pongobaz

Based on the discussions on this forum, I decide to forgo NXT and go with the Optimum poli seal. I haven't put any NXT on it since November and the car has been washed weekly. I just spent a few hours detailing the interior and inspection the exterior and the paint is in excellent condition with no spider webbing or swirls. My question is, do I still need to strip it off with Dawn or is it pretty much gone by now?
These are the steps I'm planning:
1-wash and dry
2-clay bar
3-wash & dry again
4-poli seal using PC (white or black pad?)
5-P21S using PC (black pad)

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

elbeee964

Do you need a pad prep (eg, say, Pinnacle Polishing Pad Conditioner ), or just throw the Poly-Seal onto the (white) pad dry?

And the same question for an orange pad and Optimum Polish...

I'm dealing with a red '93 911 w/ a moderate amount of front end road rash that I've recently brought back to health by touching up, Uni-Grit stoned, and Meguires Scratch X'ing the obvious nicks... things are nice and awaiting a clear bra... but the detail comes 1st.

Thoughts?

uzj100

Optimum Polish and Optimum Compound are both pretty "moist", user friendly and have long working times. You don't really need to "prime" the pads as you might with something like Menzerna polishes. At least that's been my experience. With the Optimum products I just put a blob about the size of a quarter in the center for the first passes with a clean pad, then add slightly less for subsequent passes. And even with an orange pad the OC is pretty mild, so don't be afraid to give it a try if you don't think the polish is working for you.

HTH

ehall

See above. You don't need to use a different priming substance. I would apply Ps21 by hand.

ekeeton

+1 what they both just said. I've started using Optimum products lately and they're very easy to work with. Poli-seal works according to the pad you use. Use orange or yellow and you'll get fairly good polishing action. Less "aggressive" pads will yield a milder polishing result.

The hardest part for me to get used to is seeing where it's going! All in all a great product.

elbeee964

Is that because you're working on white paint? (That's the most obvious 'no-dah!' answer I could figure.)

Besides that, thanks all!
Your words have stoked my desire to make shiny that which ain't yet.

Anthony Orosco

So far great advice given by all and I will second on the comment about PoliSeal buffing nearly invisible. Many people are used to seeing the product as they buff but PoliSeal buffs clear and while you can't see it it's there doing its job.

The mistake made by many is to then add MORE PoliSeal which can cause an oily residue left behind.

Anthony

IcemanG17

Everyone is right on.......I just did some work to my parked outside, neglected 02 Saturn.....it gets caked with bugs, rarely washed....has multiple bird droppings that sit FOREVER.......

So I washed it...claybar.....Optimum Polish with Griots Orange pad with Portercable set to 6......then followed by Poli-seal with the griots red pad at 3....... Then Opti spray wax by hand with microfiber.....

It turned out GREAT.....it did not remove the really bad bug stains or bird marks...but those literally cut the clearcoat.....so they will never come out....but it looks much better than it did!!

BuddyK

Is it essential to do the clay bar before you use the Porter Cable machine with Optimum Compound and an "orange" "Lakes" brand pad?


I'll be doing the same thing on my silver C4 now that winter is almost over here, I have never used the Porter Cable machine before, so I'd like to know if I need to do the clay bar before I use the PC machine.

Anthony Orosco

It won't hurt to clay it and most likely should be done if your detailing it for the first time.

Anthony

pongobaz

Anthony,
So for poli-seal, should I use a white or orange pad after claying? I plan on layering some P21S as a final step.

IcemanG17

It will work with either...it just depends on how much "polishing" you want it to do.....if the paint is already pretty good...or you polished it before poli-seal, then go with white.....if the poli seal is being used as a true 1 step...then use the orange.....& save the white for the P21

BuddyK

More Questions about Porter Cable random orbital "PC" machine and Optimum Compound and Polish:

Question #1
While checking Youtube.com I searched for "porter cable" and came up with some videos about using Pinnacle polishes and so forth.

They showed a Porter Cable machine with an orange pad and some polish, and they said you should apply 20 - 25 lbs of pressure as you run the machine on it's course.

I have read somewhere else that you should never apply pressure with the PC machine as it defeats the random orbital part of the machine. So in my reading research I found this contradiction about applying pressure.

In general, does it matter if you apply pressure or not? And then specifically, does it matter with the Optimum Compound or Polish?


OK - another:

Question #2, when you adhere the orange pad to the PC machine with velcro, should the pad be perfectly centered? If it's out a bit it wobbles more, is this bad? Do I have to carefully put the pads on the machine and spin em to check if they are spinning true? It takes me a few tries to get it centered well.

Question #3 Let's say I do a practice run and start with the Optimum Polish, and finish with Opti-Seal. I look at it, and still see some spiderweb and mild scratches. Can I right there and then switch to another orange pad and start all over on this area, starting with Optimum Compound this time, in hopes of being a bit more aggressive? Or will the fresh optiseal treatment prevent me from having the proper effect? ie: will I have to somehow strip the opti-seal off first or will the compound do that on it's own? This one might be a bit of a dumb question, but what the heck.

