yet another battery thread...do i need one? which one?
01-16-2020, 01:52 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
Nobody's responded, so I'll give it a try. I recently replaced my battery with one purchased from Advance Auto. Did not do any code resetting, just installed and that was it. I've since driven it for a few months, with cold starts ranging from single digit to 75 F. No issues whatsoever. I'm only one data point, but I doubt it's the battery reset issue. Your voltage reading seems fine. What is it with just the accessories turned on, without the engine running? There are myriad other issues that could cause your symptoms, so best bet would be getting a code reader like ICarSoft or ICarScan to read out the error codes that cause the CEL.
01-16-2020, 09:45 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
well, since i've had the battery and spark plugs replaced , i've experienced the following:
1> after not driving for a coupleof days and staying out in 40deg weather, the car started, but then wasn't idling correctly. Check Engine and PSM failure messages popped up.
TUrning the car off and turning it back on again , car fired up fine, idled fine, messages went away.
Haven't seen this show up in the past 10 days.
2> The voltage reading at start up reads around 13.4V and steadily climbs to 14.8V most of the time. Some times, it hovers around 13.8V. (Non-sport mode)
Do I have a bad battery perhaps? Or is this because the battery isn't coded in at the gateway?
Thoughts?
1> after not driving for a coupleof days and staying out in 40deg weather, the car started, but then wasn't idling correctly. Check Engine and PSM failure messages popped up.
TUrning the car off and turning it back on again , car fired up fine, idled fine, messages went away.
Haven't seen this show up in the past 10 days.
2> The voltage reading at start up reads around 13.4V and steadily climbs to 14.8V most of the time. Some times, it hovers around 13.8V. (Non-sport mode)
Do I have a bad battery perhaps? Or is this because the battery isn't coded in at the gateway?
Thoughts?
I did not have my battery "coded" and I have had no issues and the battery was swapped a few years ago.
With the battery out and assuming not 12v power to the systems, I think it takes a few warmup cycles for all of the adaptations to find their happy place. I am no expert on this.
Last things touched is where I go hunting:
- are you certain that the correct spark plugs were installed?
- were they torqued to the correct amount?
- Were the coil packs seated and the aluminum fastner installed correctly and to the correct torque (these are those wonderful fasteners that are designed to break if over torqued).
- Try releasing and reseating each coil pack wire harness connector
When you had the coil packs out, any visible cracks, etc?
01-17-2020, 12:28 AM
#33
Nobody's responded, so I'll give it a try. I recently replaced my battery with one purchased from Advance Auto. Did not do any code resetting, just installed and that was it. I've since driven it for a few months, with cold starts ranging from single digit to 75 F. No issues whatsoever. I'm only one data point, but I doubt it's the battery reset issue. Your voltage reading seems fine. What is it with just the accessories turned on, without the engine running? There are myriad other issues that could cause your symptoms, so best bet would be getting a code reader like ICarSoft or ICarScan to read out the error codes that cause the CEL.
Aye, i'll pull the codes soon as i can find where i stashed my icarscan :P
How old is the car and how many miles please?
I did not have my battery "coded" and I have had no issues and the battery was swapped a few years ago.
With the battery out and assuming not 12v power to the systems, I think it takes a few warmup cycles for all of the adaptations to find their happy place. I am no expert on this.
Last things touched is where I go hunting:
- are you certain that the correct spark plugs were installed?
- were they torqued to the correct amount?
- Were the coil packs seated and the aluminum fastner installed correctly and to the correct torque (these are those wonderful fasteners that are designed to break if over torqued).
- Try releasing and reseating each coil pack wire harness connector
When you had the coil packs out, any visible cracks, etc?
I did not have my battery "coded" and I have had no issues and the battery was swapped a few years ago.
With the battery out and assuming not 12v power to the systems, I think it takes a few warmup cycles for all of the adaptations to find their happy place. I am no expert on this.
Last things touched is where I go hunting:
- are you certain that the correct spark plugs were installed?
- were they torqued to the correct amount?
- Were the coil packs seated and the aluminum fastner installed correctly and to the correct torque (these are those wonderful fasteners that are designed to break if over torqued).
- Try releasing and reseating each coil pack wire harness connector
When you had the coil packs out, any visible cracks, etc?
Yup, replaced the spark plugs with OEM ones bought from SUnset Porsche. Bought them based on VIN number.
Yup.. all torqued to 29Nm.
Don't think I torqued down the aluminum fastner for the coil packs.
No cracks on any of the coil packs.
01-17-2020, 12:49 PM
#34
I have a '12 CS with 49k miles and still on original battery (8.5 years and cranking). With the key on 2nd position engine not running, it still reads 12.4V. However, I do trickle charge it as we only drive it for 5k miles a year on average. The dealer near me charges $329 for battery replacement.
01-17-2020, 05:16 PM
#35
Rennlist Member
For what it is worth, at 74,000 miles, the dealer was pulling codes for an EVAP leak, fixed it and then found a fault code stored for a #3 cylinder misfire. They swapped the #1 and #3 cylinder coil packs and the fault code followed the coil pack to #1. New coil pack went in and no fault codes. When my major tuneup no fault codes stored) came up at 81,000, new plugs went in along with 7 new coil packs.
As far as torque value for the coil pack hold down bolts go, it is minimal... 10 Nm or about 7.5 ftlbs.
As far as torque value for the coil pack hold down bolts go, it is minimal... 10 Nm or about 7.5 ftlbs.