Detailing A 2000 Red BoxsterS
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Burning Brakes
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Detailing A 2000 Red BoxsterS
This Boxster S came to me in some sad shape. It was really marred but when I saw it it had alot of dirt on it so the marring wasn't that noticable.
Here's what it looked like after it was washed.
The Hood -
Passenger front fender -
This was a 4 step polishing process. 3 Steps by rotary, using a lambswool pad with Optimum Hyper for the cutting stage and a series of foam polishing and finishing pads to finish it out.
The Convertable top was cleaned and then re-treated for water repellancy. The fornt trunk area was detailed as well as the rear trunk area. The Paint was then waxed with Optimum PoliSeal.
I started the detail late yesterday afternoon and finished this morning but today it rained all day Sadly I don't have any AFTER pictures in the sun as I had wanted because the paint turned out beautiful.
So here are a few shots I got between the rain showers.
Interior next
Here's what it looked like after it was washed.
The Hood -
Passenger front fender -
This was a 4 step polishing process. 3 Steps by rotary, using a lambswool pad with Optimum Hyper for the cutting stage and a series of foam polishing and finishing pads to finish it out.
The Convertable top was cleaned and then re-treated for water repellancy. The fornt trunk area was detailed as well as the rear trunk area. The Paint was then waxed with Optimum PoliSeal.
I started the detail late yesterday afternoon and finished this morning but today it rained all day Sadly I don't have any AFTER pictures in the sun as I had wanted because the paint turned out beautiful.
So here are a few shots I got between the rain showers.
Interior next
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Burning Brakes
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These people drive their Boxster with the top down alot! I could tell because of all the dust and grime all over the interior.
The interior was thoroughly vaccumed then steamed and extracted. All leather was cleaned and treated with Leathermaster products.
I hope tomorrow is rain free as the clients are scheduled to pick it up in the AM.
Thanks for looking, hope you enjoyed it and Happy New Year!!
Anthony
The interior was thoroughly vaccumed then steamed and extracted. All leather was cleaned and treated with Leathermaster products.
I hope tomorrow is rain free as the clients are scheduled to pick it up in the AM.
Thanks for looking, hope you enjoyed it and Happy New Year!!
Anthony
#3
Looks like another outstanding job! It is truly amazing to see what you are able to accomplish. Have you totally switched to using the Poliseal instead of the the Optimum Spray wax ?
Do you have any suggestions for cleaning a leather steering wheel?
Do you have any suggestions for cleaning a leather steering wheel?
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Originally Posted by iman11348
Looks like another outstanding job! It is truly amazing to see what you are able to accomplish. Have you totally switched to using the Poliseal instead of the the Optimum Spray wax ?
Do you have any suggestions for cleaning a leather steering wheel?
Do you have any suggestions for cleaning a leather steering wheel?
Hello and Thanks!
I actually used the Optimum spray wax on this car after I brought the car back in from taking pictures as it started raining.
I use the spray wax on about 85% of my details as it's just so easy to use and looks fantastic. I detailed another Porsche (2005 silver 911) rigt after I finished this Boxster and I used the spray wax on it.
As for the leather steering wheel. Leathermaster "Strong Cleaner" and a soft sponge would be my first choice. You want to work the cleaner into a nice foam, apply and clean using the foam and then wipe the grime away. You can also use Woolite (diluted 6:1 with water). A soft toothbrush will come in handy for this job.
Anthony
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Anthony:
I saw your post over on the 928 forum about steamer use. Nice. My question is about polish. If you saw a mid-80s 928 that was like the Boxter above, what would you use? I ask because, during the 80s, Porsche used baked enamel, I believe, and it is hard as rocks - far harder than modern paints. Everything I've tried on my 89 short of sandpaper seems to have no effect on same type of marring as this Boxter appears to have.
I saw your post over on the 928 forum about steamer use. Nice. My question is about polish. If you saw a mid-80s 928 that was like the Boxter above, what would you use? I ask because, during the 80s, Porsche used baked enamel, I believe, and it is hard as rocks - far harder than modern paints. Everything I've tried on my 89 short of sandpaper seems to have no effect on same type of marring as this Boxter appears to have.
