As others have said, go look at some Cayennes, and take them on a test drive. Get a feel for the difference between a base 6 cyl and a S or higher 8 cyl. There is a huge range in original sticker prices for different models with different options. I found a 2011 Turbo, loaded ($125K sticker) with 84K miles for $27.5K. If I remember correctly there were Cayennes that initially sold for half that price, with similar miles for almost as much. So for a few dollars more, you might be pleasantly surprised what kind of options you can get. Do your homework on all the available options, including things like the different styles of wheels that Cayennes were sold with. https://www.stuttcars.com/technical/option-codes/958/

Take your time and the right Cayenne will come along. Bookmark your searches with all the use car sites... Porsche, Cars.com, Autotrader, Carfax, Craigslist, etc., and check back frequently for new listings.

 

thx for the sound advide!

 

TV911, was that CTT in flagstaff? I saw that one and quite a few good deals on 2011 Turbos with 80-100k miles. I was a little scared of the higher maintenance costs plus higher frequency of tickets I'd get.

 

lol re: higher freq of tickets..

the more i read about the maintenance issues etc. on the forums, the more i'm getting wary of 80K+ miles deals..

may be i should shell out the average of $2K/10000 miles (or per later model year) more and stick to <70K miles

i do wanna cap my max budget at $25Kish (preferably $20Kish) and mileage at 100Kish (preferably 60Kish), but am relatively open across trims..

that combo is yielding a very wide net of disparate possibilities.. and i don't have the bandwidth to try out every option in person before i shortlist (some are 1-2 hrs of drive away and are open only during work hours) and/or get a PPI done on each car that fits the range, before i shortlist 2 or 3 cars.. perhaps i should tighten up my range a bit more..

 

Quick question: what was the original asking price from the dealer and how did you manage to get to that price with CPO?
Thanks!

 

One price dealer. They refused to negotiate on the low-ball trade offer they made for my 2010 Cayenne so I just purchased it outright - screwing them over on any financing as well.

 

Same deal with my 14 CD. I bought it with 81k CPO for $29k from a no-haggle one-price dealer in may. It still had 3 mos of factory warranty from the diesel extension, so my 2 years kicked in in August.

 

so, just thought i'll post an update about my cayenne quest here.. hoping it might benefit others who r in the used car purchase rung too..





the orig 1-owner cayenne that i started this for was sold, to some lucky owner... taking my quest to square one.. after 3 failed pre-purchase inspections n tons of time spent test driving the cars and then driving them out for pre-purchase inspection at my trusted porsche indie mech, who was a golden find, i'm now much the wiser in terms of what to specifically look for during a test drive..





car #1 2005 cayenne s with ~75K miles on it; 1 owner; listed for $10.5K; in mint condition cosmetically.. drives ok albeit a bit perked up.. but, issues with leaking transmission fluid, which per my mech needs the whole transmission to be taken out in the first place in order then to be able to diagnose n troubleshoot the issue; a solid $2-3K expense to boot, and then unknown amount to fix anything broken; vehicle obd indicator history has been completely wiped out; so could not tell what the service intervals were, what may hv failed n been replaced earlier, etc.... dealer claimed they will fix it and give a 2-month to 6-month warranty if i put a deposit down, but it's a dingy shop and wasn't sure enuf of their expertise to be able to properly fix it..




car #2 2004 cayennse with 54k miles on it (!!); 2 owners; listed for $13k; in near mint condition cosmetically; drives better than the 2005 one.. but mech found issue with the front differential; to reproduce: turn steering all the way to one end, start going in circles slowly at first n at increasing speed as much as u cn handle.. if u hear or feel a rattle on the steering, that's a big red flag.. per my mech, someone who possibly didn't know what the offroad mode is for perhaps may hv used it on a dry pavement... dealer, who earlier threatened to call the cops on me if don't return the car from the PPI ASAP - (had 1 hr drive time to my mech, 2 hrs of inspection time, and 1 hr of drv back.. so 4 hrs of PPI is all it takes for the dealer to start doubting ur intentions - demanded to see the inspection report so they can file a warranty claim to their seller who they bought the car from (!!!)




after the abpve 2, i have given up hope on cheaping out on a older model low mileage deal.. now onto newer models

car #3




car #3 2013 cayenne base ~75k miles on it; listed for $21k; in near mint condition cosmetically; drives much better than both previous two.. test drove it to look for transfer case issue indications - ground stop to 50 mph, pedal down to the metal etc.. checked for differential in an empty parking lot, drives ok on highway etc.. but mech found subtle stutter in 3rd gear (a clear xfer case issue) and showed it to me with him driivng n me in the passenger seat.. once he showed it to me, i cud not miss it again.. upon mentioning the xfer case issue, the dealer simply refunded my security deposit and waved me out.. nt a word.. guessing he already knew about it n is just looking for some vulnerable buyer who would just buy it based on the excellent cosmetic condition, low miles, etc.. and/or is hoping that whoever does the PPI misses the xfer case issue..