So far I am having fun with the PC machine, and thanks Anthony for all your posts, I like to read your opinions.

PS - I just tried my new PC machine on my wife's Volvo hood - experimenting with the Optimum compound, and the polish and also Poli-Seal. I had no problems with spatters all over the place - none whatsoever. I have never dared to mess around with power tools on my car's finish - I have waxed my cars, and that's about it. So I have to say that the PC machine and using polishes is great - it's totally new to me, and I can't wait to get to my 1999 Silver C4, but I don't want to destroy my paint job with the fancy machine - so I am still trying to be cautious.

TOGWT

More Questions about Porter Cable random orbital "PC" machine and Optimum Compound and Polish:

Question #1
While checking Youtube.com I searched for "porter cable" and came up with some videos about using Pinnacle polishes and so forth.

They showed a Porter Cable machine with an orange pad and some polish, and they said you should apply 20 - 25 lbs of pressure as you run the machine on it's course.

I have read somewhere else that you should never apply pressure with the PC machine as it defeats the random orbital part of the machine. So in my reading research I found this contradiction about applying pressure.

In general, does it matter if you apply pressure or not? And then specifically, does it matter with the Optimum Compound or Polish?

A1. Machine pressure- apply enough pressure (approx 15 pounds force; 20 pounds force will stall the motor) a foam pads should be compressed approx 50%) so that the pad still oscillates at full speed, but by applying any more the machine begins to stall, and then back off the pressure very slightly

OK - another:

Question #2, when you adhere the orange pad to the PC machine with velcro, should the pad be perfectly centered? If it's out a bit it wobbles more, is this bad? Do I have to carefully put the pads on the machine and spin em to check if they are spinning true? It takes me a few tries to get it centered well.

A2. Symmetrical placement- to centre the foam pad on to the PC backing plate, set it upside down with the Velcro backing plate facing up (this is easier if the side handle is attached). Using the tips of your fingers as spacers against the edges of the backing plate, you can centre it with near perfect results most of the time

When removing the foam pad from the backing plate do not just grab the foam and pull or you may find it separates, hold the Velcro and gently pull the pad to prevent any damage. A 5-ich diameter backing plate when used with a 61/2-inch foam pad allows a ¾ -inch `safety' margin' between the edge of the backing plate and the foam pad. To ensure compatibility of fit with a Porter-Cable the post adaptor should be 5/16inch-24

Question #3 Let's say I do a practice run and start with the Optimum Polish, and finish with Opti-Seal. I look at it, and still see some spiderweb and mild scratches. Can I right there and then switch to another orange pad and start all over on this area, starting with Optimum Compound this time, in hopes of being a bit more aggressive? Or will the fresh optiseal treatment prevent me from having the proper effect? ie: will I have to somehow strip the opti-seal off first or will the compound do that on it's own? This one might be a bit of a dumb question, but what the heck.

A3. With most polishes by changing to a clean pad/more agressive polish it shouldn’t matter.

AnthonyO is the best person to ask on specific Optimum products / methods
http://optimumforums.org/

BuddyK

Thanks for those answers. I really appreciate that. It helped too!

I clayed, and polished the C4 - it's looking much better.

It's really dramatic when the spiderwebs are removed - the silver really "pops" now. I noticed that I could get out 90% of the spiderwebs with an Orange "lake country" pad and Optimum Polish.

I think I'll do it again in June and this time I'll do a round of polishing with the Optimum Compound, now that I am over the intimidation factor of using the PC machine.

The only mistakes I made today, was in making a poor choice of masking tape for the trim - I have to find some stickier masking tape next time to block off the trim. I also dropped my clay bar, and had to throw half of it away, and one of my pads was dropped in the dirt too, but that's about all I did wrong I think.

Now that I have the paint detailed, it points out that there is so much more to be done to get the car back to how it was last summer. The rear lower wheel well has been abraded a bit on the inside edge from gravel and slush shooting up from the rear tires - unavoidable, but kindof nasty how it has abraded the paint there since fall. I looked at the undercarriage, and it looks pretty clean - surprisingly. Still I think I'd like to spray the underside of the car if I can. Driving in snow and gravel and slush all winter gets the car mucked up, so I'm going to have to put in twice the detailing work in spring to cope.

For anyone out there considering doing their own detailing - I would say that the Porter Cable machine is the way to go. Learn to clay your car for sure - very worthwhile. I have never used polishes before, but I'd say that the Optimum stuff does do a very good job. I don't have enough ambition to bother trying to do a comparison to other waxes and polishes - I got a fairly good workout for 5+ hours today, and glad it's out of the way.