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#9
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Originally Posted by Bill Ball
Anthony:
I saw your post over on the 928 forum about steamer use. Nice. My question is about polish. If you saw a mid-80s 928 that was like the Boxter above, what would you use? I ask because, during the 80s, Porsche used baked enamel, I believe, and it is hard as rocks - far harder than modern paints. Everything I've tried on my 89 short of sandpaper seems to have no effect on same type of marring as this Boxter appears to have.
I saw your post over on the 928 forum about steamer use. Nice. My question is about polish. If you saw a mid-80s 928 that was like the Boxter above, what would you use? I ask because, during the 80s, Porsche used baked enamel, I believe, and it is hard as rocks - far harder than modern paints. Everything I've tried on my 89 short of sandpaper seems to have no effect on same type of marring as this Boxter appears to have.
I was thinking the exact same thing as Bill!!! ????? I just don't think an random orbit will work & since you used a rotary with hyper compound.....to fix the boxster & that was on a clear coat car too?
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Hey guys,
First. thanks for the compliments and secondly in regards to single stage paint....you're most likely going to need the extra heat and friction from a high speed rotary to really get the paint looking like glass.
A PC can do some good work, a Cyclo can do better but a rotary is like night and day.
Do you have a polisher or are you trying to do this polish work all by hand? Single stage paints are fairly easy to correct BUT without seeing the paint myself I can't really tell what is correctable and what is beyond correction.
Perhaps post up some pictures, is that possible?
I need to go out for a few but I'll be back and reply to the steamer thread with some more info.
Anthony
First. thanks for the compliments and secondly in regards to single stage paint....you're most likely going to need the extra heat and friction from a high speed rotary to really get the paint looking like glass.
A PC can do some good work, a Cyclo can do better but a rotary is like night and day.
Do you have a polisher or are you trying to do this polish work all by hand? Single stage paints are fairly easy to correct BUT without seeing the paint myself I can't really tell what is correctable and what is beyond correction.
Perhaps post up some pictures, is that possible?
I need to go out for a few but I'll be back and reply to the steamer thread with some more info.
Anthony
#11
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Anthony
Bill has a PC & uses 3M Finesse it II with Rejex for wax, but it really doesn't seem to make much of a difference....I have a GEM 14lb....& have tried a few different things, but still can't get the micro spiderwebbing out.....under the right light my car has the same marks as the boxster above (well maybe a little better).....I'm still leaning towards a makita 9227C with edge waffle pads set at 600rpms to start correcting things?
I plan on trying optimum products (I just got polish-poliseal & wax)....I will try my GEM with terry bonnets & polish.....then poliseal (with microfiber bonnets)....then spray wax & see if that makes it better?
Do you think it will work?
Bill has a PC & uses 3M Finesse it II with Rejex for wax, but it really doesn't seem to make much of a difference....I have a GEM 14lb....& have tried a few different things, but still can't get the micro spiderwebbing out.....under the right light my car has the same marks as the boxster above (well maybe a little better).....I'm still leaning towards a makita 9227C with edge waffle pads set at 600rpms to start correcting things?
I plan on trying optimum products (I just got polish-poliseal & wax)....I will try my GEM with terry bonnets & polish.....then poliseal (with microfiber bonnets)....then spray wax & see if that makes it better?
Do you think it will work?
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Originally Posted by IcemanG17
Anthony
Bill has a PC & uses 3M Finesse it II with Rejex for wax, but it really doesn't seem to make much of a difference....I have a GEM 14lb....& have tried a few different things, but still can't get the micro spiderwebbing out.....under the right light my car has the same marks as the boxster above (well maybe a little better).....I'm still leaning towards a makita 9227C with edge waffle pads set at 600rpms to start correcting things?
I plan on trying optimum products (I just got polish-poliseal & wax)....I will try my GEM with terry bonnets & polish.....then poliseal (with microfiber bonnets)....then spray wax & see if that makes it better?
Do you think it will work?
Bill has a PC & uses 3M Finesse it II with Rejex for wax, but it really doesn't seem to make much of a difference....I have a GEM 14lb....& have tried a few different things, but still can't get the micro spiderwebbing out.....under the right light my car has the same marks as the boxster above (well maybe a little better).....I'm still leaning towards a makita 9227C with edge waffle pads set at 600rpms to start correcting things?
