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Old 02-09-2018, 06:00 PM
  #346  
edde
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Originally Posted by Cosmo Kramer
Not yet, but I will take a look when I get a chance and look at the rubber bushing inside it. Torque arm is cheap, under $100.
I immediately went out and looked at mine. I'd say the big end bushing could be beat. Curious to know how you ruled out the differential. I mean a big gearbox should be one of the last things to go so it makes
me feel better. In considering every thing I could, tires and bushings have come to mind.
Old 02-09-2018, 06:33 PM
  #347  
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Originally Posted by edde
I immediately went out and looked at mine. I'd say the big end bushing could be beat. Curious to know how you ruled out the differential. I mean a big gearbox should be one of the last things to go so it makes
me feel better. In considering every thing I could, tires and bushings have come to mind.
I ruled it out simply by it not making the noise all the time on decel, and only making the nose for a few seconds then disappearing. Worn pinion bearings usually howl all the time on decel and change pitch with speed.
Old 02-09-2018, 06:39 PM
  #348  
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Originally Posted by garrett376
With a PIWIS, when performing the transfer case oil service function, the wear integrator parameters get reset (all but the roll-over counter) but it also performs a "forced calibration" procedure as well.
Garrett, can you describe the actual steps to do the forced calibration? Apparently the system does some sort of regular calibration routine too. I tried doing the forced calibration using my iCarScan (which has the function..) and wasn't successful. Problem is - their description of how to do it is somewhat vague:




That screen leads to this (the "No Support" message is really cryptic..):




Then we get:



So apparently it didn't do the calibration. That's not a big surprise.. the iCarScan has various tests that require having the vehicle in some state like, engine running, or ignition-on - engine not running, or temperature must be reached for 120 seconds (oil level reading.) The problem I have it it's unclear what this condition has to be. It looks like it has to be with the vehicle going 2MPH or less, with the engine producing less than 100nm of torque. To do this rather obviously will require more than 1 person.

I also question if it's needed - the iCarScan can read out the data from the TC controller - and on mine it showed 820 successful calibrations, 10 unsuccessful calibrations. It appears it periodically does one all by itself.

More on shifting roughness in the next post. The Ravinol may not have been to blame (but out of caution, I'm still recommending the OE fluid..) I was able to reset the oil change indicator on the TC - once I remembered that it has to be done with the ignition on, engine off, then it tells you to turn the ignition off for 5 seconds, then it tells you to turn the ignition back on for 20 seconds.. It then reset the oil wear indicator.
Old 02-09-2018, 06:49 PM
  #349  
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OK - the continued part. Since I had the iCarScan hooked up (latest version of all their software - I'd recently reset the phone and reinstalled the OS - so iCarScan - EZDiag - had no vehicle files..) I decided to do the reset of adaptation values for the transmission.

I suspect part of the problem I experienced in California (and to a lesser amount on the trip back..) may have been due to the driving environment in the San Fernando Valley part of LA. It's continuous stop/go/squirt/crawl/stop/go.. I think it teaches the transmission bad things just due to the utter unpredictability of the driving environment. This is a case where my daughter-in-laws Nissan Leaf makes a lot more sense than a Cayenne Turbo.

So - I reset the transmission adaptations - and so far with limited testing (around the block a few times - I have a head cold and really shouldn't be out of bed..) - it feels very smooth again. Can't feel the shifts. What I was blaming on the transfer case may have been the transmission had learned bad habits, and was expecting the stop/go/squirt driving I did for 3 weeks in SFV/LA.

If you have issues - and have access to an iCarScan, I'd suggest doing this. Dunno if the Durametric performs this function or not, haven't bothered hooking it up.
Old 02-15-2018, 12:33 AM
  #350  
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Don any more updates ? How is transfer case ?
Old 02-15-2018, 03:24 PM
  #351  
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TC issue reported to NHTSA. Everyone join in!
Old 02-15-2018, 05:24 PM
  #352  
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Originally Posted by ndx
Don any more updates ? How is transfer case ?
It's gotten to the point of being hard to judge.. it generally seems smooth. I can feel some shifts - but no lurch or banging. So.. up in the air on it. If it's going to go bad, I just hope it does it before my 100k extended warranty runs out..
Old 02-15-2018, 08:17 PM
  #353  
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Originally Posted by deilenberger
It's gotten to the point of being hard to judge.. it generally seems smooth. I can feel some shifts - but no lurch or banging. So.. up in the air on it. If it's going to go bad, I just hope it does it before my 100k extended warranty runs out..

