Super Hard paint?!?!?!
03-17-2007, 10:31 PM
#1
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Super Hard paint?!?!?!
So I borrowed my friends PC to fix a minor scratch on the wifes Acura....used the Griots orange polishing pad with Optimum polish with the buffer set on 6......took it right out in only two passes.....with checking your work inbetween...
So I felt pretty confident to try some scratches on the 928......use the same orange pad, set to 6 with optimum polish........it pulled quite a bit of paint onto the pad...enough to turn in totally red...BUT it barely corrected any of the scratches.....I would say it looks at best 20% better......I was seriously leaning on that thing & still it can't touch the rock hard single stage paint......
Would a cyclo be better......or maybe the PC with the yellow cutting pads and optimum compound or hypercompound???
Ideas......help!!
So I felt pretty confident to try some scratches on the 928......use the same orange pad, set to 6 with optimum polish........it pulled quite a bit of paint onto the pad...enough to turn in totally red...BUT it barely corrected any of the scratches.....I would say it looks at best 20% better......I was seriously leaning on that thing & still it can't touch the rock hard single stage paint......
Would a cyclo be better......or maybe the PC with the yellow cutting pads and optimum compound or hypercompound???
Ideas......help!!
03-17-2007, 11:14 PM
#2
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Brian,
Nice to see you working with a PC! Be careful how much paint you take off around that scratch. I would take the car to a body shop and have the paint measured to be sure you have enough paint to correct the scratch. If you are definitely sure you have enough I am positive a high speed rotary would correct your paint. Meguiars has a product called Diamond Cut that will definitely do the job, it worked amazingly well on my 92 MB when I was correcting acid etching on the rear trunklid.
Good luck!
Nice to see you working with a PC! Be careful how much paint you take off around that scratch. I would take the car to a body shop and have the paint measured to be sure you have enough paint to correct the scratch. If you are definitely sure you have enough I am positive a high speed rotary would correct your paint. Meguiars has a product called Diamond Cut that will definitely do the job, it worked amazingly well on my 92 MB when I was correcting acid etching on the rear trunklid.
Good luck!
03-18-2007, 02:01 AM
#3
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Afshin
A paint measurement is a good idea....I'll look into that......your lucky you have clear coat....much easier to correct.....the single stage paints are SO hard....granted they hold up well and its easy to correct oxidation using solvent based polishes...BUT scratches and spiderwebbing are so difficult to remove from the rock hard paint....
I do think the PC on 6 with a lake country yellow cutting pad and possibly optimum compound should improve things quite a bit......I'm just stunned that a DEEP ugly scratch on my Acura (clear coat) could be corrected so easily & the exact same procedure on the 928 barely did anything to improve things....or I just need to live with the minor scratches and be happy with the shine otherwise
A paint measurement is a good idea....I'll look into that......your lucky you have clear coat....much easier to correct.....the single stage paints are SO hard....granted they hold up well and its easy to correct oxidation using solvent based polishes...BUT scratches and spiderwebbing are so difficult to remove from the rock hard paint....
I do think the PC on 6 with a lake country yellow cutting pad and possibly optimum compound should improve things quite a bit......I'm just stunned that a DEEP ugly scratch on my Acura (clear coat) could be corrected so easily & the exact same procedure on the 928 barely did anything to improve things....or I just need to live with the minor scratches and be happy with the shine otherwise
03-18-2007, 11:22 AM
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Showoff!! 
Seriously, do a paint measurement before you try removing more paint. Better to be on the safe side.
The clearcoat is a little easier to correct although mine definitely needs more polishing to address some deeper scratches.
I really haven't tried buffing any of our Honda's to see if the paints are softer, I'm guessing they would be as most Japanese car paints are typically softer and less durable
Seriously, do a paint measurement before you try removing more paint. Better to be on the safe side.
The clearcoat is a little easier to correct although mine definitely needs more polishing to address some deeper scratches.
I really haven't tried buffing any of our Honda's to see if the paints are softer, I'm guessing they would be as most Japanese car paints are typically softer and less durable
03-19-2007, 08:01 PM
#5
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The Acura has good paint....it looks SO good after just Optimum spray wax....the deep red with gold metallic is so nice..... Turns out that scratch is still there...but only visable under just the right light at just the right angle...so its far better than it was...
03-20-2007, 02:21 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
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Hmmm, it's been my experience that single stage is easier to correct that many clears.....especially the clears on Porsche Cayennes and Corvettes....but then again I do most of my initial correction with a rotary and then work down to a orbital for finishing.
A general rule is to use a more aggressive pad before moving up the scale in abrasive product. So for your single stage Guards Red try an orange pad with Optimum Polish or Menzerna Intensive Polish you may also want to try a yellow foam pad but don't use any type of wool with your PC, save that for the rotary.
If you want to try Optimum Hyper then try it with a polishing pad first, like Lake Country's white pad or Optimums green pad. If the results are not satisfactory then try going up to an orange and then if needed a yellow pad.
Most of your orbital work will center around multiple passes and concentrating your polishing efforts on a smaller area. This is where Optimum comes in to play as it has the ability to work and work.
So if the orange pad and Hyper do the trick you can then move down to the Optimum polish and a polishing pad or use the orange pad again with the Polish. Last step should be a finishing pad and Optimum polish or Poli-Seal.
Anthony
A general rule is to use a more aggressive pad before moving up the scale in abrasive product. So for your single stage Guards Red try an orange pad with Optimum Polish or Menzerna Intensive Polish you may also want to try a yellow foam pad but don't use any type of wool with your PC, save that for the rotary.
If you want to try Optimum Hyper then try it with a polishing pad first, like Lake Country's white pad or Optimums green pad. If the results are not satisfactory then try going up to an orange and then if needed a yellow pad.
Most of your orbital work will center around multiple passes and concentrating your polishing efforts on a smaller area. This is where Optimum comes in to play as it has the ability to work and work.
So if the orange pad and Hyper do the trick you can then move down to the Optimum polish and a polishing pad or use the orange pad again with the Polish. Last step should be a finishing pad and Optimum polish or Poli-Seal.
Anthony
03-20-2007, 09:29 PM
#7
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I think I will order some CCS pads & optimum compound to use with my buddies PC......since I only have two pads now.....basically a whie pad & an orange (it is orange)....with only optimum polish....
Also what about using Optimum sprax wax on the single stage paint?? Poli seal works really well...but will OSW cause a hazing effect?
Also what about using Optimum sprax wax on the single stage paint?? Poli seal works really well...but will OSW cause a hazing effect?
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03-20-2007, 11:05 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
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OCW is not recommended for single stage paint as it may cause some streaking in the paint.
As you noted Poli-Seal works great with single stage and clear coats.
Anthony
As you noted Poli-Seal works great with single stage and clear coats.
Anthony
03-21-2007, 04:08 AM
#9
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Originally Posted by Anthony Orosco
OCW is not recommended for single stage paint as it may cause some streaking in the paint.
As you noted Poli-Seal works great with single stage and clear coats.
Anthony
As you noted Poli-Seal works great with single stage and clear coats.
Anthony
Thats what I thought.....so it will be polish then poli-seal......