car #4 2014 cayenne base - 112K miles; listed for $20k; carfax mentions 'accident/damage'.. dealer shrugs it off claiming it's not a moving accident - "some headlight got bumped or something while parked or taking it out the garage'.. car now in great cosmetic condition.. tests out OK for both the differential problem and for the xfer case problem during my test drive.. drives fine, albeit a bit rough.. engine has a shrill loud whine when idling.. wheels/tires have an audible 'flap' when driving on a divided road with a median.. dealer claims he doesn't know much about the condition of the wheels/tires/brakes.. yet to be taken out for a PPI




car #5 2014 base platinum - 65k miles; listed for $26k.. car now in perfect cosmetic condition.. new tires n new breaks.. drives awesome tests out OK for both the differential problem and for the xfer case problem during my test drive.. yet to be taken out for a PPI




now i think i got enuf exposure to cayennes to smell out the common major issues (xfer case, differential) during a test drive




i really liked #5 above n wanted to take it out for a PPI, but dealer insists on a purchase agreement before they allow a PPI.. claims the agreement will have a clause making it subject to the dealer fixing any major issues found during PPI.. am worried dealer may take cover under some fine print and refuse to fix issues found by mechanic, might claim they r trivial or not included in the purchase agreement, or worse fix it in a sub-standard way just to be able to claim they fixed it..





so, wary to sign a purchase agreement without a PPI.. am i overthinking this? is a purchase agreement (with a 'dealer will fix problems found' clause) before they send the car out for a PPI a reasonable/standard norm?




any thoughts/insights r much appreciated!!!

 

Aren't all of your purchases "as is" vehicles? A dealer isn't obligated to fix anything when the vehicle is sold as is, are they?

 

Some dealers will offer 30/60/90 day warranties that are limited but if it says AS-IS then yes, it is up to you when it leaves the lot. However you can do a PPI and if you find something, either have them fix it or negotiate a large sum off if not priced in range with the issues at hand.

 

Since I'm not buying off of an auction, unless the listing clearly mentions "as is" (which none of the cars I'm interested in do), while the dealer is not 'obligated' per se to fix anything, just as I'm not obligated to buy it without a PPI, they are indeed obligated to truly list the mechanical condition of the vehicle in detail, especially about any pending major mechanical work, etc.

They cannot just shrug off responsibility for major repairs especially when they claim the vehicle is in 'excellent condition' and 'recently fully serviced' etc. Unfortunately, most dealers do precisely that, and pass of even clearly known major issues to unsuspecting buyers, who get stuck with a seemingly good price at the time of purchase, but not anymore after adding all the repair costs.

This is precisely the reason PPI exists - to find out major issues and call the bluff of the dealers, *before* the purchase. What I did not appreciate on the last car that I looked at, was that the dealer was trying to force me to enter into purchase agreement obligation just based on their loose word (which is exactly worth $0), and preempt me from being able to even evaluate the true condition of the car before buying.

 

It doesn't really matter how the dealer describes the vehicle or if it is listed "as is". The buyer can write their offer with any clause that they feel is needed and the dealer will then either accept it or not.

A dealer can absolutely shrug off responsibility, if vehicle is sold "as is". It is up to the buyer to perform their own due diligence and make a deal dependent upon that research.

I have entered into purchase agreements several times over the years in which I later was able to walk away from the deal. This is because the offer was written with it being contingent upon either a PPI or the dealer fixing x,y,z.. to my satisfaction. It is all in how you word your part of the purchase agreement.

 

So, you are basically saying dealers are free to list their vehicles as in 'Excellent, like-new condition. Fully serviced recently." etc. despite knowing fully well of major existing issues like transfer case repairs, etc. that would cost $5-7K to fix? Legally? Ehitcally?

How? Unless you are a lawyer, or can hire a lawyer? Most buyers just end up having to sign on the purchase agreements drafted by dealers, with all the accompanying fine print, with only leverage in the numbers to be filled in.

You are contradicting urself with this statement; you just stated in your first assertion that it really does not matter how the vehicle is listed, and now you are hedging with 'if vehicle is sold "as is"

Of course! And therein lies the rub with dealers who are too eager to lock the buyer up in a purchase agreement deal (with a million fine prints that can let them escape any issues found), before a PPI, which is a fundamental part of buyer's pre-deal, diligence.

A purchase agreement is a legally binding document. And being typically drafted by the dealers, it has numerous fine prints that allow dealers to easily get away with sub-standard, after-market fixes to any issues found during PPI, and buyers will be stuck with having to buy the vehicle, since dealers have addressed the PPI issues 'on paper'.



I have entered into purchase agreements several times over the years in which I later was able to walk away from the deal. This is because the offer was written with it being contingent upon either a PPI or the dealer fixing x,y,z.. to my satisfaction. It is all in how you word your part of the purchase agreement

 

It isn't really this difficult or confusing.

You won't see a dealer say that a vehicle has zero mechanical issues. They may say that they have checked it over and serviced it, but "servicing" does not mean there are no problems. You will also note that the mandatory federal and state disclosure forms stuck on the window of every used car specifically tells you that you should have the vehicle checked out prior to purchase and that verbal statements are not enforceable.

You do not have to be a lawyer to write a clause into the purchase agreement stating whatever it is that you want added. I have had detailing added to an agreement before, painless dent removal, fluid changes, etc. When I was a service advisor, I knew of a guy who had a meal for 2 at a pricey steak place added into his purchase agreement. Odd, but the sales manager agreed. You are the one with the money. You make the deal good for you. If the dealer refuses to let you even ask for any clauses to be added into the agreement - WALK AWAY.

If the dealer sells it "as is" and you accept a purchase agreement written with that - it does not matter if they know of any defect or not. However, YOU are responsible for writing any clause that you desire into the purchase agreement. If the dealer then accepts your clause(s) you bought it so to speak.

 

Exactly this.

I drove mine hard on street and on highway uptown 100mph. But any high mileage car will show vibrations and such at high speed especially. But you can't expect a brand new car with 80k+ miles in perfect condition. That's 80k of wear. Just get a decent or great visual car without clear xcase issues. Even at that, you still need to change xcase fluid all the time. But point is that the rest is fixable if anything.

I do think that you're overthinking on the 958.