I have not been able to get the AIM temp sender to give me any useful info. Mine is mounted in my engine's breather cover right next to the ECO temp sender. The ECU does NOT have a CAN output.

I still have the factory sender and gauge installed, and it has worked well for years. The sender is Porsche part number 911-606-112-00.

Do any of you have a custom sender profile for this sender? I'd like to use it instead of the apparently fallible AIM sender.

Thanks.

 

Why do you say it hasn't given you anything useful? Is it working? I've never put a temp sensor on the breather, but I would not expect it to be an accurate oil temp because it's not bathed in oil.

The stock sensor is a resistance based sensor. You'll need a pull up resistor in the patch cable as well as the custom config. I don't have one as I don't use those sensors.

 

 

The breather cover location was convenient. And it works fine for engine management. The first AIM sensor I placed there failed almost immediately. I have a second one in there now-- we'll see.

I have been relying on the factory sender/gauge for 16 years. It is a frame of reference.

It would be nice to use the same sender and have the same readings available in the stored data.

The same ks kind of true for oil p. Right now I have a stock VDO sender in the stock location with readings displayed on a stock gauge.

I also have the AIM-style VDO sender with appropriately-wired PU resistor. Never gotten good readings from that set up. Just gibberish.

I know it can work, but I am not motivated to make it work. I don't really mind having the stock gauge, and I don't really need to log oil P and oil T. BUT it would be nice to use the Gdash warning capabilities with numbers I trust.

 

A man with 1 watch knows what time it is, a man with two watches is confused.

It sounds like you have some problems in your setup. The pressure and temp senders are very reliable and should provide accurate data without a problem. If you're not seeing that, you need to spend the time and figure out what is wrong.

The breather is not a good location for the ECU either. It works because when you set the ECU tables, you can adjust things how you want, but it's not accurate to the engine temp at the heads and intake where the fuel management needs to happen.

 

I bought the replacement AIM sender from a local dealer/shop with extensive experience. They told me the things fail frequently. In fact more than one AIM dealer has told me that.

I have no real reason to change anything, since I really don't "need" to log oil p and oil t. And my eyes/brain are trained to look at my factory gauge several times each lap. So warnings are kind of redundant.

Of course I already know why the ECU/mapping works fine with the EFI temp sensor in the breather location. My engine builder (who also tunes the engine) chose that location, and he has done so in many engines for many years. He is one of the USA's best 911 engine builders and has extensive experience.

I suspect that if if you lived out here and ran an air-cooled car and wanted to run up front, you'd be his customer.

Anyway, no need to fix what aint broken.

I just figured that if someone already had the LUT for the factory temp sender, I might just tie it in to the DAQ system instead of the AIM sender. I think Dave and Ellen may have it.

 

Too many variations of the Porsche temp sensor. I've tried to use them in the past but gave up. I would place the AIM temp sender in the same location as the factory, just make an adapter. As far as VDO oil pressure sender goes, the factory sender will work with the AIM VDO harness. I usually connect to the green/red wire behind the dash instead of running to the engine, you must disconnect the dash gauge though. You might need to make a custom sensor .

 

Thanks. Since I have a gdash, there is plenty of real estate for my factory gauge, and I intend to keep it.

Maybe I'll disconnect the AIM temp sensor and use the input for something else. But so far I have not come up with any ideas that would be useful in my application.

My needs for a DAQ system are admittedly modest.

I may even re-install. my conventional tachometer and mount the gdash off to the side. I like to use exit rpms in real time as a figure of merit sometimes while driving, and the gdash is much more difficult to deal with than an analog gauge.

 

 

I am aware of the dash's capabilities, and thanks again for selling it to me.

I suspect that there are a few Ph.D. dissertations out there that compare/contrast/discuss the differences between dealing with an analog gauge like a conventional tach, and a digital tool. In my case the digital tool is a gdash, and it is pretty small. For grins I may try mounting it to the steering wheel at some point.

My gdash is set up with strategic shift light choices, and of course I can use those lights to note exit rpm points. I have done this type of thing before with a sequential shift light module. It is just a little harder to set up and use than a tach needle.

My car has changed quite a bit recently, and I am still climbing the curve with the tires and gearing. I have found that relying on my old methods helps me climb the curve more quickly.

I have been driving on track and racing for 30 years, and my eyes are trained for analog. Watching "Going Faster" back in '87 stuck with me, and I like to use exit rpm achievements in real time every so often. Increments of 200-300 can be helpful. Harder for me to see and register numbers that small with the gdash.

If I were driving/racing as much as I did 15 or so years ago, and I had a 5-10 year plan to continue, I think I would re-train myself.

I have a SmartyCam (which I love-- thanks to Mark from OG Racing), and it is helpful to have rpm rendered onto the files, along with WOT and brake on/off. I don't need much more than that to accomplish what I want to accomplish from a driving standpoint ( for retrospective "analysis").

You may recall some of the reasons I invested in the AIM system...

wanted a gps-based laptimer

wanted rpm, what and brake on/off in the video (I used a second tach and simple brake and WOT dash lights for this previously-- worked very, very well)

wanted a way to record rpm vs. AFR at/near WOT on the video (and still want to be able to extract this from the data files)

The latter has already helped in tuning the engine, which my builder/friend prefers to do on the track. This is already a big win.

I do not consider myself a grudging user of these newer tools. I do believe that what something is worth depends on what you compare it to.

Back when I was driving and racing a lot more I was more motivated to push envelopes. For example, I was willing to RENT a full sized VHS camera, mount it in my car and use the video to go faster in AX, (and to help my wife go faster).

In any case, I appreciate all of the responses.

 

 

Oh yeah, and I appreciate it. And of course I appreciate you, Matt and Jerry and others that try to help here.