May be my expectations and attitude has changed, but lately it is starting to bug me that my paint would fail the sandwich bag test after just one drive. By failing, I meant that the paint is no longer "perfect" to touch. I examine the paint religiously with sungun, sunlight, fluorresant, halogen, natural, you name it. No swirls so far. Jus contaminants. A few of them per sq ft.

Either, that has always been the case, I just never noticed. Or our roads are just getting dirtier. Or worst, my paint protection is not up to par.

My car is 2 months old. May be my expectation to keep it "perfect" is just unrealistic. My last Pcar was not new, so I might not have scrutinized it so much.

I used Menzerna PO85RD to finish the new car prep, with grey pad. My car is covered with Menzerna Powerlock, a couple of coats with red pad, then topped off with Pinnacle Souveran. Is this as slick as it can be? Is it too soft, or too hard that contaminants are not sliding or bouncing off. Or am I just ocd?

 

I'm like you, not OCD, but like my car clean to the touch. Good Luck!

 

For leading edges, like the front bumper and side mirrors, I like using RejeX wax to help with bug removal. Great for the wheels too. Whole car if you like.

My cars gets a ton of bug strikes in 1 weekend drive of +300 miles.

 

What is your wash routine?

What soap, wash mitt, and drying towel are you using?

Are you using any spray wax?

All these things will play a factor in how well the paint holds up.

 

Are you using detailer's clay to remove the rail / brake dust that is causing the textured surface affect?

 

Clinton when you say that the paint doesn't feel smooth to the touch test are you referring to placing your hand in a plastic bag and running it over the surface or are you referring to just running your hands over the paint after you have wiped it down?

Try a basic form of spit shining with the Souveran. Apply a coat to the entire car, go back to the beginning and spray ice cold water on the surface and apply a second coat. Once you've finished the entire car go back to the first panel and start removing the wax. Result is a super slick finish. I also noticed that Pinnacles Crystal Mist works very nicely and generates less static than Meguiars which results in a cleaner car and less microfiber lint.

 

The thing is, I shouldn't feel like I have to clay after eveytime I take it out, right?

I use Griot's Claybar and Speed Shine. Twice since I got the car ( 2months). First time was for new car prep, the car had 200 miles by the time I drove it home.

I did it again at 500miles, when I stripped and reapplied everything. Wash with P21S TAW -> clay -> Menzerna pwr lock by PC -> Pinnacle by hand.

I use the Cali duster, wipe down with microfiber towel and Speed Shine, after every drive. And I check the paint. With lights, and by touch, with and without the bag.

I wash the car every other time after a drive. So almost every weekend. I use P21S bodywork shampoo, 2 buckets, mitt, etc. P21S Total AutoWash for undercarriage, wheelwells. Sonax for the wheels. I think my routine is pretty good. I should be covered.

Used pretty much the same routine for my 964 too, although I know older car's paint is different.

My car is garaged, not climate controlled. Maybe the heat wave last month made the structure for the sealant and wax too soft? It was never bonded right?

I also think the roads around here are dirtier this year. So It might be just that. But I just want to make sure that it wasn't something on my end.

 

A few more questions. Does the car sit outside at all and or do you park it near any trees? I've noticed tree sap on my paint even if it's been out for only 30 minutes near a tree.

Does the car see rain?

 

[Maybe the heat wave last month made the structure for the sealant and wax too soft? It was never bonded right?]

Provided the sealant was applied to a clean surface with no oils present it should have formed a bond to the paint. The polymers in a wax will help 'anchor ' them to the sealant (as long as you applied the wax on top of the sealant it should be ok)

Melting point - Polymers (including Acrylic polymers) 350.°F, Synthetic blends (Carnauba wax / polymers) 200.°F, Carnauba wax 183.°F, Bee’s wax 130.°F in actual practice the high temperatures frequently encountered by vehicles from the radiation causes wax compounds to melt.

 

After claying, I'd highly recommend polishing. This is THE most important step assuring you've got a clean surface ready for a wax. If that surface isn't prepped properly, the wax cannot bond that well.

Try and see if it helps.

 

Well, if the roads weren't dirty, this past weekend did it. Weather is perfect here in NY after Irene, I took the Spyder out, drove a few blocks, had to turn around. All kinds of debris on the road.

I hope everyone made out OK.