. Best wishes.

 

That or not enough pressure. I do not have the factory service manual in front of me, but I remember seeing 29 psi.

I just checked my tablet that has the factory service manual on it, 2 bar (29 psi). But I'd use any lower pressure that does the job.

 

I ended up checking the inner bleeder and that one allowed me to flush the fluid from the drivers rear. I used a probe and a little brake cleaner on the outer bleeder and it improved the flow a little but still it not perfect. Good suggestion on replacing bleeders and changing lines to stainless, I will look at doing that on my next round of maintenance.

 

resurrecting this thread as it seems most participants know a thing or two. Also, i have a 992, but that group doesn't seem to do as much DIY so figuring i'd get better answers here, so hopefully somebody here can shed some light. I'm assuming our brake systems are pretty similar...

Been doing brake bleeds for 20 years on my cars, and always used the wet pressure pump method (filling Motiv pump bleeder, pressurized, bled each caliper, and done). I decided to try the dry method recently, but when i pressurized the Motiv, then drained 6 oz from one of the calipers, the reservoir level didn't budge. That freaked me out. Was i draining fluid from somewhere and adding air?? no idea, so i went back to my normal way. Bled all 4 corners with some extra fluid and all seemed fine. But i really want to know why the reservoir level didn't change.

And i was curious about how much the fluid reservoir holds to begin with (so future bleeds i know how much i need to pump through before it even gets to the lines), so today I went and tried to extract fluid from the reservoir using a hand pump extractor (turkey baster seemed like it was going to take forever, after a few iterations, so moved to the extractor... and yes, i pulled out the yellow filter screen). I extracted out 7 oz, and the reservoir was still almost at max. WTF?? Where was this fluid coming from??

I did a quick bleed of my front left caliper to try and get the fluid levels back to normal. Filled the Motiv with 16 oz of fresh fluid. By the time it was pretty empty, i had drained 12 oz from the caliper. So that 12+7=19oz, but only added 16. Reservoir still at max. Drove the car around, pedal and braking seem fine.

I'm so confused. anybody have insights?

 

Hi all,

This is a very helpful thread, thank you!

I’ll be replacing my brake fluid reservoir this this weekend (rats chewed through my existing one!) and bleeding my brakes...

For what I’m doing, Pelican says I need to do this step:

‘You are going to have to completely bleed your brake system including activating the ABS pump with your scan tool to complete this job.’

My question is, at what point in the process do I use the scan tool to activate the ABS pump? Does it impact the brake bleeding procedure at all? I appreciate any details.

Thanks so much for any advice.

christina