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I'm about to remove my calipers to replace pads, add Tarett studs, and install Spiegler stainless brake lines.
I was thinking to first drain all the brake fluid so that when I removed the stock lines I wouldn't have a bunch of brake fluid coming out.
Since I will be putting in high temp track fluid I want to be rid of the stock fluid anyway.
Then I started wondering whether I'd ever be able to get all the air out of the system what with antilock brakes and such involved.
Is it OK to drain out all the fluid?
Will I be able to get the air out after closing the system and doing a proper bleed?
Yup.... I did when I replaced my brake line to steel braided. Just take your time.
Get 1 extra bleeder screw. Put it on the end of the new brake line (caliper side). Then just quickly disconnect old line from supply side and put the new line on and tighten down. When ready to connect the other end to caliper, remove bleeder screw and connect quickly. Very little fluid will drain out this way.
I’m wavering between doing the wet or dry pressure method. I have a few questions.
When extracting the old fluid from the reservoir for either wet or dry method, I keep seeing that you need to get careful not to extract too much. But the amount of fluid between the min and max line doesn’t seem to be much. How far down below the min line can you go when extracting the old fluid before filling the reservoir with the new stuff? Will a turkey baster even allow you to take too much out?
If doing the wet method, you fill the reservoir with fluid to the max line, then screw the hosed cap onto it with the bleeder filled with remaining new fluid, right? So if you start pumping the pressure bleeder, aren’t you first pumping the air in the bleeder pump hose into the reservoir before the fluid starts going in? How exactly does that work in preventing air from getting pushed through the brake lines?
If doing the dry method, it seems like you have to go back and keep adding fluid to the reservoir as you push it through with the bleeder. Assuming you’re doing a complete flush, how many times do you have to go back to the reservoir throughout the whole 4-wheel process? Seems like if you’re not very careful, you might begin pushing air through the lines.
I’ll be doing my first flush since the vehicle was put into service 4 years ago. Car has only around 8k miles. Should I expect that the color change between the old fluid and the new stuff to be very noticeable? If not, what is the minimum amount of fluid I should expect to flush through on the first (furthest) wheel, then 2nd wheel, then 3rd, and 4th?
I’m wavering between doing the wet or dry pressure method. I have a few questions.
When extracting the old fluid from the reservoir for either wet or dry method, I keep seeing that you need to get careful not to extract too much. But the amount of fluid between the min and max line doesn’t seem to be much. How far down below the min line can you go when extracting the old fluid before filling the reservoir with the new stuff? Will a turkey baster even allow you to take too much out?
If doing the wet method, you fill the reservoir with fluid to the max line, then screw the hosed cap onto it with the bleeder filled with remaining new fluid, right? So if you start pumping the pressure bleeder, aren’t you first pumping the air in the bleeder pump hose into the reservoir before the fluid starts going in? How exactly does that work in preventing air from getting pushed through the brake lines?
If doing the dry method, it seems like you have to go back and keep adding fluid to the reservoir as you push it through with the bleeder. Assuming you’re doing a complete flush, how many times do you have to go back to the reservoir throughout the whole 4-wheel process? Seems like if you’re not very careful, you might begin pushing air through the lines.
I’ll be doing my first flush since the vehicle was put into service 4 years ago. Car has only around 8k miles. Should I expect that the color change between the old fluid and the new stuff to be very noticeable? If not, what is the minimum amount of fluid I should expect to flush through on the first (furthest) wheel, then 2nd wheel, then 3rd, and 4th?
Thanks in advance!
I did a wet bleed yesterday. Didn’t suck any old fluid out. Just topped off reservoir. Poured rest of can into motive bottle, added cap, pumped to 15 and started bleeding. Repumped to 15 as needed when moving to next wheel. Outside bleeder first.
Not sure why air doesn’t go into the reservoir first, but it doesn’t.
I did a wet bleed yesterday. Didn’t suck any old fluid out. Just topped off reservoir. Poured rest of can into motive bottle, added cap, pumped to 15 and started bleeding. Repumped to 15 as needed when moving to next wheel. Outside bleeder first.
Not sure why air doesn’t go into the reservoir first, but it doesn’t.
Easy job.
@AdamSanta85 Thank you. Did you use more than one full Liter of brake fluid to completely flush the brake lines?
Another question for those that splurged a few extra bucks for the ‘Black Label European Adapter”, are you supposed to use the gasket/o-ring insert or is that optional or for certain vehicles. I thought I recall reading on some thread long ago that there was some issues with that.
