Nasty Swirls: best 'fine cut' remover for non-clearcoat OE black 944 Turbo?
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Nasty Swirls: best 'fine cut' remover for non-clearcoat OE black 944 Turbo?
Sorry for the thread sans-photo at the moment, but the swirls on my new '86 951 are deep enough in a few places that they can be seen from all angles. Not down to the metal, but they're pretty gnarly. What's the safest 'fine cut' abrasive swirl remover I can use on this non-clearcoat original black paint to bring it from at least 6/10 condition up to 8/10 with a bit more shine? I do not have a Porter Cable yet, but am considering, yet may just get something ASAP and just apply by hand as I always do (I'm an experienced Zaino guy, btw). Once I have the swirls taken care of, I intend to use Zaino products from the claybar up to build up some polish. Thanks in advance!
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Before you do anything I would have the paint measured to make sure you have enough to work with.
You will definitely need some type of machine to perform paint correction. I have been using Meguiars M105 and M205 which is a two step process. You'll need cutting and finishing pads for this work to get really good results. Do a search in the 928 and detailing forum under my screen name, I have posted several DIY on how and what to use for single stage Porsche paints.
You will definitely need some type of machine to perform paint correction. I have been using Meguiars M105 and M205 which is a two step process. You'll need cutting and finishing pads for this work to get really good results. Do a search in the 928 and detailing forum under my screen name, I have posted several DIY on how and what to use for single stage Porsche paints.
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Be cognizant that clear coat removal is not a liner process; and the first paint renovation will remove the most UV protection, therefore the above are probably conservative estimates. Two variables need to be established; how much clear coat is available and how much clear coat can be removed without compromising the paint systems long-term durability / paint warranty
A paint thickness reading of > 4 Mil ( 100 µ (Microns) is reasonably safe for polishing. 3 – 3.5 Mil ( 80-90 µ) I wouldn't use anything stronger than > 2000 grit polish, 2.75 – 3.0 Mil (70-80 µ) > 2500 grit polish and under 2.75 Mil (70 µ) use a glaze. The readings tend to vary from panel to panel and are thinner towards the panel edge.
• 200µ + can be expected on older cars that have been hand painted or a re-painted vehicle
• 100 – 200µ 4 – 8 mil - normal paint thickness
• 80 – 100 µ - 3 – 4 mils, thin paint
• 80 µ < - less than 3 mil, very thin paint
A paint thickness reading of > 4 Mil ( 100 µ (Microns) is reasonably safe for polishing. 3 – 3.5 Mil ( 80-90 µ) I wouldn't use anything stronger than > 2000 grit polish, 2.75 – 3.0 Mil (70-80 µ) > 2500 grit polish and under 2.75 Mil (70 µ) use a glaze. The readings tend to vary from panel to panel and are thinner towards the panel edge.
• 200µ + can be expected on older cars that have been hand painted or a re-painted vehicle
• 100 – 200µ 4 – 8 mil - normal paint thickness
• 80 – 100 µ - 3 – 4 mils, thin paint
• 80 µ < - less than 3 mil, very thin paint
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Great tips so far, folks- thanks. The most abrasive stuff I have on hand so far is Zaino 'Z-PC' which works wonders but I'm not sure it's going to be strong enough. Z-AIO is even lighter duty but a great daily-driver all-in-one polish solution I'll likely use after I finish getting the swirls out (have a bottle of this too). I'll probably apply some of this by hand on the nose in the next few weeks and see how it comes out. Keep in mind there is no clearcoat.