Thanks, figured as much. I guess I'll redo the gasket while I'm there in case it's that leaking again.

 

I had many lucks using Amsoil in the past for slow leaks.

All BMW E60 M5's leak 1-1.5 quarts/1000 miles. My 2003 MR2 Spyder has been leaking from the oil pan about 1 quart every 500 miles. I just keep adding the cheap Walmart Synthetic oil. The engine loves new oil, so it still gives great power and MPG.

 

wow - driving 10,000 miles a year that's 20 quarts of oil - that' got to be $100 in oil ...might be cheaper to fix it - is your car nicknamed the exxon valdez.. LOL

 

Good one "exxon valdez"

Advantages:

1. No need to drain the old oils every 10-kmiles, just change the filter. So saved 4 quarts which about $20, and saved gas ($2) for not going to recycle center.
2. Saved about $200 to fix the oil pan gasket?

 

I hate to think how your drive looks

Are you saying Amsoil would fix a slow leak?

 

The Spyder has "diaper" underneath, so the oil never leaked out.

Yes, Amsoil had stopped slow leaks in my other cars for valve cover gaskets and differential seals. Similar to this user: https://www.wolverineforums.com/thre...t-to-do.26886/

 

I have 2014 GTS with a leak in the same area (see pic). I know it’s not easy to tell by looking at the picture, but vacuum pump appears to be clean. I also reached with my hand behind the vacuum pump and tried to get some oil with a paper towel - bone dry.

Do you think this is a valve gasket leak? Driver side valve gasket is not leaking, only passenger side towards back of the engine.

 

Broken valve cover screw... check if any are loose!

 

+1^^^^^ - had it start leaking again - one of those garbage aluminum bolts came off when i was loosening it - replaced all on pass with steel

 

I’m pretty sure no one touched valve cover bolts, why would they get broken?

 

true ..it would be odd if no one ever touched them - 10 years of heat and cold could do it though - if the gaskets have never been touched they are most likely due for replacement - as far as the back of the engine ..that just seems to be where it collects and drips from - if you do replace them i'd go ahead and replace the bolts also - whether you use the porsche aluminum or steel is up to you

 

Where to buy steel bolts and how many? Are they M6x30 or M8x35, FCPEuro has both listed for my vehicle. Also, going to order gasket kit from FCPEuro.

Anything else to change while doing valve gaskets?

 

BTW, that leak on my pic is near the rear bolt on the passenger side. I’m in a big trouble if that bolt is broken.

Any pointers on how to get to that one last bolt on the passenger side?

 

i don't remember the size of the screw - i just bought socket head screws and washers at the hardware store - when you are ready to work take one out and match it - that back one is tough - i used some combination of bits, extensions and maybe a bit taped into a gear wrench - 1/4 inch ratchet i think - if you do find broken screws they sometimes can be carefully backed out with a pointed pick - that's the one good thing about them being aluminum

 

I'd use the factory stuff:N 91097101 Steel screw, M6 x 30

99902519330 Aluminium washer

You don't want a steel screw against the magnesium of the valve cover - which is why the aluminum washer is crucial - as it will eventually corrode the valve cover and cost a lot more than using the correct stuff.