Radiator Flaps stuck closed
08-16-2021 | 04:38 PM
#16
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From: Socal
Yep it's a defect, I think
Im going to permanently disable mine,
it shuts and closes when it's not supposed to
makes engine and oil uncomfortably warm, especially when driving through the desserts in summer.
Hopefully there is a cable we can simply disconnect to where it wont shut.. just leave that bloody thing open full time LOL
Im going to permanently disable mine,
it shuts and closes when it's not supposed to
makes engine and oil uncomfortably warm, especially when driving through the desserts in summer.
Hopefully there is a cable we can simply disconnect to where it wont shut.. just leave that bloody thing open full time LOL
08-16-2021 | 04:42 PM
#17
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From: Los Angeles, Ca
08-23-2021 | 11:28 PM
#19
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From: KLAS
Just had this problem on my trip back from visiting Zion and Bryce Canyon up in UT. Didn't really notice temperatures going above 200 degrees since the weather was in the low to mid 60's, but as soon as I got back to triple digit temps, the temperature gauge started to cycle from its normal 200 degree reading all the way up to pegging the coolant temp, as well as oil being significantly hot (275 max). AC was struggling to keep things cool as well.
Got home and whaddya know, radiator flaps were closed. Opened them up manually for the time being, but noticed they didn't close when I shut the engine off. I'll make an appointment with the dealer sometime soon to alleviate since I think I'm still under some sort of warranty from the Dieselgate scandal...
Got home and whaddya know, radiator flaps were closed. Opened them up manually for the time being, but noticed they didn't close when I shut the engine off. I'll make an appointment with the dealer sometime soon to alleviate since I think I'm still under some sort of warranty from the Dieselgate scandal...
08-23-2021 | 11:40 PM
#20
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From: Los Angeles, Ca
Just had this problem on my trip back from visiting Zion and Bryce Canyon up in UT. Didn't really notice temperatures going above 200 degrees since the weather was in the low to mid 60's, but as soon as I got back to triple digit temps, the temperature gauge started to cycle from its normal 200 degree reading all the way up to pegging the coolant temp, as well as oil being significantly hot (275 max). AC was struggling to keep things cool as well.
Got home and whaddya know, radiator flaps were closed. Opened them up manually for the time being, but noticed they didn't close when I shut the engine off. I'll make an appointment with the dealer sometime soon to alleviate since I think I'm still under some sort of warranty from the Dieselgate scandal...
Got home and whaddya know, radiator flaps were closed. Opened them up manually for the time being, but noticed they didn't close when I shut the engine off. I'll make an appointment with the dealer sometime soon to alleviate since I think I'm still under some sort of warranty from the Dieselgate scandal...
Spoiler
08-25-2021 | 09:47 PM
#22
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From: KLAS
Dropped the pig off at the dealer this morning. Looks like it's gonna be covered under warranty as mine doesn't expire until December.
What's weird is that the flaps stayed open for the entire drive. However, I did show the service advisor the codes I pulled from the ECU, and did verify the codes were still there so they couldn't try and pull a fast one saying they couldn't find anything wrong. We'll see how it goes.
What's weird is that the flaps stayed open for the entire drive. However, I did show the service advisor the codes I pulled from the ECU, and did verify the codes were still there so they couldn't try and pull a fast one saying they couldn't find anything wrong. We'll see how it goes.
08-25-2021 | 10:31 PM
#23
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From: Los Angeles, Ca
Dropped the pig off at the dealer this morning. Looks like it's gonna be covered under warranty as mine doesn't expire until December.
What's weird is that the flaps stayed open for the entire drive. However, I did show the service advisor the codes I pulled from the ECU, and did verify the codes were still there so they couldn't try and pull a fast one saying they couldn't find anything wrong. We'll see how it goes.
What's weird is that the flaps stayed open for the entire drive. However, I did show the service advisor the codes I pulled from the ECU, and did verify the codes were still there so they couldn't try and pull a fast one saying they couldn't find anything wrong. We'll see how it goes.
GOOD
I noticed that my flaps stayed open whilst driving local on surface streets under 50 miles an hour... but if I got on the freeway going 70 or 80 for more than 10 min, well that's when they liked to shut and close on their own when they shouldn't. Engine got really warm really fast at uncomfortable levels.
I really got tired of pulling over every 20 miles and manually force opening the radiator shutters with my hand
this is obviously a sensor defect and not a mechanical issue because they seem to open and close on command when it is told to do so by the sensor.
