Paul902

Hi,

I have never used a claybar before and have some questions:

1) is the claybar a one-time, or limited use thing, since it picks up stuff that you don't want to rub over your paint? IE it gets dirty. How many uses do you get and do you use the whole claybar at once, or break it into smaller pieces when new.

2) I've been using P21S products. Would the following steps work well for using the claybar:
-P21S shampoo
-P21S sampoo again
-P21S deep cleanse
-claybar
-P21S shampoo
-P21S wax

Anything I should do different? I'm not sure if I should deep cleanse before or after the claybar.

thanks!

Black993

I think typically you would want to polish after using the clay as it can leave marring in the paint.
I'll leave that to the experts to answer fully though

I did:
- Wash/Dry
- Clay
- Compound
- Polish
- Seal
- Wax
- Detail spray

Came out great. You may not need to compound depending on your paint

Marine Blue

A polishing step will definitely help bring out the shine, otherwise your steps look good.

Take your time and monitor the clay to make sure contaminants aren't scratching your paint. When dealing with very dirty areas use a small piece and discard it so you don't risk scratching the rest of your paint. Work from top to bottom, same procedure as washing the car.

Detailed Image

Great advice on the clay by Black993 and Marine Blue. Sometimes I'll save some of the semi-contaminated (non-paint safe) clay and use it to clean non-polished wheels or door jambs, etc. Keep in mind though, if it's contaminated it can add imperfections.

P21S Deep Cleanse, you are referring to the P21S Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser? If so, I'd clay before it, then apply the paintwork cleaner. It contains micro-abrasives so if you do add some light marring, it could remove them if applied properly. It also preps the surface nicely prior to using the P21S wax and they are designed to compliment each other.

Here's the order I'd use them in:
-P21S shampoo
-claybar
-P21S shampoo
-P21S paintwork cleaner
-P21S wax

I don't see a need to wash 2x in a row if you are going to clay and re-wash after claying. Can save you a step.

Hope this helps.

George

Paul902

Hi guys,

thank you for the insightful comments. I'll follow your revised order, George, but I do like to wash a car twice before doing any wax, etc, just in case the first wash missed a few spots.

For the polishing step are there any products that can be applied by hand, or does this require a random orbital polisher?

Detailed Image

Some polishes are designed for hand application, such as Meguiars ScratchX and can be found locally. The problem with using some polishes by hand is as the abrasives get larger it's harder and harder to break them down effectively by hand. If you don't break them down completely or properly, what can end up happening is you are just grinding those abrasive particles into your paint, which can leave behind some marring and other imperfections.

I never recommend using more than a light finishing polish by hand for this reason. Most polishes these days are designed to be applied with a quality buffer and that is also when you'll experience the best possible results.

Regarding the double wash, I can see why you'd want to if you weren't using a clay bar then re-washing after the clay. The way you had it set up you are performing 4 steps in a row that remove contamination, I though it was somewhat overkill. Wash -> Clay -> Re-Wash should leave you with almost no contamination on your vehicle, especially if you take the time to clay thoroughly. Just trying to save you some time.

Keep us posted on how things turn out.

George

Black993

I have to agree. Buy a porter-cable or similar and be done with it. It speeds up the process, and as George said, it allows to you break down the product properly. I used to do all my cars by hand. Picked up a PC for cheap and the difference it made was amazing. Well worth the money and the ease of use. The difference in working the product in fully is where you get the most benefit and results I think.

brad@tirerack.com

Just don't push too hard. See the spot in the middle of this door that looks lightly sanded? It's from a hard claybar that I pushed too hard with. Easily polished out, but I had planned to anyway. If claybarring was the only step you plan to do it would have taken some rubbing to get this out.



If new at it use a very soft claybar. Griot's or Gloss-It green. As for machines, check out the Griot's unit. High amp, as good as the PC, and LIFETIME guarantee. I use a Cyclo and love it.

Paul902

I worked on the car thurs night and friday. I was using Wolfgang claybar. Overall it was an easier/quicker process than I had imagined. The surface definitely benefitted as it felt much smoother. I followed up with a shampoo, deep cleanse, and wax. I'm pretty happy with the results. The finish looks and feels nicer.

I do have some light swirl marks that could be polished out. I've been a bit intimidated by the thought of screwing up with a polisher. Maybe I'll have this professionally done, at some point, or buy one and practice a few times on my old Golf.

Thanks for you help!

Marine Blue

Glad it worked out well.

I would buy a nice PC and practice before handing my car to a "professional" unless you are absolutely certain that they do quality work. I've seen so many hack jobs its unbelievable.

PC's are relatively safe with some practice and safe handling techniques.

Detailed Image

+1, there's nothing to be intimidated if you buy a quality random orbital or dual action buffer (just stay away from rotary buffers) and you do some reading up on how to get the most out of it. By the time you practice a little, chances are you'll do as good if not better than your local professional, unless there is someone who is proven in your area.

Here's a link to our polishing how-to guide which should walk you through just about everything you'd need to know about getting started in the right direction.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

Paul902

MarineBlue/George, I appreciate the input. I think I read up on this a bit more, then maybe make the plunge.

cheers,
Paul

deg

I have never used a mechanical buffer and would like to purchase the PC as I have read many successful reports in this forum - will this not easily remove the clear coat?

Marine Blue

With proper use and products it would be very difficult to strip the clearcoat. It can eventually after many years of use with strong polishes remove the clearcoat but you would need to be using it very frequently for that to happen.

deg

Thanks for sharing your experiences and I will source a PC and will advise the outcome in a couple of weeks.