New here and new to Porsches. Looking for advice. I purchased my 2019 Cayenne Turbo on Tuesday and was driving it back home on Thursday when it threw a “Reduced Engine Power Permitted to Drive” code along with a “Low Oil Level Add 2.1 Quarts” code.
I called my dealer and added 2 quarts of Full Synthetic W30 (best they had at the gas station). This took out the “Low Oil Level code” but the other remained. After speaking with the dealership, I decided to drive the car home to Boise in limp mode for around 200 miles. I monitored engine and oil temps the whole way through - engine temp stayed at 194-7 the whole time, and oil temps reached 122 at the highest and then dropped. I was stuck in the middle of nowhere between Nevada and Oregon. It was the most excruciating drive of my life. I could barely do 30 on the uphill sections.
The next day I took the car to Porsche of Boise and they said they couldn’t even diagnose it without an appointment, and the earliest available is 01/29. Interestingly, I was able to drive the car pretty normally to Porsche of Boise, because it seemed to drive fine after a cold start but started vibrating above 2k rpm on the way back home. It seems the car is vibrating after warming up. I’m stumped. Later upon being advised by the dealer I purchased the vehicle from, I took it to Eurosport in Boise. Just as I was pulling up to their shop a new error message showed up “Engine Control Fault”. Eurosport also couldn’t check the car until Monday 01/22. I very slowly drive the car back home and parked it. I’ve barely put 700 miles on the car. It’s currently sitting in my garage and I am worried about what might be wrong with it. It’s also throwing the Start/Stop Error code, but I’m told that’s standard if the engine goes into limp mode.
I get the low oil message on my Turbo twice every 10k miles. I drive in sport plus with high rpm’s 70% of the time though, its a bit annoying to have to go to the dealer every 4k miles for top up
Not yet. Dealer still has the option open for me to take the extended warranty. Since it’s within 7 days of purchase. I didn’t initially take it. Didn’t have an extra $8200 lying around right now.
I get the low oil message on my Turbo twice every 10k miles. I drive in sport plus with high rpm’s 70% of the time though, its a bit annoying to have to go to the dealer every 4k miles for top up
I did make a couple of fast pulls right before the low engine oil showed up. But nothing major. I got excited about the new car.
Agree on the question: How many miles on this car?
Two quarts low, less than 7 days after you purchased it, is a big red flag in my view.
Something is wrong with this car. Obvious, but bears repeating. Do not take this car on a long journey until you know what is going on. Take it to AutoZone or Advance Auto, etc and have them scan codes for free, and post them here.
Agree on the question: How many miles on this car?
Two quarts low, less than 7 days after you purchased it, is a big red flag in my view.
Something is wrong with this car. Obvious, but bears repeating. Do not take this car on a long journey until you know what is going on. Take it to AutoZone or Advance Auto, etc and have them scan codes for free, and post them here.
Thank you to all.
One owner car, very high net worth individual. Always serviced on time at Porsche. Absolutely pristine on the inside and out. 61k miles. Purchased from a very reputable and highly rated dealership.
Dealer didn’t have a 7-day return policy. At least it wasn’t mentioned during the transaction. I trusted that the vehicle was good given their reputation. Dealer has offered to pay to have the car fixed.
Just limped to O’Reilly’s and pulled codes.
P0305, P2279, P0300, P0308, P0307, P0306, P016A, P0305.
Seems like she’s misfiring on at least 4 cylinders. Plus there’s an intake leak. I’m stumped by the P016A.
The earliest a shop will take me is Monday/Tuesday at Eurosport, Boise. Porsche of Boise just turned me away without even pulling codes, gave me an appointment, and asked me to come back on 01/29. I’m very disappointed in that.
One owner, dealer maintained with 61k miles. And lots of codes.
The facts are not adding up yet. It doesn't make sense.
MBs often change their personality (codes go away) when replacing the battery. Modern German cars need 100% perfect electrical systems to perform as expected.
A 2019 with 61k miles arguably needs its battery changed. 4 years is the start of the window where I preemptively change the battery. Early 9Y0 like your sadly has the POS battery which costs $3k to have the dealer replace. Battery by itself is around $2k, replacement is a 20 minute DIY job, then registration is a 10 minute DIY job if you have an OBD tool.
