YRUNVS

I have been reading and reading about leather used in automobiles, the various types and such. I am frankly confused at this point. All I want to know is what is the correct cleaning, protecting, hydrating, etc. I need to do to keep my new Porsche investment in pristine condition. So the question, if it has been answered before, I apologize for asking again; What is Prosche "Natural Leather?" Coated, lightly coated, uncoated, aniline dyed Help! Thanks for all replies. Doug

TOGWT

Aniline or Pigmented Natural leather is an absorbent, transparent dye with an immersion type process rather than having a pigmentation added, the dye provides an even colour and, so that the original grain surface can be seen completely unhindered it is then protected with a thin layer of completely transparent urethane so that it doesn’t conceal the natural characteristics of the hide. This leather is also used for perforated leather finishes.


“Leather Surface Identification” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ml#post1451654

YRUNVS

Dr. Jon,
Thanks again for your guidance. Would you think then the following is an appropriate plan for care and maintenance of this upolstery material:

If I understand you correctly the espresso/cognac "natural leather" in my Cayenne on the seats, doors and dash board is likely aniline in type but with a very light polymer coating for protection. To condition prior to routine use of the vehicle, Leather Master vital should be used after a brief damp cotton cloth wipe down followed by the protection cream. After several months of use, clean with the Foam or soft cleaners followed by Vital and protection cream. Would you suggest 303 on the dash rather than the protection cream as it is the sun, not greasy humans that will assault the leather there?

thanks Doug

TOGWT

^^^ Roger that...

YRUNVS

Thank you, your experience speaks volumes to me! Thanks for sharing.

Matt(inMA)

completely in sync with that! My thanks also!

Matt

w00tPORSCHE

I use Leatherique rejuvenator oil twice a year for conditioning. It is not a true oil but a protein based collagen emulsion which should be applied generously to the leather every 6 months (depending on usage). I pick a nice hot day and let the car sit out for a couple of hours before treatment as warmth let's the pores open up making penetration of the product easier. You should then apply 4 ounce of product to each seat using a foam brush (u can never apply too much as only what absorbs absorbs, the rest stays on the surface and can be wiped of) and let it sit for a couple of hours. Then prestine cleaner is used for the final wipe down and cleaning.

Contrary to popular belief even new car's leather needs to be conditioned (remember the hide sitting in the factory may still be old and devoid of the moisturization and rich blood circulation that used to be there when the cow was alive) and 2. with leatherique it is conditioning first then cleaning. So rejuvenator oil first then followed by the prestine clean.
The Sonax or Prestine cleaner is my maintenance leather cleaner and it can be used everyday or once a week for routine cleaning. I love to try out different products and detailing is my hobby. Hence the excuse to load up my garage cabinet with more than one product for a particular task. Natural leather IMHO is worth the premium only if you keep you cars for a long time as they age very well. If you are the one who changes cars every 3 to 5 yrs then you eat the cost for that expensive option.

TOGWT

Years ago, during the old style of processing, the leather was simply 'stuffed' with oils and fats and they were simply left to just sit in the fibre structure. But over time the oils migrated out of the leather, whether through use or heat (such as automotive leathers exposed to the sun which resulted in the fogging haze on the windows).

Consequently, these oils needed to be replaced at regular intervals and so the term of 'feeding leather' grew. And rightly so, because back then the leather really did need to be replenished, otherwise it would become hard, shrink and crack. However, leather manufacturing and the development of chemicals used has come a long way.

Nowadays, modern fat liquors are technically advanced using high quality, specially processed natural and synthetic oils that meet very high specifications.

These are typically fully reacted to the fibre structure, and as a consequence only minimal amounts can migrate out of the leather. Because of this low migration continually adding creams and lotions to replace lost oils is therefore no longer necessary.

The use of oils, replacement of fat liquor, oil-based conditioning, proteins or the adjustment of pH levels is totally unnecessary; the surface is a urethane that contains pigmentation (colour) it neither needs or benefits from any of the above

linen grey ghost

To poster: TOGWT

What would you recommend for cleaning and protecting seats in a 1995 993 (cashmere) leather (dry & cracking) with exclusive crest embossed headrests?

Having read the website linked in one of your post I believe that the seats are 'protected leather', just looking for a concise program of attacking this task. Is it as simple as: 'foam' clean, then 'cream' protect?

Thanks for your insight.

TOGWT

Three Step Leather Care

Simple cleaning, hydration and protection are the three steps that will prolong the life of finished leather; urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation

1. Clean - there are two cleaning-related factors that can cause your leather to wear prematurely. The first is dirt, and the second is oil, combined they become very abrasive, as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear

2. Hydrated – when leather tanner’s talk about conditioning leather they are referring to its moisture content, re-hydration is used to restore or maintain fluid balance (transpiration and evaporation of moisture); not the replenishment or replacement of the fat liquoring, oils and / or waxes.