I will flush mine soon ... I have noise at slown turns ... If flush does not help ... I will rebuild with parts from AWD tech new chain and clutch.
Old 02-16-2018, 01:49 AM
  #354  
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Originally Posted by deilenberger
Garrett, can you describe the actual steps to do the forced calibration? Apparently the system does some sort of regular calibration routine too. I tried doing the forced calibration using my iCarScan (which has the function..) and wasn't successful. Problem is - their description of how to do it is somewhat vague:
I might be misunderstanding your question, but using a PIWIS when the transfer case oil service reset is performed, a Forced Calibration is part of the reset process. It guides one through the process: turn off ignition, turn on engine, and a bit later it is done and the parameters get reset. Separate of the oil service reset, a Forced Calibration can also be performed on its own.
Old 02-16-2018, 03:31 PM
  #355  
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Originally Posted by garrett376
I might be misunderstanding your question, but using a PIWIS when the transfer case oil service reset is performed, a Forced Calibration is part of the reset process. It guides one through the process: turn off ignition, turn on engine, and a bit later it is done and the parameters get reset. Separate of the oil service reset, a Forced Calibration can also be performed on its own.
My question was - the exact steps that have to be taken to do the forced calibration. I know there are several things like this (the transmission adaptations for instance) where the engine has to be on, then off, then back on for the reset to work. The iCarScan tells you some of these - but not all. There are no specific instructions on the transfer case calibration - so..

Turn off ignition
Turn on engine

At what point does the PIWIS tell transfer case controller that it wants a calibration? When do I press the button on the iCarScan that says "Perform Calibration" - which supposedly sends a signal to the transfer case controller to do the forced calibration? What was confusing were the conditions that iCarScan outlined.. (less than 3kph, less than 100Nm torque..) I believe you're doing it with the vehicle stationary?

TIA!

BTW - the point may be moot - since I car scan has reported over 800 calibrations - the vast majority "successful" - and the vehicle has 84,000 miles on it - so it looks as if the Xfer-case controller does calibrations every 100 miles or so anyway.
Old 02-16-2018, 11:27 PM
  #356  
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Newbie here. Can this fluid be a substitute for OEM fluid?

Not sure why it also says transmission fluid on the label

Old 02-17-2018, 01:10 AM
  #357  
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Originally Posted by JM9ISM
Newbie here. Can this fluid be a substitute for OEM fluid?

Not sure why it also says transmission fluid on the label

No idea. Possibly - since it notes the 0.85 liter capacity. It might well BE the Porsche fluid. My question is - is it worth saving $10 to find out? Porsche fluid is now around $45..
Old 02-17-2018, 01:20 AM
  #358  
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Originally Posted by deilenberger
No idea. Possibly - since it notes the 0.85 liter capacity. It might well BE the Porsche fluid. My question is - is it worth saving $10 to find out? Porsche fluid is now around $45..

A guy at Pelican parts told me this is basically a Porsche brand without a label. Part # is : 000-043-301-36-M1199 by the way. They actually didn't carry OEM at the time. So I was debating if I should get this or Ravenol
Old 02-18-2018, 01:58 AM
  #359  
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Originally Posted by JM9ISM
A guy at Pelican parts told me this is basically a Porsche brand without a label. Part # is : 000-043-301-36-M1199 by the way. They actually didn't carry OEM at the time. So I was debating if I should get this or Ravenol
He may very well be correct.. they did have the OE oil when I was there last month and needed it - I picked it up. Guess some other people did too.
Old 02-18-2018, 02:47 AM
  #360  
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IT DID THE JOB!!!!

Mine is 2012 V6 with 72k miles and on the second transfer case.

Replaced it within 10 minutes. Super easy DIY thanks to people in here

Car drive very smooth now.


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