scotyp

Guys,
I would like to start making the engine bay look tidier on my SC. I've been reading about this in detail on other cars (Acura)but can someone tell me about what precautions should be taken on this 3.0 engine bay? What to cover, what cleaners they use etc . Any other tips would be appreciated!

Scot

MoeMistry

Simply cover any open intake areas and you're good. I always run the engine for about 5 minutes to warm it up. This way, most of the water turns into steam. The safest and most effective cleaner IMHO is P21S Total Auto Wash. Spray on all metal, painted, rubber, plastic, etc. surfaces. Let it dwell for about 5 minutes, use a soft horse hair bristle brush to agitate everything, then rinse. Blow dry the engine and run it for about 10 minutes. That's it. Repeat if necessary until the desired results are achieved.

http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...to-wash/Detail

http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...C-wheel/Detail

Can't wait to see before/after pictures.

TOGWT

To add to what Moe has suggested-

Protection of Electrical Components

The most important electrical components are sealed ‘water resistant’, that is to say against low pressure, water splashing encountered in the course of daily driving conditions. As long as you avoid directing a strong stream of water (or a pressure washer at close range) directly into these components, you will be fine.

You need to cover various parts prior to using any cleaning products, sprays (water deterrent, formula 40(WD-40)) or water.
• Alternator
• Alarm Housing
• Intercooler
• Battery terminals (if not covered already)
• Induction kit cone (if you have one)
• Coil packs
• Electronic control units (ECU)
• On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) port
• Air intake systems (exposed air filters) can be covered with plastic wrap and a rubber band


1. This is not an exhaustive list, nor is it marquee specific, if in doubt use a water repellent (WD-40) and exercise common sense

2. Tin foil is a better alternative to using cling-film for the alternator, alarm housing etc as it is easier to mould and has greater protection properties. I suggest you use a plastic bag for the induction kit and just wrap it tight over the end to stop any water ingress.

3. For the intercooler the best way to cover is to get a flat sheet of cardboard and just cut it to size so it fits and covers the fins. Cardboard will normally protect the fins for the duration of the washing. It will get soaked so discard after the wash.

An extract from one of a series of unbiased “Detailing Technical Papers” © TOGWT ™ Ltd Copyright 2002-2009, all rights reserved

scotyp

Thanks for the tips Moe and TOGWT! Have you guys had much success with just Simple Green cleaner?

Scot

TOGWT

The newer formula is a good, biologically safe degreaser that works well on engine grease (pay attention to how you dispose of the runoff, as engine oil / grease will nullify the biologically safe aspects)

Marine Blue

Simple Green is an excellent product if used according to instructions. Here is a quote from their website:

However, caution and common sense must be used: aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times for unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green® product residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation.

The same probably applies to any other cleaning product including P21S Total Auto Wash which is one of my favorites.

Good luck and post some before/after pics!