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Old 05-23-2009, 04:09 PM
  #16  
brad@tirerack.com
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Try the Griot's unit. Basically the same as a Porter Cable, but with a lifetime guarantee. I have a Cyclo with the dual 4" heads and I love it, too. Same principle as a PC as it's dual action, but the surface area is greater and you can do more polishing in the same amount of time. They've been around for ages and got their popularity polishing airplanes. And, you can buy carpet brushes for them, too.

www.cyclotoolmakers.com

I bought mine from Rich at www.gloss-it.net Great guy and very helpful.
Old 05-23-2009, 08:33 PM
  #17  
944obscene
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I would not do claying without polishing the paint afterward. I would at least do a light swirl removal polish after claying.

WITH THAT SAID:

You can use a light clay without much effect to the paint. Really, if the job is done right, you won't really mess with the paint much. Use COPIOUS amounts of clay lube. One great way to lube, is to use Meguires Quick Detailer. A lot of people like clay magic blue (I think it's softer). This is, of course, if there isn't too much contaminate removal required.

On a first-time job, I'd start with a heavier clay, then work with a medium clay, followed by a medium and light polish and wax (more to it than that, but you know).

Here's a video that a member of Autopia made, showing great basics for claying. The only thing I'd change, is using a larger piece of clay, to cover more area (ensure missing less spots).



After that, I'd definately go back and do the standard swirl and light scratch removal, followed by glaze, wax/sealant; whatever your choice.
Old 08-09-2019, 06:11 PM
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Tim7139
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Folks, get microfiber towels from Mckees37. They are unbelievable, the thickest, plush, units I have ever used.
Remember, don’t throw them in the washer, use microfiber wash liquid and hand wash them to keep’em pristine, Takes a bottlecap and about 5 minutes

SORRY GUYS, THIS WAS SUPPOSED TO BE IN THE “PAINT CORRECTION “ THREAD.
Old 08-09-2019, 10:02 PM
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Marine Blue
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Originally Posted by Tim7139
Folks, get microfiber towels from Mckees37. They are unbelievable, the thickest, plush, units I have ever used.
Remember, don’t throw them in the washer, use microfiber wash liquid and hand wash them to keep’em pristine, Takes a bottlecap and about 5 minutes

SORRY GUYS, THIS WAS SUPPOSED TO BE IN THE “PAINT CORRECTION “ THREAD.
No time or patience for hand washing microfibers, a good alternative is to wash your microfibers separate from anything else, that will keep the lint away. Also use a cool dryer setting, it will take longer to dry but it will keep the fibers soft.
Old 08-18-2019, 02:50 PM
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indianam3
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Originally Posted by Marine Blue
No time or patience for hand washing microfibers, a good alternative is to wash your microfibers separate from anything else, that will keep the lint away. Also use a cool dryer setting, it will take longer to dry but it will keep the fibers soft.
My simple rules for my towels - there may be better ones, these have worked for me.

1) Wash on cold or luke warm (microfiber is heat sensitive)
2) Many liquids are available and good, never use a powder detergent - particles will get stuck in your towels
3) Dry on no heat or low heat
4) Never use a dryer sheet or softener of any kind
5) never mix with cotton - wash towels by themselves in safer
Old 08-18-2019, 03:21 PM
  #21  
Marine Blue
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Originally Posted by indianam3
My simple rules for my towels - there may be better ones, these have worked for me.

1) Wash on cold or luke warm (microfiber is heat sensitive)
2) Many liquids are available and good, never use a powder detergent - particles will get stuck in your towels
3) Dry on no heat or low heat
4) Never use a dryer sheet or softener of any kind
5) never mix with cotton - wash towels by themselves in safer
That’s exactly the procedure I use although I do use warm or hot water for the washing machine as I don’t believe it gets hot enough to damage the fibers. I do also use the longer wash cycle on microfibers to release as much of the soil/grease as possible.



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