To clay or not to clay?
05-31-2006, 04:21 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
To clay or not to clay?
Hi,
I've had my 993 for about 2 years. Its a black 96 coupe and its paint is in need of a good detail. At this point there's no visible oxidation but I do see a fair amount of spidering from the PO. I use only very non-abrasive chamois, lambs wool mit or a soft cotton towel for minor detail/touch ups with the McGuire's cleaner.
I'd like to properly prep my paint to put multiple layers of wax or Rejex on the car and I feel that before I wax it (only have used the McGuire's Gold thus far) I want to do all I can to prep the paint.
How do you tell if the car needs to be clayed in the first place and can someone direct me to a link to help determine where to get the right product and step by step instructions? I know its in the archives somewhere but I don't even know where to begin. Thanks in advance!
I've had my 993 for about 2 years. Its a black 96 coupe and its paint is in need of a good detail. At this point there's no visible oxidation but I do see a fair amount of spidering from the PO. I use only very non-abrasive chamois, lambs wool mit or a soft cotton towel for minor detail/touch ups with the McGuire's cleaner.
I'd like to properly prep my paint to put multiple layers of wax or Rejex on the car and I feel that before I wax it (only have used the McGuire's Gold thus far) I want to do all I can to prep the paint.
How do you tell if the car needs to be clayed in the first place and can someone direct me to a link to help determine where to get the right product and step by step instructions? I know its in the archives somewhere but I don't even know where to begin. Thanks in advance!
05-31-2006, 05:59 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
After washing the car run your hands over it. If the paint is not slick and smooth then you have pollution, debris, etc in the paint. Clay will remove these. www.autogeek.com has a great clay kit that comes with a nice hand held tool, clay, and lubricant making it a pretty easy process. After claying the car the paint should be smooth, and slick. At that point you can polcish, seal, wax.
05-31-2006, 06:22 PM
#3
Nordschleife Master
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Better yet, instead of just running your hand over your paint (which, most likely you won't feel anything), get a piece of plastic wrap (from your kitchen), wrap it around you fingers, and glide it over your paint. NOW, you will feel the contaminants, which will be removed by claying.
And, to answer your question, definitely you should clay your car.
Here is a link:
http://www.guidetodetailing.com/arti...p?articleId=14
And, to answer your question, definitely you should clay your car.
Here is a link:
http://www.guidetodetailing.com/arti...p?articleId=14
05-31-2006, 09:30 PM
#4
I kept resisting claying for years until last month. I thought it would scratch my perfect finish and not be a value add. However, I wanted to shine my car to the highest level for upcoming concours. I decided to buy Griot's clay (which is not aggressive), their Speedshine, along with p21 polish and wax. Of course there are many great premium products, so that is everyone personal choice.
I am now a believer in clay. It is easy to use once you spray enough Speedshine or soap and water and keep the clay clean and keep kneading it. My surface now is very smooth, and car has not shined any better. However, I first did by daily driver before doing the 911.
I am now a believer in clay. It is easy to use once you spray enough Speedshine or soap and water and keep the clay clean and keep kneading it. My surface now is very smooth, and car has not shined any better. However, I first did by daily driver before doing the 911.
06-01-2006, 09:32 AM
#6
2ndof2,
As probably aware before using clay you need to remove all old wax. I used Griot's Paint prep. Of course other products are available and work well. Personally, I did not feel comfortable using Dawn as it was not designed for car finishes.
As probably aware before using clay you need to remove all old wax. I used Griot's Paint prep. Of course other products are available and work well. Personally, I did not feel comfortable using Dawn as it was not designed for car finishes.
06-01-2006, 11:50 AM
#7
Burning Brakes
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Let's try and clear up some confusion.
First, clay IS abrasive. It contains abrasive materials which are imbedded into the clay material. This is how it does what it does. Some particles it removes, like sap and overspray and other materials it shaves off, like rail dust. To completely remove rail dust one must use an acid wash that opens the paint up which allows the iron ferrous materials to be flushed out. Ever notice rust marks on a white car? Well those are "rust blooms" from rail dust imbedded in the cars paint.
Second, you do NOT need to remove wax prior to claying as the clay will remove the wax.
