blitz951

I dont know how but it seems my car has very fine scratches all over it. The paint is excellent but it seems that just by washing and drying the car by hand it now has fine scratches throughout. I was the car with a small amount of soap after hosing it down and dry it with a cloth towel.
How do I remove the scratches?

cab&coupe

Try 3M impoerial hand glaze... what color are you working with?

Anthony Orosco

3M IHG is a nice product but it won't "remove" anything, especially scratches. It is designed to "hide" them temporarily.

You need a mild polish, like Menzerna Intensive Polish (Don't let the name scare you, it's everything but "Intensive") or Optimum Polish. These products are designed to level down small imperfections and fine marring caused by washing and drying. They are best applied with a polisher.

Using a cotton towel could be the cause of some of the marring in your paint, especially if it has polyester stitching. Look on the web for some large waffle weave microfiber towels and use a deep sea sponge when washing and for help in drying an electric leaf blower.

So wash the car, rinse it and then use the leaf blower to dry the car off as best you can then use your microfiber towels and some quick detail spray to dry the remaining water off.

Have any questions let me know,
Anthony

cab&coupe

Anthony, in your experience... what are the best exterior products (wax, shampoo, detail spray, etc.) to use on Guards Red (993) and Grand Prix White (3.2 Carrera) to produce the best results.

blitz951

The color is Guards Red and thanks for the info. Does anyone know of a good detailer in Long Island or whitestone area of NY?

mhm993

matt zakarian at detailing dynamics does wonderful work.. (no relation, etc).

Anthony Orosco

Two product lines come to mind. Menzerna and Optimum. If going with Menzerna I would get both Intensive POlish and Final Plish II. I would not go with their sealant called FMJ.

If using Optimum then Optimum Polish should be all you'll need...maybe Optimum Compound also. I prefer a paste wax over the Optimum spray wax on single stage paints. On clear coats Optimum spray wax works great.

For single stage paints, like early model Guards Red Porsches, I prefer a paste wax called Trade Secret. Every bit as good as P21S or Pinnacle Sovereign.

Your results all depend on prep work. If you get the paint to the point where there are little to no scratches reflecting light then you are 99% complete. Your wax choice is then basically just a barrier between your polished paint and the elements.

Anthony

tgibson1

Anthony, what is your basic objection against FMJ, it lasts such a long time?

Anthony Orosco

Yes it's very nice but my point is that I don't care for it on "single stage" paint. I have had in the past smearing issues with polymers on single stage.

On clear coats it's very nice

Anthony

tgibson1

Thanks for the reply and all the other help you give us Anthony.

IcemanG17

Anthony
Could you elaborate on the polymers smearing single stage paint (mine is guards red).....I've noticed a very slight "hazing" under just the right light (say a overcast day, partially in the shade)....but its not noticeable in the sun?

Anthony Orosco

Hello... I'm sorry about this late reply. Been rather busy and left with little time to post and reply to Emails.

What you describe is what I also see many times when working with a polymer and single stage paint. I have found that carnauba paste wax works best on SS paints.

Many guys with garage queens that are SS only use products like Megiuars #7 but I have found this method to be far too oily and troublesome also. I handle most of my SS cars with as few products as possible. After polishing off the oxidation I apply no glaze or polymers but a very mild paint cleanser (to remove any top oils from polishing) and then hand apply a high quality paste wax.

Anthony

IcemanG17

Anthony
This makes sense to me.....I've had good results using a non abrasive chemical oxidation remover (basically a mild polish) to remove the dead paint....then follow it with a sealant with a touch of cleaner (super hard finish that lasts a long time)....then follow that (after curing) with Rejex for a super slick long lasting shine.....HOWEVER.....if you catch it in just the right light....it does have a slight haze to it....BUT in 99% of light it looks great!!

I think the polish followed with a paste carnuba (trade secret) would probably be the best.....but wouldn't last as long... Maybe after I get a cyclo!!

Anthony Orosco

Brian, to extend the wax use Hi-Temps quick detailer. It's an EXCELLENT quick detailer for a fraction cost wise of what others charge.

http://www.topoftheline.com/spray-wax-shine.html Get it in the gallon..it's under $20.00

If you are a fanatic about a clean car then use Optimum's No Rinse. You can wash your car every 2 or 3 days in about 15 minutes and because it has a polymer in it it will "bond" to your paint and in turn make it glossier and easier to clean.

I use it on my work truck every few days and it's now so easy to clean and maintain.

Anthony

SilverSteel

HG has no abrassives to remove fine scratches. You need an orbital like Porter Cable to get them out. Griots has some polish that is rated 1,2 or 3 depending on the depth of the scratch. Start out with the most abrassive and work you way down to the least and your scratch will be gone. See their site: www.griotsgarage.com

also, you may want to review your washing and drying techniques. Change your water, use only washed mitts, use only micro towels with silk or satin ends (some contain fishing type line to hold them together that can scratch you finish). Also, never wipe you car with anything when it rains, rinse it down and wash it.