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Installing Data Acq. System: Oil Temperature and Brake Pressure for Air-cooled 911

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Old 12-22-2015 | 03:48 PM
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Default Installing Data Acq. System: Oil Temperature and Brake Pressure for Air-cooled 911

Thanks for your help and suggestions in previous threads.

My car is a 1975 911 with a 3.6L air-cooled engine.

I am in the final stages of fine tuning my AIM EVO4/Gdash installation. I have a plan for the GPS antenna and the EVO4 is already mounted on the transmission tunnel.

The dash will go on a custom carbon fiber panel I will make later this week. It will replace the tach.

As an interim step, I plan on keeping my stock OIL P and T combined gauge, driven by the existing sensors on the engine. I have already wired a second OIL P sender to the EVO4 and it is working fine.

I am looking for a place to mount the AIM OIL temperature sensor. I have some ideas but figured I'd ask here to see if anyone has a specific suggestion for a location on a 993/964-based 3.6. Again, the factory sensor will be kept in place for a while until I am comfortable removing the gauge, so the stock sensor location is occupied.

My original plan was to use a simple on/off channel for brakes, but I am thinking about changing that plan and instead going for brake pressure. So I am looking for specific suggestions for locating an AIM sensor for brake pressure... something that someone has already done that they find works well.

The plumbing for my braking system is close to stock (the components of the system are not stock).

Thank and Happy Holidays.
Old 12-22-2015 | 04:31 PM
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For brake pressure, just use a T in the front line. Peter should stock them or any AiM dealer (or bug shop out your way) has them.

For oil temp, you can put it just about anywhere. I have a few on my car, but for customers I normally just put it in the stock location. I will warn you, always ask yourself if you want the real info before you put something in. If you take oil temps right out of the motor, they will be much higher than you want to know and are comfortable with.

A good location is in the oil tank if you are running an aftermarket tank. Most of those have a NPT port already in them that is just plugged.
Old 12-22-2015 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Romanowski
For brake pressure, just use a T in the front line.

A good location is in the oil tank if you are running an aftermarket tank. Most of those have a NPT port already in them that is just plugged.
All good advice. I would recommend a compression tee fitting that is installed in the metal line close to the front master cylinder outlet. Aim the open port of the tee UP and the threaded portion of the sensor down. Pretty much any GOOD auto parts store can supply a compression tee if they know your metal line size and that you need a 1/8" NPT female off the middle.

If you run AN fittings on the oil lines, Pegasus and Earls, among others, offer gauge ports that can be installed inline. Matt's is good advice on the placement.

http://pitstopusa.com/images/F14607072.jpg
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Old 12-22-2015 | 05:20 PM
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This is the brake fitting http://www.pacificcustoms.com/611755803.html with this adapter http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/me...ct_Code=cnc896
Old 12-22-2015 | 05:28 PM
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Thanks.

Not too sure what you mean by oil temps I don't expect. this is an air cooled engine with a proper oil system (including a huge cooler), and has no oil t problems even in 105 degree weather.

The Porsche brake lines are metric 10 x 1. So I'd need a metric T with the right type of flare, which I think is ISO. If VW's use the same thread and flare I should be able to find a T. Not too worried about finding something that can work, but looking for a known solution shortcut, preferably with pictures.

As for oil temp, I have a stock tank. The lines are big... -12 and -16. As far as I can tell no one makes gauge adapters with 1/8 npt gauge ports for lines that size-- they are usually available in smaller an sizes for fuel lines (I have such an adapter for fuel pressure).

Looks like I will have a fab project on my hands.
Old 12-22-2015 | 05:30 PM
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Thanks Matt. I found a few examples of these parts. The ones in the links you provided look good so i will order some.
Old 12-22-2015 | 05:33 PM
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If you have a 1/8" NPT male brake light switch, you could tee another sensor off that port by using this: https://www.extremepsi.com/store/pro...2&cat=0&page=1
Old 12-22-2015 | 05:34 PM
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You are used to seeing oil temps taken from a colder spot on the engine. I take temps right out of the engine and in the oil tank. They are about 100* different. If you took oil temps closer to the bearings, they would be even higher. Oil temps in the tank, after going through the cooler are the lowest usually. So, it really matters on where you take the temps for what to expect out of them.
Old 12-22-2015 | 05:45 PM
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Thanks Peter. My 911, like many, has a mechanical brake light switch.

As for oil temp, I am aware that expectations depend on where you take readings. That is why I am going to leave in my factory set up for a while. Eventually I will correlate existing gauge readings to AIM/DAQ system readings so I can set a proper range for the alarms.

I think it could be great to come up with some simple solutions which could be replicated by others. There are many cars like mine around, including those used in vintage racing.

My friends at JWE have created suh a standardized approach, but they use Motec and don't keep factory sensors or gauges. And the engines are 3L's. They have quite a fleet of cars set up this way.

If one could package up and EVO4/GDASH 911 kit with the basics and a well-conceived DIY install, it could be beneficial, but alas there are probably few too many configs that would be required. Need to ponder that a bit.
Old 12-22-2015 | 06:02 PM
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It works for JWE because they are building the car and offer it 1 way. When you do solutions like Jerry, Peter, and myself, they are all custom. The power and configurations of these systems are almost limitless.

If you replace your stock sender, you want to be under 245 F for oil temps. With the data being recorded, you will very quickly have a good basis for what your engine normally runs.
Old 12-22-2015 | 06:27 PM
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Yep I am aware of that, and respect the fact that you guys have probably hundreds if not thousands of different installed configs.

I have run without an oil T warning light for years, but I do look at the actual readings from time to time. i will figure out a location for the AIM sensor and establish a correlation. Then set the warning at a temp my engine builder dictates.



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