Third, you do NOT need to buy or use detailing spray with clay. That's such a waste of product and money. Instead use soap and water as the lubricant. Just squeeze out a few drops of car shampoo into a squirt bottle filled with 32oz of water. Wash your car as normal and rinse it and dry it. Now doing one panel or area at a time spray it with your soap solution and then clay that area in a back and forth manner until you feel the clay moving without any hesitation.....usually 5 or 6 passes should do it.
Lastly, your 96 "should" be cleared meaning it will not "oxidize" in the traditional sense, like a single stage paint. Clay will NOT remove oxidation.
Anthony
First, clay IS abrasive. It contains abrasive materials which are imbedded into the clay material. This is how it does what it does. Some particles it removes, like sap and overspray and other materials it shaves off, like rail dust. To completely remove rail dust one must use an acid wash that opens the paint up which allows the iron ferrous materials to be flushed out. Ever notice rust marks on a white car? Well those are "rust blooms" from rail dust imbedded in the cars paint.
Second, you do NOT need to remove wax prior to claying as the clay will remove the wax.
Third, you do NOT need to buy or use detailing spray with clay. That's such a waste of product and money. Instead use soap and water as the lubricant. Just squeeze out a few drops of car shampoo into a squirt bottle filled with 32oz of water. Wash your car as normal and rinse it and dry it. Now doing one panel or area at a time spray it with your soap solution and then clay that area in a back and forth manner until you feel the clay moving without any hesitation.....usually 5 or 6 passes should do it.
Lastly, your 96 "should" be cleared meaning it will not "oxidize" in the traditional sense, like a single stage paint. Clay will NOT remove oxidation.
Anthony
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06-01-2006, 06:29 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Anthony Orosco
Let's try and clear up some confusion.
Second, you do NOT need to remove wax prior to claying as the clay will remove the wax.
Anthony
Second, you do NOT need to remove wax prior to claying as the clay will remove the wax.
Anthony
Thanks as usual for your expertise as you are in the trenches everyday and have more experience than me.
I thought clay does not remove all wax, especially if switching from a silicone wax to a pure wax. Also by removing all the wax with specific wax remover, it provides actual sense of paint condition showing the depth of swirls/scratches to enable level of polishing required. Lastly, doesn't the clay bar accommulate wax and that would get spread to other parts of the car. Even if rinse and keep kneading the clay.
TIA.
06-01-2006, 06:44 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
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Very welcome and thank you also.
In reality we have no way to measure the amount of wax or sealer upon a cars surface so whether the clay removes it all or just some is next to impossible to tell. Clean paint, as well as waxed paint both bead water so going by beads alone won't work. If you go by how the paint feels then there also we have a problem because waxed paint and clayed paint feel almost the same....with a freshly waxed surface getting an edge.
The general theory is that since clay is abrasive and removes surface contaminates it will also either remove or greatly reduce any wax on it also. Even if it didn't remove all the wax the next step of paint polishing surely would.
Wax also has a very limited ability as far as filling and hiding goes. Glazes, such as 3M Imperial hand glaze do hide and fill and they can give false impression of the true paint condition but a wipe down with 50/50 alcohol will remove that.
Hope that helps,
Anthony
In reality we have no way to measure the amount of wax or sealer upon a cars surface so whether the clay removes it all or just some is next to impossible to tell. Clean paint, as well as waxed paint both bead water so going by beads alone won't work. If you go by how the paint feels then there also we have a problem because waxed paint and clayed paint feel almost the same....with a freshly waxed surface getting an edge.
The general theory is that since clay is abrasive and removes surface contaminates it will also either remove or greatly reduce any wax on it also. Even if it didn't remove all the wax the next step of paint polishing surely would.
Wax also has a very limited ability as far as filling and hiding goes. Glazes, such as 3M Imperial hand glaze do hide and fill and they can give false impression of the true paint condition but a wipe down with 50/50 alcohol will remove that.
Hope that helps,
Anthony
06-02-2006, 07:35 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
Clay is the most incredible car care product out there period. It has been around for thirty years but used primarily by body shops. Now that it has made it into the mainstream, it's benefits are well known and easy to see once used. I maintain four different types of clay, each providing a different level of scrubbing ability. Love my clay.