I was not interested in diagnosing the science behind the problem let alone pay $2400 fixing it
I ended up having a mechanic drill a screw into my flaps to where they are permanently stuck open. Saved me $$$$ from fixing an issue for a feature that is not relevant here in the Southland and many other parts of the world.
Last edited by 2015CayenneS; 08-25-2021 at 10:33 PM.
08-30-2021 | 04:53 PM
#24
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From: Houston, Texas area
Dropped the pig off at the dealer this morning. Looks like it's gonna be covered under warranty as mine doesn't expire until December.
What's weird is that the flaps stayed open for the entire drive. However, I did show the service advisor the codes I pulled from the ECU, and did verify the codes were still there so they couldn't try and pull a fast one saying they couldn't find anything wrong. We'll see how it goes.
What's weird is that the flaps stayed open for the entire drive. However, I did show the service advisor the codes I pulled from the ECU, and did verify the codes were still there so they couldn't try and pull a fast one saying they couldn't find anything wrong. We'll see how it goes.
I've had similar high water temp symptoms a couple of times (but very intermittent, and mostly at idle on hot days) - my indy just confirmed my flaps are stuck closed as well (got cayenne to him before I thought to check the flaps issue myself).
Hoping they can get it down to a "sensor replacement" rather than a "pull whole front bumper to replace entire flap assembly" issue. I have Fidelity aftermarket warranty, but not sure if it covers this, and would have to exceed my deductible to need it in any case. Will find out soon...
08-30-2021 | 06:14 PM
#25
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From: KLAS
Just out of curiosity, what code were you getting? Did it trigger a dash light, or only saw it with a code reader?
I've had similar high water temp symptoms a couple of times (but very intermittent, and mostly at idle on hot days) - my indy just confirmed my flaps are stuck closed as well (got cayenne to him before I thought to check the flaps issue myself).
Hoping they can get it down to a "sensor replacement" rather than a "pull whole front bumper to replace entire flap assembly" issue. I have Fidelity aftermarket warranty, but not sure if it covers this, and would have to exceed my deductible to need it in any case. Will find out soon...
I've had similar high water temp symptoms a couple of times (but very intermittent, and mostly at idle on hot days) - my indy just confirmed my flaps are stuck closed as well (got cayenne to him before I thought to check the flaps issue myself).
Hoping they can get it down to a "sensor replacement" rather than a "pull whole front bumper to replace entire flap assembly" issue. I have Fidelity aftermarket warranty, but not sure if it covers this, and would have to exceed my deductible to need it in any case. Will find out soon...
Here's the codes I got when I scanned the ECU:
23595 - Active Grille Air Shutter Control: Circuit Range/Performance
14745 - Active Grille Air Shutter: Control Circuit Low
23599 - Active Grille Air Shutter: Stuck On
They also noted that one of the shrouds that keep air going across the radiator had been damaged; that they won't cover since it was most likely my fault. Said it was around $140 to replace, I went ahead and authorized the repair since they were going to have it all apart in the first place.
Last edited by BrewDude; 08-31-2021 at 01:42 AM.
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dbonds (08-30-2021)
09-02-2021 | 12:59 PM
#26
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From: Houston, Texas area
The discrepancy did not trigger a CEL. Only reason I knew there was an issue was by the coolant temperature erratically cycling from normal to off scale high, the oil temperature reading excessively high, and the air conditioning not cooling for squat. I did pull codes from the ECU beforehand and showed to the dealer what I pulled; they confirmed the codes were there and are replacing the flap assembly under what's left of my CPO.
Here's the codes I got when I scanned the ECU:
23595 - Active Grille Air Shutter Control: Circuit Range/Performance
14745 - Active Grille Air Shutter: Control Circuit Low
23599 - Active Grille Air Shutter: Stuck On
They also noted that one of the shrouds that keep air going across the radiator had been damaged; that they won't cover since it was most likely my fault. Said it was around $140 to replace, I went ahead and authorized the repair since they were going to have it all apart in the first place.
Here's the codes I got when I scanned the ECU:
23595 - Active Grille Air Shutter Control: Circuit Range/Performance
14745 - Active Grille Air Shutter: Control Circuit Low
23599 - Active Grille Air Shutter: Stuck On
They also noted that one of the shrouds that keep air going across the radiator had been damaged; that they won't cover since it was most likely my fault. Said it was around $140 to replace, I went ahead and authorized the repair since they were going to have it all apart in the first place.