3. Protection - is essential as it will protect the surface finish with a sacrificial layer; this way you are not actually cleaning the finished leather's original surface, but cleaning from the surface of the protection. It also makes dirt easier to clean off


“Proper Finished Leather Cleaning and Care” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ning-care.html

rs10

Old thread, I know, but maybe still the right one for questions about the difference between natural leather and the regular leather.

First, natural leather is apparently aniline leather. And aniline leather is said to be died through. So if cracks develop in Porsche natural leather, should they be the same color as the surface? (Even if the leather is then treated with a conditioner? I can imagine that maybe the cracks are the same color, but they are a different texture - they are basically suede - and when a leather care product not suitable for suede is applied, it can darken the color. (I've read on this forum that conditioner can darken cracks, just not sure this applies to natural leather.) Maybe water could do the same?)

Second, I would like to repair some natural brown leather seats and there are a number of shops which claim to sell original Porsche leather, including natural brown. But given that aniline leather is made from high quality hides, I would expect it to cost more, and it doesn't. On the other hand, while ordering a car with natural leather from Porsche did cost maybe 20% more than the other leather options, it may also have come with more leather. All the parts that were vinyl on some cars were leather with a natural leather interior. Anyway, what I'm trying to figure out is this: Is it plausible that if natural brown leather costs the same as black or savannah beige leather, it is original Porsche natural brown leather?

Finally, some sellers describe all their Porsche leathers as nappa (or napa) leather. A bit of googling suggests that some leather could indeed be described as both aniline and nappa/napa. Though I'm hoping it's unlike the napa I'm used to - I don't much like BMW napa leather. Any views on which Porsche leathers (regular, natural, and/or smooth) could be described as napa/nappa?

Thanks for any insight into this!

Crazy Eddie

I just bought a new Porsche only 2 months ago ( my first in 27 yrs ) !!
I have the deviated platinum stitching, so I want to make sure what I use will not make the thread darker, etc ...
I did see that you recommend this product for that Love the car and want to protect the new leather ...
I did see the Porsche brand conditioner and cleaner, see picture at bottom of the conditioner
Which should I buy and use ?
I do already have the 303 but have only used it on the plastic and rubber
My earlier Porsche, only have a leather steering wheel... hence I am clueless as to how to maintain the leather
Thanks in advance for your advice
Regards
Ed

TOGWT

Leather Stitching
Its greatest enemies are; sun, heat, oil (including body oils) perspiration (that contains urea as well as organic salts and acids) and Try to avoid getting leather chemicals on the stitching or in the seams as it can discolour some threads.

If the chemical gets in between panels, it may be difficult to get it out. This may even weaken the backing at the seams.

Leather stitching is usually cotton and nylon mix, nylon is attacked by solvents, they melt it and weaken the threads. An oil-based product will attract abrasive dirt / grit and permeated the leather via the stitching, the oil will soften the leather, and the abrasive dirt plus friction may cause the leather to tear and / or the stitching to fail. Do not use harsh solvent-based cleaners as this may cause the stitching to fail over time

Stitching is somewhat friable if subjected to excessive abrasion. Bearing this in mind the cleaner and applicator (a semi-soft toothbrush is ideal) needs to ‘do the work’ without relying on excess friction

a) Clean stitching using a medium / hard horse hair brush, a toothbrush or a sponge, spray and work the aqueous (water- based) cleaner (Leather Masters™ Strong Effect Cleaner); don't spray on the wheel surfaces, spray on the brush, constantly rinse the brush in clean water, remove cleaner by rinsing with clean water.

b) Use an aqueous (water- based) foaming cleaner; Leather Masters™ Foam Cleaner, shake aerosol thoroughly and then lightly rub surface and immediately wipe with a terry towel to remove excess moisture. You may need to repeat this process.

Once the stitching and the seating surfaces are clean apply Leather Masters™ Leather Protection this will help to keep the stitching clean and inhibit the ingress of dirt and soil

Crazy Eddie

OK so ditch the Porsche stuff and go with this ? Since this car is brand new I am assuming I can forgo the cleaner this time around and just use the protection ? Also.... So I can put the Leather Masters protection on the stitching, just very sparingly ? or avoid it completely ?
TIA for your help
Regards
Ed

95_993

I have been using the Leather Masters products for several years. Although I do not have contrast stitching, I am very satisfied with the results and the products. I purchased from Phil at Detailers Domain (no affiliation).