Very fine scratch
#1
Very fine scratch
Anthony
Just noticed a very fine but noticeable horizontal scratch on the vertical portion of left front fender. I believe some clear lacquer that came with touch up paint will do the job, but wanted to check before I attempt repair. Although I can feel scratch w/ my fingernail, I am leery that the lacquer will no adhere well. Thoughts, suggestions, materials, and method are much appreciated.
I tried it with touch-up paint. I let it sit several hour, but the paint just came off when polishing. Help..Please
I found this link http://www.guidetodetailing.com/art...hp?articleId=27
I guess you really have to rough up the existing area. What do you think?
Thanks
Tad
Just noticed a very fine but noticeable horizontal scratch on the vertical portion of left front fender. I believe some clear lacquer that came with touch up paint will do the job, but wanted to check before I attempt repair. Although I can feel scratch w/ my fingernail, I am leery that the lacquer will no adhere well. Thoughts, suggestions, materials, and method are much appreciated.
I tried it with touch-up paint. I let it sit several hour, but the paint just came off when polishing. Help..Please
I found this link http://www.guidetodetailing.com/art...hp?articleId=27
I guess you really have to rough up the existing area. What do you think?
Thanks
Tad
Last edited by tgibson1; 05-08-2006 at 06:13 PM.
#2
Hey,
Thanks for your patience with this, much appreciated.
Are you able to post up a picture of the scratch in question? That would help a great deal. If not let me know also and I'll try my best to describe a remedy.
Anthony
Thanks for your patience with this, much appreciated.
Are you able to post up a picture of the scratch in question? That would help a great deal. If not let me know also and I'll try my best to describe a remedy.
Anthony
#3
I doubt the scratch would show up on a picture. The scratch is 4" hair thin but deep enough to just feel with nail. There is a slight chip in center of scratch which drew my attention to it. The chip is what I tried to fix, but the paint came off during polish: nothing to hold onto I guess.
#5
Have you ever done any wetsanding?
The reason I ask is because you can fill the scratch in with some clear touch up paint and then wetsand it and then polish and wax.
What I recommend though for touch up paint is the auto Touch-Up Pen. It is a felt tipped pen that actually matches your Porsche color and is super easy to use. You can go here to get one.....http://www.paintscratch.com/paintpen.htm
If the scratch isn't that deep or bad this is the best way to get it fixed....you can then polish it.
Anthony
The reason I ask is because you can fill the scratch in with some clear touch up paint and then wetsand it and then polish and wax.
What I recommend though for touch up paint is the auto Touch-Up Pen. It is a felt tipped pen that actually matches your Porsche color and is super easy to use. You can go here to get one.....http://www.paintscratch.com/paintpen.htm
If the scratch isn't that deep or bad this is the best way to get it fixed....you can then polish it.
Anthony
#7
This is a re-post of a post I did in the Boxster area.
Client called me about his Boxster S being keyed and asked me if I could fix it because a re-paint on Lapis blue is difficult to match up.
Knowing that I could feel a portion of it with my nail meant that that area could not be totally fixed but I knew I could lighten up its appearance. The other remaing portion would most likely be removed.
I also knew I had to wetsand the area. I used 2500 grit sanding paper and began sanding down the area until no gloss could be seen. I used plenty of soapy water in the sanding to act as a lubricant. With the sanding done the area now looks like this....
Looks pretty harsh eh? You can notice that the scratch is still slightly visible. I could of went a bit further in the wetsanding but that may of been risky as I still need to buff the paint to remove the sanding scratches....and in doing so I'll also remove a micro layer of paint which means that if I go to far with the wetsanding I may burn through the remaining paint during the buffing process
Now the polishing process begins. I started with a wool pad, my rotary polisher and a new compound called Optimum Hyper Compound. It removed the majority of the scratches but the wool pad left behind swirl marks. I then switched from the wool pad to an orange foam "power pad" and again my rotary (never taking the rotary above 1500 rpm's) but this time Optimum Polish was used. This combo removed the remaining sanding marks and also the swirls. I then used Optimum Polish again with a fine foam finishing pad, reduced the rpm's down to around 1000 and set out to make the fender look like glass. Optimum Polish is very unique in that it never dries out and this means that a liquid barrier is constant between the polishing pad and the paint which in turn means less heat and friction but more burnishing capabilities.
Spray on some Optimum spray wax and we are finished.....here are the results.
So if you are keyed all may not be lost if you can find a knowledgable professional detailer in your area.
Thanks for allowing me to share,
Anthony
Client called me about his Boxster S being keyed and asked me if I could fix it because a re-paint on Lapis blue is difficult to match up.
Knowing that I could feel a portion of it with my nail meant that that area could not be totally fixed but I knew I could lighten up its appearance. The other remaing portion would most likely be removed.
I also knew I had to wetsand the area. I used 2500 grit sanding paper and began sanding down the area until no gloss could be seen. I used plenty of soapy water in the sanding to act as a lubricant. With the sanding done the area now looks like this....
Looks pretty harsh eh? You can notice that the scratch is still slightly visible. I could of went a bit further in the wetsanding but that may of been risky as I still need to buff the paint to remove the sanding scratches....and in doing so I'll also remove a micro layer of paint which means that if I go to far with the wetsanding I may burn through the remaining paint during the buffing process
Now the polishing process begins. I started with a wool pad, my rotary polisher and a new compound called Optimum Hyper Compound. It removed the majority of the scratches but the wool pad left behind swirl marks. I then switched from the wool pad to an orange foam "power pad" and again my rotary (never taking the rotary above 1500 rpm's) but this time Optimum Polish was used. This combo removed the remaining sanding marks and also the swirls. I then used Optimum Polish again with a fine foam finishing pad, reduced the rpm's down to around 1000 and set out to make the fender look like glass. Optimum Polish is very unique in that it never dries out and this means that a liquid barrier is constant between the polishing pad and the paint which in turn means less heat and friction but more burnishing capabilities.
Spray on some Optimum spray wax and we are finished.....here are the results.
So if you are keyed all may not be lost if you can find a knowledgable professional detailer in your area.
Thanks for allowing me to share,
Anthony