I plan on trying optimum products (I just got polish-poliseal & wax)....I will try my GEM with terry bonnets & polish.....then poliseal (with microfiber bonnets)....then spray wax & see if that makes it better?
Do you think it will work?
My vote on the GEM would be "No" That thing is a back breaker!! I owned several of them and while they are a workhorse they are not really very Porsche friendly....they are more suited to work on a B-52 Bomber!
They just don't have or generate enough heat and friction to properly level paint, nor does the PC for that matter...although it's a far better choice over the GEM. I'll try to explain as best as I can what is happening......or what needs to happen to correct paint.
When a detailer uses the term "Leveling paint" he or she means that they are going to be abrading away the layer of paint that contains the defect, whether it be a scratch, swirls, etching, pitting, etc. In other words when a detailer says...."Yea I can remove the scratch" what they are really doing is removing or "leveling" the paint down to where the scratch is. The scratch itself is not being removed, in fact it stays there, the surrounding paint though is removed.
This is accomplished through heat and friction, an abrasive pad and an abrasive polishing product. Years ago with single stage enamels and such this was an all day event as wool was the only option (blended wools and lambswool). Today though we have some cool stuff to use, new clear coat safe abrasives, hi-tech foam and better machines but we also have thinner paints applied to carbon fiber, aluminum, fiberglass and thin sheet metal.
Modern day clear coats are basically thin plastic films and if one produces too much heat on the surface the paint will expand and the scratches will sink down into the clear. So paint leveling is not as easy as just getting out a rotary, smear on some polish and have at it. It's an art and a science.
So I can already tell you that the GEM won't do anything for paint correct so the Makita may be your best choice. I would recommend Lake Country pads over the Edge pads though, just better pad construction IMHO. The Lake Country white polishing pad and Optimum polishes are a great combo that I use on all my Porsche details. Now I don't want to scare anyone from using a rotary, just that they use caution and get in some practice on spare door or hood panels before they attack their cherished Porsche
The Optimum line is very nice in that the lubricating oils within them create a buffing barrier so it helps them ti run cooler. You may find that 600 rpm's is too slow....try more like 900 or 1000 rpm's to start with and a finishing pad.
I'll do my best to answer any questions you may have,
Anthony
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Anthony:
Thank you for all the advice. I can shoot some pictures in the sun tomorrow. The paint on my 89 is still in remarkably good shape. Overall it shines very nicely. Same with Brian's car. It's just the accumulation of fine spiderwebbing that I cannot get out. On other cars my PC random orbital and 3M Finesse-it II would do the job. You know, this is an old school, very mild finishing polish that I have used for maybe 20 years with excellent results. However, it just won't touch this enamel.
Thanks again. Photos coming.
Thank you for all the advice. I can shoot some pictures in the sun tomorrow. The paint on my 89 is still in remarkably good shape. Overall it shines very nicely. Same with Brian's car. It's just the accumulation of fine spiderwebbing that I cannot get out. On other cars my PC random orbital and 3M Finesse-it II would do the job. You know, this is an old school, very mild finishing polish that I have used for maybe 20 years with excellent results. However, it just won't touch this enamel.
Thanks again. Photos coming.
#15
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Anthony
Thanks for the detailed answer! I got my optimum products today and used them on my wifes acura with great results....& that was just by hand fixing a couple minor swirls-scratches...I posted a topic about the results......I am VERY happy so far......
It was very easy (by hand) to correct a minor swirl in the acura with optimum polish followed by poli seal then wax......so easy that I am tempted to try the GEM on the 928 anyway.......it can't be any worse than the products I have been using.....I'm sure it will look better than it does now......but still won't be perfect.....
Bill
We should try the optimum polish with your PC one day......couldn't hurt? I'll order the makita soon!
Thanks for the detailed answer! I got my optimum products today and used them on my wifes acura with great results....& that was just by hand fixing a couple minor swirls-scratches...I posted a topic about the results......I am VERY happy so far......
It was very easy (by hand) to correct a minor swirl in the acura with optimum polish followed by poli seal then wax......so easy that I am tempted to try the GEM on the 928 anyway.......it can't be any worse than the products I have been using.....I'm sure it will look better than it does now......but still won't be perfect.....
Bill
We should try the optimum polish with your PC one day......couldn't hurt? I'll order the makita soon!