ezinternet

I've enjoyed reading this forum and learning about detailing and care, and appreciate the knowledge and perspective of the professional detailers. As an old-school guy, used to Sonax wash and Blitz or P21s waxes, I am a bit overwhlemed by the range of new products and techniques.

Today, really today (!) I have a new, brand new, 997 sitting in the garage here. Untouched by the wash jockey at the dealer, the car still has the sticky tape residue. And it is dusty. I asked them to give it to me basically untouched.

(1) So, what do I do to (a) clean the car gently, and (b) remove the tape residue? I thought to flush with Sonax and then use the 3M product, or diluted simple green on the slight tacky goo line. Is isopropyl alcohol something safe to use?

(2) Next, I suspect that many here would argue for clay to remove embedded shmutz from the sea voyage, but I hate to make this car my first experience with clay. What's the alternative? P21S paint cleaner? (See, old school

(3) And finally, can anyone recommend professional detailers in the Chicago area? I thought to do this myself, but for the first time on a new car I'm having second thoughts about foamers, washes, clay, one-step, sealers, carnubas, etc. In short, I'm a bit overwhelmed.

I'm in your hands guys and gals ...

Anthony Orosco

First thing I do on prep for my clients new cars is remove plastic film, look the car over for any damage, inside and out, check wheels, tires and glass also.

Then it's on to the wash and then clay. I would highly recommend you clay the paint and there should be no reason for you to fear this step. You're just going to glide a piece of auto clay across your wet paint a few times and that's it.

You can find detailed instructions on claying in this forum doing a search.

After the wash alcohol can be used to remove your tape lines using a soft microfiber towel.

Then comes the polish and wax using your favorite product.

As for a detailer......get me a plane ticket

Congrats on the new Porsche!!

Anthony

ezinternet

Thanks for the encouragement Anthony. I've enjoyed your posts here.

Seems I need to replace a shelf full of last-generation products with a bunch of next generation ones.

Based on what I've seen of your work I suspect there's a line of people who would get you a plane ticket. Nice time to visit too. It's cooler by the Lake :-)

awahl63

It was great talking to you today Ezra. I hope I was able to set you on the right path.

MoeMistry

Congrats ez on the new 997 C4S. You shouldn't be intimidated by detailing; it's suppose to be an enjoyable experience. Keep it simple. I'm sure you, or the dealer, has already removed the plastic film. Wash the finish down using a high quality soap from Einszette, Zymol, P21S, or Optimum. You SHOULD clay and to be safe use the Sonus Extra Fine Clay; it's VERY gentle and will do the job safely. Then dry the car using a waffle weave foam core microfiber drying cloth or a filtered forced air blower. You're now ready to polish and wax. I'd recommend either the p21S paint cleaner, Zymol HD-Cleanse, Optimum PolySeal, or Einszette paint polish. Your last step is wax and I personally like the "look" of carnauba because it's more warm and subtle. Depending on how you care for the finish, you can expect carnaubas to last from 1 month to 12 months depending on quality. Your good options here are P21s or Zymol for carnauba. Einszette or Optimum for a synthetic. Hope this helps a little. Don't be overwhelmed and post your questions here.

MoeMistry

Oh I forgot.....Steve Neumayer from ProDetail is a great detailer in the Chicago area. Not sure how close that is to you. www.prodetailchicago.com

TOGWT

I hope this helps if you decide to DIY if it intimidates send Anthony a plane ticket

New vehicle, Initial Care:
Most people believe that a new car needs little if any care for the first week or so, not true. Most new vehicles leave the factory, they sit in dirt parking lots, they are transported by trains, trucks, or ships, and then they are generally subjected to the removal of transit plastic protection wrap and usually harsh washing conditions once they arrive at the car dealership.

Even new cars that have been setting on a car dealerships lot for a few weeks can accumulate surface contamination; don't assume a vehicle that looks good is contamination free Acid rain, road salt; tree sap and airborne contaminants are very detrimental to a vehicles paint film surface. Brake dust or rail dust are very small, almost microscopic particles of steel, iron or their alloys.

These particles carry a negative charge while the vehicles they land on are carrying a positive charge. The vehicle surface becomes a magnet, attracting and bonding the ferrous metal particles to the vehicle surface, once you add water (dew, rain, humidity, etc) any of the microscopic particles of steel, iron that have compromised the paint surface will cause rust contamination

1. RapGard (Plastic Transit Film):
Many manufacturers are using this white plastic covering in place of synthetic or wax based shipping coatings. Plastic becomes brittle with age (90 to 180 days) and becomes difficult to remove as it "shreds" while being pulled off, additionally there maybe excess adhesive residue left on the surface.
Spray Valugard’s New Car Prep onto the Rapgard, allow to dwell for three or four minutes. Remove NCP residue with a 100% cotton towel (DFTowel) The Rapguard should now gently peel off, pull away from body at a 45 degree angle using an even pressure, you may find that it shreds. Spray the uncovered paint surface with New Car Prep to remove any adhesive residue htpp://www.autoint.com

Wash vehicle with a car wash concentrate diluted 1 oz. per gallon of water any remove any ‘solid’ adhesive residue with detailers clay. The product they use is either Cosmoline or a blend of paraffin and a synthetic wax, but it’s mainly paraffin that is used to protect new cars during shipment. They are sprayed on most engine and exterior finishes to provide a barrier to the elements. (zymöl Strik™ Cosmoline Remover and Engine Cleaner ) will remove it-

Product specific - Zymol http://fp.zymol.com/strik2.htm) or AutoBody Prep (http://www.autoint.com)

2. Cleaning Tyres:
•Rinse thoroughly with a fairly strong stream of clean water to remove any loose road dirt etc., from tyre’s and wheel wells.
•Clean tyres with a rubber cleaner (3M Tire & Wheel Cleaner -39036) or a citrus-based APC (P21S Total Auto Wash)
•Use a water-based polymer tyre dressing (Zaino Z-16 Perfect Tire Gloss™)
•Apply a (UVR) protection to the tyres.