Another question for those that splurged a few extra bucks for the ‘Black Label European Adapter”, are you supposed to use the gasket/o-ring insert or is that optional or for certain vehicles. I thought I recall reading on some thread long ago that there was some issues with that.
Another question for those that splurged a few extra bucks for the ‘Black Label European Adapter”, are you supposed to use the gasket/o-ring insert or is that optional or for certain vehicles. I thought I recall reading on some thread long ago that there was some issues with that.
Bought the same setup. Plan on doing same in the next month. Could your report back with how things went for you. Thank you in advance.
Another question for those that splurged a few extra bucks for the ‘Black Label European Adapter”, are you supposed to use the gasket/o-ring insert or is that optional or for certain vehicles. I thought I recall reading on some thread long ago that there was some issues with that.
I have that gasket in with no issues; had not read that it could cause an issue. I have only done the dry method and it worked very well. It does take a bit more time because I have to disconnect the bleeder to add more fluid but clean up is faster I believe. Note that if you release pressure from the bleeder, best to release from the bleeder reservoir and not where it attaches to the fluid reservoir.
I’m wavering between doing the wet or dry pressure method. I have a few questions.
When extracting the old fluid from the reservoir for either wet or dry method, I keep seeing that you need to get careful not to extract too much. But the amount of fluid between the min and max line doesn’t seem to be much. How far down below the min line can you go when extracting the old fluid before filling the reservoir with the new stuff? Will a turkey baster even allow you to take too much out?
If doing the wet method, you fill the reservoir with fluid to the max line, then screw the hosed cap onto it with the bleeder filled with remaining new fluid, right? So if you start pumping the pressure bleeder, aren’t you first pumping the air in the bleeder pump hose into the reservoir before the fluid starts going in? How exactly does that work in preventing air from getting pushed through the brake lines?
If doing the dry method, it seems like you have to go back and keep adding fluid to the reservoir as you push it through with the bleeder. Assuming you’re doing a complete flush, how many times do you have to go back to the reservoir throughout the whole 4-wheel process? Seems like if you’re not very careful, you might begin pushing air through the lines.
I’ll be doing my first flush since the vehicle was put into service 4 years ago. Car has only around 8k miles. Should I expect that the color change between the old fluid and the new stuff to be very noticeable? If not, what is the minimum amount of fluid I should expect to flush through on the first (furthest) wheel, then 2nd wheel, then 3rd, and 4th?
Thanks in advance!
When extracting the old fluid from the reservoir for either wet or dry method, I keep seeing that you need to get careful not to extract too much. But the amount of fluid between the min and max line doesn’t seem to be much. How far down below the min line can you go when extracting the old fluid before filling the reservoir with the new stuff? Will a turkey baster even allow you to take too much out?
Dry method - I don't pull old fluid out but rather flush it. I will top up attach bleeder and pump to 15. For first caliper I have to go back and add but for each successive caliper it become less as I am draining less fluid each time.
If doing the dry method, it seems like you have to go back and keep adding fluid to the reservoir as you push it through with the bleeder. Assuming you’re doing a complete flush, how many times do you have to go back to the reservoir throughout the whole 4-wheel process? Seems like if you’re not very careful, you might begin pushing air through the lines.
Maybe 4-5 times
I’ll be doing my first flush since the vehicle was put into service 4 years ago. Car has only around 8k miles. Should I expect that the color change between the old fluid and the new stuff to be very noticeable? If not, what is the minimum amount of fluid I should expect to flush through on the first (furthest) wheel, then 2nd wheel, then 3rd, and 4th?
I didn't notice a color difference. To be extra careful, after flushing all 4 calipers I went back to caliper one and flushed some more. One word of caution, if you have a catch can that has a rivet through the plastic at the top (to hang it), DO NOT fill it up to that point. It is not sealed and I got brake fluid all over my garage floor. That sucked...
What is the torque for the bleeder screws? Porsche service advisor told me 10.5 ftlbs but that isn’t sealing well.
Called another dealer to confirm the torque spec on the bleeder screws. 14nm or 10.3 lb ft. The seepage I was seeing was the residual in the bleeder nipple. I made an adapter for my shop vac that connected to some clear pliable hose. This allowed be to suck out the residual. Took a few times. Kind of a pain. I wonder what the dealer uses for this brake fluid flush. I think a vacuum system at the nipple would be quicker and easier.
Thank you for posting to community. I used this video as a “go by” to flush my brakes last week with Motiv pressure bleeder and dry method. It was very helpful.
05-21-2020, 09:25 PM
