Don't break the bank but no Walmart specials. I need a decent fool proof buffer/polisher that won't burn the paint.

I usually use Meguiars Gold Class if that makes a difference.

BTW, I have a Craftsman Buffer that is not random and basically has one speed but it is so fast that it burns the paint around the edges very easily. I used it on my last car with small but bad results. Do the random orbital/variable speed options keep this from happening or will I have the same problems?

 

I've been using the Porter Cable 7424 for about three years. It makes life easy! Also makes detailing the car easy too. Pretty much idiot proof. Don't know how one could really do alot of damage. I paid a couple hundred, but hear you can find them cheaper these days. I detailed a neighbors BMW and he paid me $175, so it almost paid for itself!

Cheers,
Robert

 

This one?

Here

 

Dat be da one! Pretty groovy price too.

R

 

How can anyone argue with RJT on the matter of orbital polishers? He has more trophies than Carter has liver pills

But... PC does not make a 220 volt for use in Europe. So I bought a Bosch PEX 400 AE instead. (On Graham's recommendation, RLer too) Somewhat of a bargain and works well. The AE desig is crucial; this gives it the orbital swing

Check their website. Good luck

 

Thanks for the tips. I just picked up the PC 7336 from Lowes. It was cheaper, $109 and no shipping fees, plus I had a $50 gift card so it made it real cheap. According to Autopia.com the 7336 is the same as the PC 7424 but comes with different attachements in the box. Since the consensus on Autopia is that the pad the 7424 or 7336 comes with should be discarded, I also ordered the starter pad kit from Exceldetail.com.

Initial plan is:

1) Wash with good mit and decent auto shampoo
2) Claybar the car
3) Use 3M Hand Glaze with the Porter-Cable and Excel Bluepad. I assume it's Random Orbital Safe. Doesn't say on the bottle one way or the other.
4) Either Meguiar's Gold Class or Zymol to seal with Porter-Cable and Excel Grey Pad.
5) Question: should I remove the wax with the PC and a wool pad or hand remove with micro-fiber cloth?

Please recomend changes to the above. The reason for the Glaze and wax choice is b/c that's what I have on hand. I've never used the 3M before but have heard several raves.

The car:

1986 Porsche 944 Turbo. Painted 84R/H8 1996 Arena Red two years ago. Car has seen less than a 1,000 miles since paint job.


Sorry for all the questions but I'm a newbie to the machine process. Have always done by hand and am hoping the PC will make my cars look even better.

 

Your process sounds about right.

Don't worry about the wax: if you stick with the process as described, there won't be any left.

PC use: GO SLOW Slow speed and light weight. Motion is north/south then over the same area in east/west.

Good luck.

 

I usually use the PC to remove the wax. But, what I do is lay a micro-fiber towel down on the car and then set the buffer down on it. Comes off easy and fast and I can change to a clean towel when it gets "loaded".
Personaly, I would use any wax except Zymol. Maybe because I worked for them and I know what overpriced snake oil it is. Plus it won't last near as long as Meg's or P21 (my favorite, right now).
Let us know how it turns out....

Robert

 

This is funny... I've used the same adjectives to describe their stuff. (overpriced... snake oil)

Detailing is more about process than products. Many product pushers take Porker owners for idiots. IMO of course.

 

Thanks so much for the replies. If given time this weekend I'll give it a go and post pictures for your descretion.