When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I doubt. Have they offered to clean the engine for an hour worth of labor? Yes. Would have they pulled the manifold to do so? I doubt. I can bitch and moan, but I need the car back on the road, so I spent some quality time cleaning everything under the manifold. All 5 broken bolts in the upper section of the front cover came out easily - thankfully they weren't seized nor tight. I cut a slot in 4 I think I had access to from the back while holding them in place from the front. I than used a flathead screwdriver to back them out through the open end (from the manifold side). Last bolt wasn't open on the back so I used a metal pick to stab it and back it out that way.
Now I just need to depressurize the fuel spider so I can swap out that plastic coolant vent tube. Any guidance on this one?
I also verified that I have a locking transfer case.
For depressurizing the fuel line, I just placed several paper towels under the feed / inlet junction and loosened it. It didn't spray out or make a big mess. You could pull the fuel pump fuse if you wanted, but it's not needed. You will spill a little gas any way you try it. Leave the doors shut overnight and any residual pressure in the fuel system will be low if any.
You do want to make sure that upon re-installing, you have a 14mm crows foot to torque the spider junctions back in place. You tighten them to torque, loosen them, then tighten to torque again. This apparently prevents a false tq reading from anything binding.
Things escalated quickly: after an oil change I took the car out to get the oil level reading and after parking it nose up in the driveway. I was greeted with a nice puddle of engine oil where transmission and engine join about 1/2hr later. I started looking researching and noticed a puddle of oil in the V of the engine that appears to be darker than the oil I just put in there. Based on that, I am hoping it isnt RMS that is leaking profusely from vent holes on the bellhousing. I pulled the intake manifold and was greeted with lots of oil. Prior to purchase of the car, I had Porsche perform vario cam bolt recall on the vehicle. I hope that what I'm seeing is the aftermath of leaking valve cover gaskets + upper timing cover gaskets. I also checked the membrane of the ventilation system that sits on top of the driver's valve cover and it appears to be in good shape.
1. I have a coolant vent line on order, as well as updated upper front cover bolts that I will be extracting next - upper 2/3 bolts on each head appear to be broken off and I have an oil leak up front. I was going to cut a slot where they poke out the back and thread them out with a flat head screw driver - is that a good idea or not so much? Never had much luck with those "reverse thread" extractors.
2. I need to gain access to the valley to clean up old oil. The question that I have is how to properly depressurize the fuel rail before removal since the manifold is already off.
3. Also, I crawled under to look at the transfer case with a hope of determining locking vs non locking. It appears to be that mine is locking: there is a box with electric connector going into it on the engine facing side of the TC, pass side of the driveshaft - is my assertion correct?
As a side note, Mahle filter that I purchased for this car did not fit until I trimmed down the cloth part around the opening. For S&G I whipped out my spare oil filter I have for BMW (Mann HU925/4 - $5.5) and compared the 2. I'll leave the pictures below.
Thanks.
Order oil kit from FCPEURO.COM first kit you pay for fully, next one you buy, return the first one and you get refunded full cost, minus the time and money used to ship old oil back.
I doubt. Have they offered to clean the engine for an hour worth of labor? Yes. Would have they pulled the manifold to do so? I doubt. I can bitch and moan, but I need the car back on the road, so I spent some quality time cleaning everything under the manifold. All 5 broken bolts in the upper section of the front cover came out easily - thankfully they weren't seized nor tight. I cut a slot in 4 I think I had access to from the back while holding them in place from the front. I than used a flathead screwdriver to back them out through the open end (from the manifold side). Last bolt wasn't open on the back so I used a metal pick to stab it and back it out that way.
Now I just need to depressurize the fuel spider so I can swap out that plastic coolant vent tube. Any guidance on this one?
I also verified that I have a locking transfer case.
Thanks.
I just did the vent like a week ago. Did not remove the spider. The new y-pipe is very flexible. Just go real slow. Facing the engine, left side pipe first, then start on right and keep going. You'll need to go past the mounting points in front so it's easier to attach the rear of the y-pipe first, then back it up and screw in the front 2 mount points of the y-pipe.
I just did the vent like a week ago. Did not remove the spider. The new y-pipe is very flexible. Just go real slow. Facing the engine, left side pipe first, then start on right and keep going. You'll need to go past the mounting points in front so it's easier to attach the rear of the y-pipe first, then back it up and screw in the front 2 mount points of the y-pipe.
Thanks.
Given that it is a "vent pipe", do I have to bleed the system after this procedure? I was kind of leaning towards revisiting that area again in the near future once I accumulate all parts and tools, but may do the pipe if it doesn't require bleeding and it can be done without touching the fuel spider.
re: FCP - thanks, I am aware, but it isn't worth my time and effort.
That oil filter is correct, and will fit. You just need to press it on there firmly. It is designed on purpose to fit snugly that way; you may have ruined it by trimming it, or using a larger one that doesn't seal properly.
Thanks, I'll try again with Hengst brand filter - Mahle wasn't fitting at all no matter how much I persuaded it in there. I'll probably do a short oil interval for the first couple of oil changes to clean things inside up a bit.
Found out that my front motor cover was missing 5 upper bolts. Got updated bolts, cleaned everything up and reinstalled - fingers crossed it solves the leaking and disappearing oil.
The oil leak seems to be gone. I've been monitoring lower section of the engine around the oil pan / oil filter areas and in the back where the leak originally showed up and it's bone dry. It sure did look like a RMS leak at first, but I'm glad it turned out to be a simple fix.
I decided to leave the vent pipe alone for now and do it together with the rest of the cooling system.
Flushed the transfer case fluid and filled with Ravenoil last weekend. Didn't even have to jack the car, just put it in the highest suspension setting and used a spout that's built into Ravenoil bottles - this was so handy!
This past week, I put on new tires and replaced a non working TPMS with one I picked up on ebay from seller TPMSDeals ($40, HUF brand). After a slow drive around the neighborhood the missing tire pressure showed up on the screen. Very happy about that along with new tires! I went for the same size and plan on getting another set of wheel for those adventure trips to the great outdoors, but so far it is more quite and comfortable for sure.
Few replacements of HVAC vent adjusters arrived this week and they were installed to make sure the interior is complete. Not the best quality replications, but hoping the would break in a bit and slide smoother.
Now I just have to deal with resetting service intervals and intermittent PAS system error that showed up together with ACC/PAC error + no auto start/stop. No CEL lights up, the car still will go into Sport mode, errors come on with ignition on. Waiting for the scanner to show up today to troubleshoot. The car runs fine otherwise with no misfires.
Can also confirm the oil filter should fit with some elbow grease getting it on. The inlet hole of the filter just looks smaller because of the filter paper overlap.
You have what looks like to be an identical 11 CTT as mine, I pray you have many good miles on your T case. Had to replace mine, was out of warranty so $5700 out of pocket
I still love my CTT though
03-06-2023, 09:24 PM