P05A1 - Active/Static -Radiator louvre:Perform adaptation
P05A3 - Passive/Sporadic - Radiator shutter, implausible state
Mechanics notes are "Checked radiator shutters and they were closed. Attempted to calibrate radiator shutters and they would not calibrate. Inspected wiring to shutter motor as much as possible without removing and it looked good. Moved shutters manually to the open position and attempted calibration again and they did not move and calibration failed. Will need to remove radiator shutter to inspect and possibly replace motor to continue. Vehicle will not overheat with the shutters now open."
I'm having them replace the motor (not whole assembly) - if the motor replacement doesn't fix it, I'll keep them permanently open as well.
Apparently main purpose of the shutters is mileage/efficiency - if vehicle is cool enough, shutters redirect air over car for better efficiency. If warm, they open for better airflow.
09-02-2021 | 02:59 PM
#27
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From: KLAS
Interesting - I'm getting a different set of codes on my issue:
P05A1 - Active/Static -Radiator louvre:Perform adaptation
P05A3 - Passive/Sporadic - Radiator shutter, implausible state
Mechanics notes are "Checked radiator shutters and they were closed. Attempted to calibrate radiator shutters and they would not calibrate. Inspected wiring to shutter motor as much as possible without removing and it looked good. Moved shutters manually to the open position and attempted calibration again and they did not move and calibration failed. Will need to remove radiator shutter to inspect and possibly replace motor to continue. Vehicle will not overheat with the shutters now open."
I'm having them replace the motor (not whole assembly) - if the motor replacement doesn't fix it, I'll keep them permanently open as well.
Apparently main purpose of the shutters is mileage/efficiency - if vehicle is cool enough, shutters redirect air over car for better efficiency. If warm, they open for better airflow.
P05A1 - Active/Static -Radiator louvre:Perform adaptation
P05A3 - Passive/Sporadic - Radiator shutter, implausible state
Mechanics notes are "Checked radiator shutters and they were closed. Attempted to calibrate radiator shutters and they would not calibrate. Inspected wiring to shutter motor as much as possible without removing and it looked good. Moved shutters manually to the open position and attempted calibration again and they did not move and calibration failed. Will need to remove radiator shutter to inspect and possibly replace motor to continue. Vehicle will not overheat with the shutters now open."
I'm having them replace the motor (not whole assembly) - if the motor replacement doesn't fix it, I'll keep them permanently open as well.
Apparently main purpose of the shutters is mileage/efficiency - if vehicle is cool enough, shutters redirect air over car for better efficiency. If warm, they open for better airflow.
Dealer replaced the entire flap assembly with code P05A000 present per the repair order. Servo motor tests were good but appears that something in the linkage caused the failure, but not sure if they went ahead and replaced the motor as one entire flap assembly. In any case, all repairs were covered under warranty.
Last edited by BrewDude; 09-02-2021 at 03:03 PM.
10-15-2021 | 11:09 AM
#28
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From: Virginia
Exact same thing with my 958.2. After reading this thread, I attempted to manually open my shutters. No joy.I can't get them to move at all.
Can someone tell me how they opened them on their car?
Thanks!
Can someone tell me how they opened them on their car?
Thanks!
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chgandhi (06-27-2024)
10-15-2021 | 01:09 PM
#29
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From: Los Angeles, Ca
flaps
perhaps a neighborhood Porsche mechanic could probably figure out a way to open them and them make some kind of alteration to where they permanently stay open as they did mine. They actually drilled a screw into something to make them forced open
10-15-2021 | 01:11 PM
#30
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From: Dover Arkansas
yep saw them... easily accessible by hand, too. I opened them up late last night. Flashlight in hand.
I am going to dive to the mountains and back today and see if my engine temps stay in the normal zone,
Pleasing results are expected now that I've done that.
As far as getting the radiator grill (shutters) motor repaired, I will see about that soon.
I understand why they open and close and if I had to choose one permanent position for them, they would be open.
I live in a warm climate so the engine warms up quickly.
Thanks for your reply
I am going to dive to the mountains and back today and see if my engine temps stay in the normal zone,
Pleasing results are expected now that I've done that.
As far as getting the radiator grill (shutters) motor repaired, I will see about that soon.
I understand why they open and close and if I had to choose one permanent position for them, they would be open.
I live in a warm climate so the engine warms up quickly.
Thanks for your reply