3. Detailers Clay:
Even new cars that have been setting on a car dealerships lot for a few weeks can accumulate surface contamination; don't assume a vehicle that looks good is contamination free
•Divide the Detailer's Clay into equal pieces and knead into a ball to ensure pliability
•Take one of the pieces and flatten it out into a circle, approximately enough that it will fit into two or three fingers
•Spray a 2-foot by 2-foot surface with a 5:1 lubricating solution (Distilled water / WooliteTM or Dreft™ ensure that the surface being clayed is always wet
•Glide the Clay across the area in a front to back in a straight-line aquaplaning type motion
•Use long strokes without lifting the clay from the surface
•Use a light to medium even pressure until the surface becomes smooth and silent.
•If the Clay is streaking on the paint, you need more to apply more lubricating solution, it is better to over lubricate the paint film surface than let it dry-out

4. Vinyl and hard plastic surfaces:
•Apply any dressings very sparingly as these surfaces don’t allow the dressings to penetrate very well
•Use a suitable matte type dressing (Iz Cockpit Premium) to ensure that there is no reflection on the windshield, reducing visibility.
•Apply a UVR protection (303 Space Protectant) especially to the dash and any other surface that is subjected to sunlight on a regular basis.

5. Surface Protection:
Regularly applied wax and/or a polymer sealant will both protect the paint surface from surface contamination that collects on a painted finish which includes, Industrial fallout (IFO), Rail Dust, Acid Rain, Hard Water Spots, Tar, Bird Droppings, Waxes/Silicones, Oxidation, Adhesive Residue, Road Grime Rust Stains. I would seriously consider the purchase of a clear automotive protective coating (a.k.a.Clear Bra)

6. Car Cover:
The greatest treats to the preservation of your vehicle are; Airborne Contaminants, Industrial Fallout (this includes Acid Rain) Ultra Violet Radiation (UVR) Oxidation, Bird Excrement and Brake Dust, wind blown debris and pollution. Protect your investment with a car cover, outdoors, car covers offer unequalled protection against ultra-violet radiation (UVR) they are water resistant and provide protection from acid rain, pollution, bird excrement, tree sap and wind blown debris.

When all is said and done stand back have a beer and enjoy the new vehicle...

perfectlap

Try washing the car with Optimum No Rinse. I'd be interested to see what a car that was never tunnel or bucket and hose washed would look like. I suspect it would have drastically fewers swirls over its life time.
I have a soft top so I do have to use a high pressure hose frequently but I've not used it on the paint since April. A bucket of warm water, sea sponge and No Rinse is all I need for 15 minute wash that comes out as good as the bucket and hose wash but in what I feel is a much less invasive routine.
A good acrylic wax (I use 1000P) and my usual anti-static spray FK1 425 immediatley after the wash cuts down the cleaning and preserves the reflection. When it comes time to do the seasonal polish I use Werkstatt Prime Strong, best result i have seen on silver from just a polish. I think it can stand alone without sealants and toppers just on the strength of the polish's shine.

ezinternet

Thanks, everyone, for all the advice. I take full responsibility for my results.

The residue from the plastic transit film seems to have remained on the car in two intensities. Neither yielded to isopropyl alcohol. I didn't clay it because I couldn't score the correct product in the timeframe in which I had to work on the car.

Along the sides of the car, doors and rear quarters, there was just a hairline straightline of glue residue. It gave up the ghost to a gentle microfiber soaked with 3M adhesive remover. On the roof there was apparently a piece of plastic that sealed around the sunroof. It left a 1" wide stripe across the roof. In removing this larger concentration I used a bit more of the 3M, and more pressure, and it did remove the residue. Unfortunately, I think it may have smoked the clear-coat a bit. (So much for the "safe for clear-coat on the 3M label )

"awahl63" let me know that he was going to be out my way and was good enough to offer to stop by today so I'll get his opinion on what I'm seeing.

I'll post pictures once she looks as good as all of your cars!

Thanks!

awahl63

Post the pictures EZ

ezinternet

She looks good! Here are some shots of the new car, newly detailed, as clean, no - dare I say more clean and more shiny, than the day she rolled off the line in Zuffenhausen. The factory paint job is pretty-much flawless.

I learned that 3M Adhesive Remover does not eat the clearcoat - it just leaves smears of dissolved adhesive residue. Very comforting to know. Clay really does safely remove adhesive residue. I'll follow all of the advice above and start doing the clay-thing on all my vehicles.

Thanks to awahl63 for stopping to help and then stooping to detail. If you like the results the credit is his.

awahl63

Here are all the pictures I have right now























Looks good EZ

awahl63

*Update 4 more pictures added*

RickBetterley

That is a very handsome car; nice choice!

perfectlap

wow the Turbo wheels make all the difference in the world...good choice. Had to look for the side vents to see if it wasn't the 997TT.

I might suggest a silver hood crest. I think bumperplugs sells them. Maybe a nicer contrast than gold.
Whatever car looks like a million bucks.