Replacing the battery would rule out that issue, and would be reasonable routine maintenance for a car entering its adolescent years.
One owner, dealer maintained with 61k miles. And lots of codes.
The facts are not adding up yet. It doesn't make sense.
MBs often change their personality (codes go away) when replacing the battery. Modern German cars need 100% perfect electrical systems to perform as expected.
A 2019 with 61k miles arguably needs its battery changed. 4 years is the start of the window where I preemptively change the battery. Early 9Y0 like your sadly has the POS battery which costs $3k to have the dealer replace. Battery by itself is around $2k, replacement is a 20 minute DIY job, then registration is a 10 minute DIY job if you have an OBD tool.
Replacing the battery would rule out that issue, and would be reasonable routine maintenance for a car entering its adolescent years.
Thanks Chassis! I think I remember seeing on the CARFAX that the battery was replaced around 50k miles. I’ll confirm. Also, CARFAX has records of all regular maintenance. I’m very surprised too. I’m hoping it’s either the HPFP or injectors. It seems a fuel system issue to me or it could also be bad coils but the 5, 6, 7, 8 sequence surprises me. If it were a bad coil, I’d have expected a bank like 1, 3, 5, 7 to misfire.
I got that same "Engine Control Fault -- Driving Permitted" warning on my Turbo GT while on a 500 mile trip. The problem was a defective exhaust sensor; cure was replacing it. In this mode, several features such as Cruise Control were unavailable. Check engine light went on, as well.
I might add this: Once you get the fault codes sorted, consider an oil change. Your EA825 engine is susceptible to Low Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI). It is orders of magnitude worse than simple engine knock— think of a sledgehammer slamming down on a piston. It can destroy your engine. Porsche calls for C40 spec oil which will help prevent LSPI.
Not sure what kind of oil you topped off with, but oils with high levels of calcium detergents can cause LSPI.
I might add this: Once you get the fault codes sorted, consider an oil change. Your EA825 engine is susceptible to Low Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI). It is orders of magnitude worse than simple engine knock— think of a sledgehammer slamming down on a piston. It can destroy your engine. Porsche calls for C40 spec oil which will help prevent LSPI.
Not sure what kind of oil you topped off with, but oils with high levels of calcium detergents can cause LSPI.
Schnave thank you so much my friend! But you have me worried now. When I called the dealer while stuck in the middle of nowhere they said use any full synthetic so I topped off with 2 quarts of Valvoline full synthetic w30. I specifically asked for the type of oil on the call and let them know I used w30. Dealer said it was ok. Then drove it around 260 miles home. It’s been driven another 10 miles ish since I got here, to and from the shops that refused to take me in for diagnosis because they’re apparently slammed.
Now that you say it, I think the car is currently suffering from LSPI. It starts off fine when cold and then starts knocking hard at around 2k rpm 30-35 mph after about 5 mins of driving as soon as it’s warmed up. It even knocks when stopped at a light.
I’m worried about the damage that might’ve already been done to it. I’m scared of what they might find when they open it up at the dealers. This was supposed to be a much happier experience.
Thanks everyone for your input and all the suggestions. I wish I’d posted here instead of calling my dealership when I first saw the CEL.
. . . so I topped off with 2 quarts of Valvoline full synthetic w30. . .
Good news; it looks like Vavoline full synthetic is API-SP certified, meaning it is formulated to protect against LSPI. Regardless, you should still consider changing the oil, as it is the wrong spec and the wrong viscosity for your engine. I keep a quart or two of C40 spec oil on hand for top-offs. I carry a quart in my Cayenne when traveling, as it is generally only available at the dealership and Auto Zones.
Good news; it looks like Vavoline full synthetic is API-SP certified, meaning it is formulated to protect against LSPI. Regardless, you should still consider changing the oil, as it is the wrong spec and the wrong viscosity for your engine. I keep a quart or two of C40 spec oil on hand for top-offs. I carry a quart in my Cayenne when traveling, as it is generally only available at the dealership and Auto Zones.
Schnave! You are a god send! I will keep this in mind. I’m switching out the oil and I’m keeping C40 in my trunk. I just hope that the issue is fixed soon and the dealership takes care of it because I literally just bought the car.
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